Plus 2 Windscreen corner pieces
12 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Hi.
First post to the group so please bare with me. I'm in the process of recommissioning a 1970 Plus 2 S Federal and am at the joyful front windscreen phase. Read many posts and very useful information about installing the chrome trim and so far, so good. The screen and trim are just sitting in the frame, adjusting to life in preparation for the final install.
One bit of information I haven't been able to find is how best to install the lower corner pieces onto the chrome plastic trim. All material is from SJS, no issues with quality etc. and a call to them indicated that the corner piece is slipped on to the trim, possibly with the aid of a heat gun. Trying to install the piece without a heat gun is near on impossible and I'm nervous about using the heat as it's a one shot deal.
Another suggestion was to trim the glass channel back a bit and slip the corner piece on the main chrome plastic part. That I've tried and result is ok.
Just looking for any other solutions to test before I decide upon a final method, which at this stage will be the trim and slip method.
Cheers,
Steve.
First post to the group so please bare with me. I'm in the process of recommissioning a 1970 Plus 2 S Federal and am at the joyful front windscreen phase. Read many posts and very useful information about installing the chrome trim and so far, so good. The screen and trim are just sitting in the frame, adjusting to life in preparation for the final install.
One bit of information I haven't been able to find is how best to install the lower corner pieces onto the chrome plastic trim. All material is from SJS, no issues with quality etc. and a call to them indicated that the corner piece is slipped on to the trim, possibly with the aid of a heat gun. Trying to install the piece without a heat gun is near on impossible and I'm nervous about using the heat as it's a one shot deal.
Another suggestion was to trim the glass channel back a bit and slip the corner piece on the main chrome plastic part. That I've tried and result is ok.
Just looking for any other solutions to test before I decide upon a final method, which at this stage will be the trim and slip method.
Cheers,
Steve.
- LOTUSTEVE
- New-tral
- Posts: 12
- Joined: 24 Jun 2024
Steve - your post suggests a bonded screen?
..are you sure that's correct for your year? My 1970 Plus 2 S had the rubber seal with stainless steel cover trim and corner pieces, al la Consul Capri. The screen aperture is slightly different to accomodate this set up.
..are you sure that's correct for your year? My 1970 Plus 2 S had the rubber seal with stainless steel cover trim and corner pieces, al la Consul Capri. The screen aperture is slightly different to accomodate this set up.
- jono
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1860
- Joined: 17 May 2007
According to the timeline Federal (US) cars got the bonded windscreen in Jan 1970. It was then fitted later to domestic cars.
https://www.type50.com/?The_Technical_Pages___Timeline
The parts list shows it as from 7001020001N (N = Federal).
https://lotuselan.net/wiki/BA_-_Body_-_Primary_Exterior_%2B2
https://www.type50.com/?The_Technical_Pages___Timeline
The parts list shows it as from 7001020001N (N = Federal).
https://lotuselan.net/wiki/BA_-_Body_-_Primary_Exterior_%2B2
-
draenog - Third Gear
- Posts: 302
- Joined: 26 Dec 2013
Thanks guys, we live and learn
My Plus 2S was a UK car mid 1970, so it ties in with what's posted above.
A chap on called Innes on here restored a JPS + 2 and did a fanntastic thread which explained, inter alia, at some length how he fitted the bonded screen - possibly worth looking up?
Cheers
Jon
My Plus 2S was a UK car mid 1970, so it ties in with what's posted above.
A chap on called Innes on here restored a JPS + 2 and did a fanntastic thread which explained, inter alia, at some length how he fitted the bonded screen - possibly worth looking up?
Cheers
Jon
- jono
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1860
- Joined: 17 May 2007
Mine a late 1970 fitted with the Consul / Capri stainless screen surround.
-
Breezehill - Second Gear
- Posts: 83
- Joined: 09 Oct 2019
So hear's what I'd like to share with the group of my progress to date, some do's and don'ts etc. Thanks for the useful tips and guidance to date. What I've done may or may not be correct but it has predominantly worked for me and happy with the result so far.
