Breather oil drain tube replacement in situ

[gjz30075]

I've never have had to replace the drain tube with the engine installed and I really don't want to
pull the head. I've got the carbs off and it looks like maybe the fuel pump needs to come out
but maybe not. I know others have done this job before in situ so does the fuel pump need
to come out? The tube will be replaced with another oem rubber one (somehow).

Just trying to save some steps.

[reb53]

I can't recall whether I removed the pump or not, but I certainly didn't pull the head !
Did pull the carbs though using the time proven method of undoing the engine mount to allow the engine to be lifted sufficiently to allow acess to the nuts.
I cut the tube out and cleaned up the oil and dirt.
Then put the draintube into a saucepan of water and boiled it for about 10 minutes.
Whilst that was happening very carefully put some hi temp silicone sealant around the outside of the holes.
Then bent and squished the now very malleable tube into place.
Absolutely no way was the head coming off for that !

Ralph.

[gjz30075]

Thanks Ralph. Looking through threads on this process, heating and forcing the rubber breather into place
seems to be the accepted method. That's probably why I haven't found an aftermarket replacement that
would be 'retractable/ extendable type with 'O' rings, similar to what elantrikbits makes (but doesn't sell). I guess
the demand isn't there and not worth the cost.

[elanman999]

As Ralph says it can be done. I took the carbs off complete with the air box back. But to do this you need a good selection of 1/4 square drive extensions for the lower carb nuts. I too can't remember if I took the fuel pump off but I did take the glass bowl off, there was lots of muck in the pump. You need a pair of large long nose pliers or even long nose mole grips, grab the old rubber tube, it will be quite soft, twist the pliers and pull at the same time and the old tube will come out without cutting.
Then clean things down so the new sealer sticks. I think I put the bottom of the new tube in first and then pushed the top in. The sealer does act a lubricant.
Good luck.

[gherlt]

viewtopic.php?p=383365
user holywood3645 on this forum had a few made and offered for 150 USD

[holywood3645]

Still have some

[gjz30075]

James, pm sent.

[elancoupe]

Still have some

IMG_9461.jpeg

This is the way to go.

[GLB]

I made something very much like this on my first twincam rebuild when I forgot to install the drain, but I used a large spring to keep tension on the two parts. I didn't think of this method frankly and I like it better but the spring has worked for many years. Compressing the rather heavy spring I used made it a little tough to install. Gary

[ElanDNA]

Still have some

The attachment IMG_9461.jpeg is no longer available

This is the way to go.

That is one way. Very nice, very, very elaborate and not cheaply made.
My solution in my picture consists of two pieces of plastic, a piece of oil hose and two hose clamp,
whereby the lower one would also suffice. Tight for 30 years!
Unfortunately I didn't make a sketch at the time, which I could do one day.
I only adjust the variable distance between block and head with the appropriate hose length.
As I can see in the picture of holywood3645, is the top part a bit high? Doesn't this create an oil sump in the head?

[prezoom]

The breathers are made to accept all possible versions of the TC and the BDA, from L block to M block, 1500 to 1600 etc, including differences in deck height and head gasket thickness. The ideal way to install, is to measure how far the main body of the breather sticks up into the cylinder head, and trim the body of the breather to match the thickness of the bottom of cylinder head chamber. The sliding sleeve takes up any differences. There are two O rings in grooves in the breather body to seal oil leaking between the sleeve and the body. Actually, there are three grooves in the body to accommodate differences in height, and if trimming is necessary, the top O ring can be moved down to the bottom groove. The O ring between the sleeve. and the threaded collar serves as a locking ring to prevent the collar from becoming loose.