Rear Damper Top Nut Question
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Dear Rear Suspension Experts,
I am about to install new Koni dampers I purchased from TTR. My old red Konis had a slotted nut at the top with a cotter pin to keep it from loosening. As you can see, these new ones have a relatively thin nut at the top with a fairly thick lock washer.
It looks to me like the Lotocones are designed to allow for some movement of the dampers, which makes me worry the nut/lock washer arrangement will loosen over time.
Should I be worried? Should I put a second locking nut on top of the first one? Other ideas?
A slotted nut with pin will not work because damper adjustment is accomplished via a thin rod the goes through the center of the damper shaft.
Many thanks!
-John
I am about to install new Koni dampers I purchased from TTR. My old red Konis had a slotted nut at the top with a cotter pin to keep it from loosening. As you can see, these new ones have a relatively thin nut at the top with a fairly thick lock washer.
It looks to me like the Lotocones are designed to allow for some movement of the dampers, which makes me worry the nut/lock washer arrangement will loosen over time.
Should I be worried? Should I put a second locking nut on top of the first one? Other ideas?
A slotted nut with pin will not work because damper adjustment is accomplished via a thin rod the goes through the center of the damper shaft.
Many thanks!
-John
John Beach
'69 Elan S4 DHC - A Work in Progress
'69 Elan S4 DHC - A Work in Progress
- jbeach
- Second Gear
- Posts: 187
- Joined: 10 Nov 2014
Would there be enough threaded shaft through the lotocone to put the old slotted nut first then use the new nut as a locknut The original nut is shaped to centre the shaft in the lotocone
- AussieJohn
- Third Gear
- Posts: 440
- Joined: 10 Jun 2007
TTR used to send out instructions with the dampers.
See paragraph 7 ......
See paragraph 7 ......
Roger
S4 DHC
S4 DHC
- oldelanman
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1930
- Joined: 02 Jan 2008
Thanks Everyone!
I?m not sure I totally understand all of this, but I?m sure it will become clear as I actually do the installation. I will continue to respond with photos, as I need additional advice.
I also have a question on the sequence of installation: my understanding is as follows:
1. Install rebuilt differential, without torque rods - done
2. Screw Konis into strut tubes
3. Install Aeon bump springs
4. Compress springs and place onto struts, with spring abutment plate on top
5. Insert damper shaft tops into Lotocones and secure with top nut, using whatever approach makes sense when I get to that point
6. Install CV drive shafts between differential and (now hanging) strut, including brake discs
7. Install wishbones, inner wishbone bolts first, then swinging wishbone up to secure outer wishbone bolts to strut housing. Wait to tighten when car is lowered to normal ride height.
8. Install torques rods, but do not torque yet.
9. Install rear brake calipers.
10. Install hubs and tighten retaining nut using brakes to immobilize drive shafts. Please note, I am assuming I do this now, as I have knock-on wheels, and lowering car onto the tires to immobilize the driveshafts does not seem like a good idea to me.
11. Install wheels, lower car to normal ride height, and tighten wishbone nuts and torque rods.
Is all of this correct? Any changes, thoughts, or advice?
As always, many thanks!
John
I?m not sure I totally understand all of this, but I?m sure it will become clear as I actually do the installation. I will continue to respond with photos, as I need additional advice.
I also have a question on the sequence of installation: my understanding is as follows:
1. Install rebuilt differential, without torque rods - done
2. Screw Konis into strut tubes
3. Install Aeon bump springs
4. Compress springs and place onto struts, with spring abutment plate on top
5. Insert damper shaft tops into Lotocones and secure with top nut, using whatever approach makes sense when I get to that point
6. Install CV drive shafts between differential and (now hanging) strut, including brake discs
7. Install wishbones, inner wishbone bolts first, then swinging wishbone up to secure outer wishbone bolts to strut housing. Wait to tighten when car is lowered to normal ride height.
8. Install torques rods, but do not torque yet.
9. Install rear brake calipers.
10. Install hubs and tighten retaining nut using brakes to immobilize drive shafts. Please note, I am assuming I do this now, as I have knock-on wheels, and lowering car onto the tires to immobilize the driveshafts does not seem like a good idea to me.