Originally, I was going to use Mr. Stanley on the trim for corner pieces but after practice on a spare piece of trim, I felt comfortable enough to use heat to soften the trim enough for the corner piece to slip on with the aid of a couple of tricks.
If you're comfortable, adventurous and\or insane enough to tackle this yourself, it is rewarding in the end. My list of do's and don'ts below.
DO'S
- BE PATIENT. This is not a one day job as many have mentioned
- Although not required all the time, enlist the assistance of another set of hands when you need to.
- Make sure you have all the material and consumables you need ahead of time and readily available.
- Protect your paintwork.
- Think things through multiple times before making cuts, using heat etc. Once done, you can't go back.
- Practice mitre cuts and corner piece installation on the offcuts first. I found a safety razor blade best for the cuts. A little bit of saliva helps with the cut as well.
- Utilize warm weather or shop if possible. They are your friend.
- Clean trim and glass before bonding
- Use the correct stuff for windscreens
DON'TS
- BE IMPATIENT!
- Screw it up LOL!
Now for the pics etc.
Had to clean off paint over old adhesive to get to the bare fiberglass.
Installing A Pillar piping
Tee piece between dash pad and window frame
Dry fit of screen into aperture. I was lucky enough to have a nice warm sunny day where I could mold the trim to the screen without creasing or screwing up the foil inlay. Tape the inside of channel to screen so it set's properly. Let the trim set in this position for a day or two. Big win here!
Open up the inside channel of the corner piece a touch to aid with installation onto the trim. I also took some fine wet and dry to the inside leading edge to remove any burrs and create a small chamfer.
Chamfered the leading edge of the trim as well to aid in assembly
Test assembly on test piece. This is where you master the application of heat from a heat gun. For me it was setting number 2 and heat applied gently from about 6-8 inches away. Just enough to make the plastic pliable. A bit of saliva on the trim and corner piece help too.
+
Corner piece installed showing relief from underside. NOTE! DO NOT install the corner piece fully until you've test fitted the screen as some adjustment may be required. You can always push the trim into the corner piece a bit more but if you have to pull the trim out slightly to achieve the correct look\alignment, you will leave witness marks on the trim. Learnt that the hard way but am able to clean it up, mostly, with some plastic polish. Only the OCD people like myself will notice:) Once you've obtained to correct position of the corner pieces, mark both edges on the trim so you know how far to push them back on for final assembly.
Another tip. Place some tape on the outer corner of the corner piece to protect the paintwork prior to test fitting and use that extra pair of hands if available.
Getting there
Corner protection
Will add to post with a few more pics.
Originally, I was going to use Mr. Stanley on the trim for corner pieces but after practice on a spare piece of trim, I felt comfortable enough to use heat to soften the trim enough for the corner piece to slip on with the aid of a couple of tricks.
If you're comfortable, adventurous and\or insane enough to tackle this yourself, it is rewarding in the end. My list of do's and don'ts below.
DO'S
- BE PATIENT. This is not a one day job as many have mentioned
- Although not required all the time, enlist the assistance of another set of hands when you need to.
- Make sure you have all the material and consumables you need ahead of time and readily available.
- Protect your paintwork.
- Think things through multiple times before making cuts, using heat etc. Once done, you can't go back.
- Practice mitre cuts and corner piece installation on the offcuts first. I found a safety razor blade best for the cuts. A little bit of saliva helps with the cut as well.
- Utilize warm weather or shop if possible. They are your friend.
- Clean trim and glass before bonding
- Use the correct stuff for windscreens
DON'TS
- BE IMPATIENT!
- Screw it up LOL!
Now for the pics etc.
Had to clean off paint over old adhesive to get to the bare fiberglass.
Installing A Pillar piping
Tee piece between dash pad and window frame
Dry fit of screen into aperture. I was lucky enough to have a nice warm sunny day where I could mold the trim to the screen without creasing or screwing up the foil inlay. Tape the inside of channel to screen so it set's properly. Let the trim set in this position for a day or two. Big win here!
