Lotus Elan

Rear Damper Top Nut Question

PostPost by: jbeach » Sat Mar 17, 2018 3:23 am

Dear Rear Suspension Experts,

I am about to install new Koni dampers I purchased from TTR. My old red Konis had a slotted nut at the top with a cotter pin to keep it from loosening. As you can see, these new ones have a relatively thin nut at the top with a fairly thick lock washer.
46273d2a-d36b-4cbf-a921-548b8a374c98.jpeg and

It looks to me like the Lotocones are designed to allow for some movement of the dampers, which makes me worry the nut/lock washer arrangement will loosen over time.

Should I be worried? Should I put a second locking nut on top of the first one? Other ideas?

A slotted nut with pin will not work because damper adjustment is accomplished via a thin rod the goes through the center of the damper shaft.

Many thanks!

-John
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PostPost by: AussieJohn » Sat Mar 17, 2018 6:38 am

Would there be enough threaded shaft through the lotocone to put the old slotted nut first then use the new nut as a locknut The original nut is shaped to centre the shaft in the lotocone
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Sat Mar 17, 2018 7:12 am

TTR normally provide a top hat sleeve to centre the shaft in the lotocone

cheers
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PostPost by: oldelanman » Sat Mar 17, 2018 9:07 am

TTR used to send out instructions with the dampers.
See paragraph 7 ......
TTR KONI SHEET.pdf
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PostPost by: Craven » Sat Mar 17, 2018 11:01 am

Thick washer shown is a LOCKING washer, but it?s all very much a compromise on the original fitment to the Lotocone itself.
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PostPost by: jbeach » Sat Mar 17, 2018 6:12 pm

Thanks Everyone!

I?m not sure I totally understand all of this, but I?m sure it will become clear as I actually do the installation. I will continue to respond with photos, as I need additional advice.

I also have a question on the sequence of installation: my understanding is as follows:

1. Install rebuilt differential, without torque rods - done

2. Screw Konis into strut tubes

3. Install Aeon bump springs

4. Compress springs and place onto struts, with spring abutment plate on top

5. Insert damper shaft tops into Lotocones and secure with top nut, using whatever approach makes sense when I get to that point

6. Install CV drive shafts between differential and (now hanging) strut, including brake discs

7. Install wishbones, inner wishbone bolts first, then swinging wishbone up to secure outer wishbone bolts to strut housing. Wait to tighten when car is lowered to normal ride height.

8. Install torques rods, but do not torque yet.

9. Install rear brake calipers.

10. Install hubs and tighten retaining nut using brakes to immobilize drive shafts. Please note, I am assuming I do this now, as I have knock-on wheels, and lowering car onto the tires to immobilize the driveshafts does not seem like a good idea to me.

11. Install wheels, lower car to normal ride height, and tighten wishbone nuts and torque rods.

Is all of this correct? Any changes, thoughts, or advice?

As always, many thanks!

John
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PostPost by: Craven » Sat Mar 17, 2018 7:50 pm

No first-hand experience of this but I believe a piece like this is the part TTR refer in their sheet.
IF USING ORIGINAL LOTACONES YOU MAY NEED TO
MACHINE A TOP HAT OR CONE SHAPED SLEEVE SPACER
TO TAKE UP ANY GAP BETWEEN THE SHOCK ABSORBER
ROD AND THE INSIDE DIAMETER OF THE LOTACONE
lotocone-1.jpg
lotocone-1.jpg (91.14 KiB) Viewed 844 times
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PostPost by: jbeach » Sat Mar 17, 2018 8:09 pm

Thanks, Craven

That spacer is, indeed, part of what I received from TTR with these dampers. While they are not mentioned in the instructions, I am hoping their exact position will become clear when I have inserted the damper end into the Lotocone later this weekend.

-John
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PostPost by: ecamiel » Sat Mar 17, 2018 9:50 pm

your step - "2. Screw Konis into strut tubes" needs a note
You must use some method to insure that the Koni won't unscrew from the tube. Locktite red, peening the tube over or whatever you chose.
I know it sounds excessive but I had one come out and it made an expensive mess slamming about.

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PostPost by: jbeach » Sat Mar 17, 2018 11:36 pm

Thanks Eric.

I?ll be honest - I knew about this, but had decided to just skip over it. But, I know you are right and I need to do this, for peace of mind AND the substantive reasons.

The dampers are in the tubes now, so I?ll just use a punch and ?peen? them.

-John
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PostPost by: AussieJohn » Sun Mar 18, 2018 3:20 am

Did you fill the tubes with oil when you put the konis in?
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Sun Mar 18, 2018 6:03 am

" Fill " the tubes ?

John :wink:
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PostPost by: jbeach » Sun Mar 18, 2018 12:19 pm

Thanks, guys. Yes, I put about 3-4 oz. antifreeze in the tubes before inserting the dampers.

In addition to the great advice from this forum, I?m using Brian Buckland?s book as a reference guide. But Buckland?s book, amazing as it is, doesn?t cover modern upgrades like newer Konis and adjustable spring perches, in any detail. Which is why I?m so grateful for this forum.

So, do I tighten the hubs initially while the car is in the air, or lower it first?

Best,

-John
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PostPost by: Craven » Sun Mar 18, 2018 1:07 pm

Hubs my method, using a suitable piece of tube Knock the hubs up tight first.
If the brake will hold for you to apply full torque then that?s fine, but you will need to recheck after a few miles.
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PostPost by: jbeach » Sun Mar 18, 2018 6:27 pm

Got it, Craven. That?s exactly what I?ll do.
-John
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