11. Install wheels, lower car to normal ride height, and tighten wishbone nuts and torque rods.
Is all of this correct? Any changes, thoughts, or advice?
As always, many thanks!
John
John Beach
'69 Elan S4 DHC - A Work in Progress
'69 Elan S4 DHC - A Work in Progress
- jbeach
- Second Gear
- Posts: 187
- Joined: 10 Nov 2014
No first-hand experience of this but I believe a piece like this is the part TTR refer in their sheet.
IF USING ORIGINAL LOTACONES YOU MAY NEED TO
MACHINE A TOP HAT OR CONE SHAPED SLEEVE SPACER
TO TAKE UP ANY GAP BETWEEN THE SHOCK ABSORBER
ROD AND THE INSIDE DIAMETER OF THE LOTACONE
IF USING ORIGINAL LOTACONES YOU MAY NEED TO
MACHINE A TOP HAT OR CONE SHAPED SLEEVE SPACER
TO TAKE UP ANY GAP BETWEEN THE SHOCK ABSORBER
ROD AND THE INSIDE DIAMETER OF THE LOTACONE
- Craven
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 14 Sep 2013
Thanks, Craven
That spacer is, indeed, part of what I received from TTR with these dampers. While they are not mentioned in the instructions, I am hoping their exact position will become clear when I have inserted the damper end into the Lotocone later this weekend.
-John
That spacer is, indeed, part of what I received from TTR with these dampers. While they are not mentioned in the instructions, I am hoping their exact position will become clear when I have inserted the damper end into the Lotocone later this weekend.
-John
John Beach
'69 Elan S4 DHC - A Work in Progress
'69 Elan S4 DHC - A Work in Progress
- jbeach
- Second Gear
- Posts: 187
- Joined: 10 Nov 2014
your step - "2. Screw Konis into strut tubes" needs a note
You must use some method to insure that the Koni won't unscrew from the tube. Locktite red, peening the tube over or whatever you chose.
I know it sounds excessive but I had one come out and it made an expensive mess slamming about.
Eric
64 S1
You must use some method to insure that the Koni won't unscrew from the tube. Locktite red, peening the tube over or whatever you chose.
I know it sounds excessive but I had one come out and it made an expensive mess slamming about.
Eric
64 S1
-
ecamiel - Second Gear
- Posts: 171
- Joined: 02 Oct 2003
Thanks Eric.
I?ll be honest - I knew about this, but had decided to just skip over it. But, I know you are right and I need to do this, for peace of mind AND the substantive reasons.
The dampers are in the tubes now, so I?ll just use a punch and ?peen? them.
-John
I?ll be honest - I knew about this, but had decided to just skip over it. But, I know you are right and I need to do this, for peace of mind AND the substantive reasons.
The dampers are in the tubes now, so I?ll just use a punch and ?peen? them.
-John
John Beach
'69 Elan S4 DHC - A Work in Progress
'69 Elan S4 DHC - A Work in Progress
- jbeach
- Second Gear
- Posts: 187
- Joined: 10 Nov 2014
Did you fill the tubes with oil when you put the konis in?
- AussieJohn
- Third Gear
- Posts: 440
- Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Thanks, guys. Yes, I put about 3-4 oz. antifreeze in the tubes before inserting the dampers.
In addition to the great advice from this forum, I?m using Brian Buckland?s book as a reference guide. But Buckland?s book, amazing as it is, doesn?t cover modern upgrades like newer Konis and adjustable spring perches, in any detail. Which is why I?m so grateful for this forum.
So, do I tighten the hubs initially while the car is in the air, or lower it first?
Best,
-John
In addition to the great advice from this forum, I?m using Brian Buckland?s book as a reference guide. But Buckland?s book, amazing as it is, doesn?t cover modern upgrades like newer Konis and adjustable spring perches, in any detail. Which is why I?m so grateful for this forum.
So, do I tighten the hubs initially while the car is in the air, or lower it first?
Best,
-John
John Beach
'69 Elan S4 DHC - A Work in Progress
'69 Elan S4 DHC - A Work in Progress
- jbeach
- Second Gear
- Posts: 187
- Joined: 10 Nov 2014
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