Open up the inside channel of the corner piece a touch to aid with installation onto the trim. I also took some fine wet and dry to the inside leading edge to remove any burrs and create a small chamfer.
Chamfered the leading edge of the trim as well to aid in assembly
Test assembly on test piece. This is where you master the application of heat from a heat gun. For me it was setting number 2 and heat applied gently from about 6-8 inches away. Just enough to make the plastic pliable. A bit of saliva on the trim and corner piece help too.
+
Corner piece installed showing relief from underside. NOTE! DO NOT install the corner piece fully until you've test fitted the screen as some adjustment may be required. You can always push the trim into the corner piece a bit more but if you have to pull the trim out slightly to achieve the correct look\alignment, you will leave witness marks on the trim. Learnt that the hard way but am able to clean it up, mostly, with some plastic polish. Only the OCD people like myself will notice:) Once you've obtained to correct position of the corner pieces, mark both edges on the trim so you know how far to push them back on for final assembly.
Another tip. Place some tape on the outer corner of the corner piece to protect the paintwork prior to test fitting and use that extra pair of hands if available.
Getting there
Corner protection
Will add to post with a few more pics.
- LOTUSTEVE
- New-tral
- Posts: 12
- Joined: 24 Jun 2024
Some additional pics here.
Stuff used to bond trim to screen. No affiliation with product. It's what my window guy gave me.
Stuff used to polish chrome trim. Works pretty good. No affiliation here either. It's what I've had lying around for years!
Assembly now resting and setting in place.
Will need to tweak the A pilar trim on both side with a bit of heat to close up the gap.
Like so.
That's it for now. Final phase is to bond the assembly to the car. Getting the pro's to help out with that.
Hoping this is useful to someone in the future.
Cheers,
Steve.
Stuff used to bond trim to screen. No affiliation with product. It's what my window guy gave me.
Stuff used to polish chrome trim. Works pretty good. No affiliation here either. It's what I've had lying around for years!
Assembly now resting and setting in place.
Will need to tweak the A pilar trim on both side with a bit of heat to close up the gap.
Like so.
That's it for now. Final phase is to bond the assembly to the car. Getting the pro's to help out with that.
Hoping this is useful to someone in the future.
Cheers,
Steve.
- LOTUSTEVE
- New-tral
- Posts: 12
- Joined: 24 Jun 2024
Great write up Steve!
Looking forward to seeing and reading the next update.
Your car appears to have an upstand along the bottom of the aperture which the later +2S 130 doesn't have at all so therefore I believe you could if you had wanted to have used a rubber with the small plasti- chrome locking strip. Did you not consider this?....Or was your motivation for going the bonding route originality?
Alan
Looking forward to seeing and reading the next update.
Your car appears to have an upstand along the bottom of the aperture which the later +2S 130 doesn't have at all so therefore I believe you could if you had wanted to have used a rubber with the small plasti- chrome locking strip. Did you not consider this?....Or was your motivation for going the bonding route originality?
Alan
Alan
Currently:-
1971 +2 S130/ 5speed Type 9.
1960 MGA 1600 Mk1 Coupe. 5speed type 9.
Currently:-
1971 +2 S130/ 5speed Type 9.
1960 MGA 1600 Mk1 Coupe. 5speed type 9.
- alanr
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1051
- Joined: 14 Sep 2018
Thanks Alan.
I went with what was originally there. Personally, I prefer the full chrome look too as it ties in with the rest of the chrome that is there and yet to be installed.
Admittedly, rubber trim with chrome insert, like the rear window, would have been much easier.
All part of the character building journey of life.
Cheers.
Steve.
I went with what was originally there. Personally, I prefer the full chrome look too as it ties in with the rest of the chrome that is there and yet to be installed.
Admittedly, rubber trim with chrome insert, like the rear window, would have been much easier.
All part of the character building journey of life.
Cheers.
Steve.
- LOTUSTEVE
- New-tral
- Posts: 12
- Joined: 24 Jun 2024
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