Lotus Elan

Minilite wheels and spinners

PostPost by: Rall » Mon Apr 27, 2020 6:31 pm

Hi - I am trying to install my minilite wheels and have both the original spinners and I bought some center lock nuts and a big long handled spanner. Unfortunately the spanner bumps into the the spokes on the minilites. So what have others done to get around this. I gather there are three eared spinner tools that allow one to use a socket on the spinners, are there other solutions?

Thanks!
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Mon Apr 27, 2020 6:49 pm

Contact Lionel Roberts. His contact information is in this thread
viewtopic.php?f=43&t=30392&start=15
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PostPost by: s28ven » Tue Apr 28, 2020 5:43 am

Looking at the clearance between the spokes and spinner ears on mine I don’t think any of the tools available would help. I only have roughly 5mm between the face of the spoke and the rear of the spinner ear.

Steven
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Tue Apr 28, 2020 6:29 am

If you use Nuts like on +2S130 Elans you can use the big Anodised Socket.
These were made by someone on the Forum. They have a hole to put a Tommy Bar for tightening.
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PostPost by: Rall » Tue Apr 28, 2020 7:22 am

I have the +2 'nuts' but the 'wrench' I bought rubs against the spokes so will either have to modify the wrench or find another solution
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PostPost by: velo5338 » Tue Apr 28, 2020 5:01 pm

I had this problem with a set of 'Minilites' I bought from Spyder. The wrench I bought from Sarto just could not latch onto the spinner 'ears' without contacting the face of the wheel and marring the finish.

My solution was to machine a set of spacers that nested between the spinner and the stainless insert supplied with each wheel. Worked well and have been in place for a couple of years now. I 'matched-marked' the wheel/spacer/spinner with black Sharpie dots so any relative movement would be easily seen - but none so far with 'spirited' driving.

Mike

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PostPost by: Rall » Tue Apr 28, 2020 5:26 pm

Thanks everybody - I am thinking of taking the wrench I bought to a machine shop and get the handle cut off, make and weld on a stand-off/spacer to the "socket" end and reattach the handle to the spacer-socket
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PostPost by: Goldrob » Tue Apr 28, 2020 5:37 pm

I too have the same issue with my Minilites…..

I purchased my wheels directly from Minilite in 2018. The wheels were shipped with machined bushings that fit in the wheel center. I later became aware that RD Enterprises, http://www.rdent.com, also markets Minilite wheels, I contacted Ray and described my issue.

Ray noted that the wheels that he stocked provided ample clearance for the KO 3 Ear Nut tool to clear the spokes. We both assumed that my bushing rings must have been machined differently. Ray was kind enough to lend me one of his bushings for comparison.

I found that my OEM bushing rings were machined exactly like the sample that Ray sent …BUT the center of my wheels were machined deeper than the wheels in the RD Ent. catalog…the face of my rings are .125” Below the face of the wheel while the RD Ent. appear to be approximately .25” PROUD of the face of the wheel.

Ray also mentioned that he was aware of "Nader Safety" 3 Ear KO nuts. Ray emailed me a dimensioned photograph of a KO Spinner that he stocked. I found that my KO's Ear clearance to the base was .70” while Ray's was 1.125”.

So...... the ears of my KO Nuts are very tight to the Wheel spokes and unfortunately do not allow me to use the spanner to tighten the nuts. I plan to eventually have new bushing machined to solve the issue.

Attached are pics of my the Bushing Rings in relationship to the Wheel....

Rob.
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PostPost by: andrewk » Wed Apr 29, 2020 11:04 pm

I had the identical issue with shallow bushing rings on brand-new Minilites and the Sarto tool.
1.JPG and

Dammit.
2.JPG and

My solution was to grind a little off the outer edges of the tool as shown in the photos.
3.JPG and

4.JPG and

Quick, easy and effective!
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PostPost by: Rall » Sun May 03, 2020 11:56 am

Thanks to everyone. My solution, so far, was to buy a tool from wheelwidget(at)hotmail.co.uk, as pictured. I have yer to mount the wheel and tyre but it looks like everything should work without modification. - thanks
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PostPost by: TBG » Mon May 18, 2020 3:14 pm

Just a thought - why would you want to replace the original wheels? They are so beautiful.................

Wheel paint.jpg and
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PostPost by: vstibbard » Mon May 18, 2020 3:23 pm

I agree with you.

However, here's four reasons I would, first two I've not experienced myself with the Elan's I've owned but have seen wheels with the damage noted:

1. cracking out to the locating pegs;
2. elongated locating peg holes;
3. to fit wider tyres with correct width rims to avoid unnecessary bagging of the sidewalls; and
4. If using the car for tracks days or competition, I'd not use a 50+ year old wheel.

Cheers

Vaughan
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PostPost by: StressCraxx » Mon May 18, 2020 3:57 pm

vstibbard wrote:I agree with you.

However, here's four reasons I would, first two I've not experienced myself with the Elan's I've owned but have seen wheels with the damage noted:

1. cracking out to the locating pegs;
2. elongated locating peg holes;
3. to fit wider tyres with correct width rims to avoid unnecessary bagging of the sidewalls; and
4. If using the car for tracks days or competition, I'd not use a 50+ year old wheel.

Cheers

Vaughan


Vaughan,
If I could add to the above, the OE wheels are so thin, it's hard to find any that are true. The reason for the fatigue cracking is the flex during cornering on modern tires.
Regards,
Dan
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PostPost by: TBG » Mon May 18, 2020 4:00 pm

Actually the replacement wheels I bought a few years go are thicker steel. Over 200k miles so far with no problems. Famous last words? I hope not!!
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PostPost by: vstibbard » Fri May 22, 2020 4:43 am

Were the new ones made in Melbourne, Australia by Steve Taylor at Lotus Marques?

V
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