Type 9 gearbox Mods
16 posts
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Hi all,
I have been looking at 5 speed gearbox options and threads for a number of months and have generally settled on the T9 Ford box.
I was looking on a MG site the other day where a guy had cut the gear stick cup, reduced the linkage bar and welded the cup some 60 to 70mm further up.
My first question is, how far back does this put the gear stick on a plus 2? Secondly there appears to be an oil seal that prevent you moving this cup closer to the box ? what else prevents you moving it closer?
Here is the link to the other thread.
http://www.british-cars.net/mg-midget-s ... 355749.htm
Advise and comments please
Thanks Dave
I have been looking at 5 speed gearbox options and threads for a number of months and have generally settled on the T9 Ford box.
I was looking on a MG site the other day where a guy had cut the gear stick cup, reduced the linkage bar and welded the cup some 60 to 70mm further up.
My first question is, how far back does this put the gear stick on a plus 2? Secondly there appears to be an oil seal that prevent you moving this cup closer to the box ? what else prevents you moving it closer?
Here is the link to the other thread.
http://www.british-cars.net/mg-midget-s ... 355749.htm
Advise and comments please
Thanks Dave
- carrierdave
- Third Gear
- Posts: 326
- Joined: 23 Sep 2004
Dave , I have just installed a modified type 9 in my +2, the selector rail bias device sits in front of the seal so will prevent any further movement unless it is moved as I did on mine. With these mods the gear lever on mine is approx 190mm further forward but significant mods to the tail housing as well as the selector rail are necessary to achieve this.
I have posted a few pictures in the "Things in Common" Section under "T9 into a +2" in one of them you can see where the gear lever is positioned, it is not as far forward as with the 4 speed but I have found it fine to use.
Cheers
I have posted a few pictures in the "Things in Common" Section under "T9 into a +2" in one of them you can see where the gear lever is positioned, it is not as far forward as with the 4 speed but I have found it fine to use.
Cheers
Richard
- rjaxe
- Second Gear
- Posts: 196
- Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Hi Richard,
I would be very interested in seeing any details you have of how you moved the gearbox bias system behind the gear leaver.
I see this is the main thing that stops you from getting the leaver as far forward as you can.
I have looked at your post and you appear to have achieved a great deal more that others with the gear position. Any pictures design details would be gratefully received.
Many thanks
Dave
I would be very interested in seeing any details you have of how you moved the gearbox bias system behind the gear leaver.
I see this is the main thing that stops you from getting the leaver as far forward as you can.
I have looked at your post and you appear to have achieved a great deal more that others with the gear position. Any pictures design details would be gratefully received.
Many thanks
Dave
- carrierdave
- Third Gear
- Posts: 326
- Joined: 23 Sep 2004
rjaxe wrote:Dave, sorry not to have replied before but I have been away. I have a lot of detail on the mod I did so rather than clog up this forum its probably best if you send me your email address so I can forward some info to you.
Cheers
The forum is here to "clog up" with this kind of information. If that's not what you want to do, that is fine but to see many of the topics that come up and discussed and this not this mod is some what disappointing.
Gary
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garyeanderson - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2634
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Glad you said that, Gary. Ties up with something I've been thinking. OK, one should perhaps check the archives and use the search function, but that, IMHO, shouldn't make it difficult to ask stupid questions - it's not easy as it is when you feel surrounded by Lotus gurus.
I try to be a teacher at work and know by personal and professional experience that knowledge often needs repetition (lots in my case) to be assimilated. Using references is a useful and necessary tool for constructing that knowledge; but it's frustrating and feels demeaning when one asks a question and is told to look in the encyclopedia/archives.
I can understand getting fed up with repetition (especially with the students I have) but we were all born in this world with zero knowledge (unless you believe you are Jim Clark re-incarnated).
Anyway, most of you guys are extremely helpful and understanding and appreciated - maybe it's just the medium and feeling of inferiority that makes one prone to mis-interpreting comments.
Just to finish, archived sections of the forum are really a pain to search with all the repeated quotes. Much more natural to ask, 'Hey XXX, can you tell me how to YYYY, please?'
@+
Vernon
P.S. So please, rjaxe, post everything you know - thanks!
I try to be a teacher at work and know by personal and professional experience that knowledge often needs repetition (lots in my case) to be assimilated. Using references is a useful and necessary tool for constructing that knowledge; but it's frustrating and feels demeaning when one asks a question and is told to look in the encyclopedia/archives.
I can understand getting fed up with repetition (especially with the students I have) but we were all born in this world with zero knowledge (unless you believe you are Jim Clark re-incarnated).
Anyway, most of you guys are extremely helpful and understanding and appreciated - maybe it's just the medium and feeling of inferiority that makes one prone to mis-interpreting comments.
Just to finish, archived sections of the forum are really a pain to search with all the repeated quotes. Much more natural to ask, 'Hey XXX, can you tell me how to YYYY, please?'
@+
Vernon
P.S. So please, rjaxe, post everything you know - thanks!
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vernon.taylor - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 683
- Joined: 05 Nov 2010
In response to popular demand(well Vernon and Gary at least) I have prepared an article describing my experience in fitting a Type 9 into my Plus 2. I hope it is of help and interest.
- Attachments
-
- FITTING A TYPE 9 INTO A PLUS 2 ELAN.pdf
- (766.11 KiB) Downloaded 1810 times
Richard
- rjaxe
- Second Gear
- Posts: 196
- Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Hi Richard
Great write up, Thank you for sharing. Now if I could get myself motivated and get the T9 out of the boot of the Cortina GT storage bin, that would be a great thing.
Gary
Great write up, Thank you for sharing. Now if I could get myself motivated and get the T9 out of the boot of the Cortina GT storage bin, that would be a great thing.
Gary
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garyeanderson - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2634
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Richard great article thanks for sharing it with us some of the work done by people on this forum is truly inspiring
Ian
Ian
- elansprint
- Third Gear
- Posts: 431
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Merci beaucoup, Richard.
I'll have a good read tonight.
@+
Vernon
I'll have a good read tonight.
@+
Vernon
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vernon.taylor - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 683
- Joined: 05 Nov 2010
Update:- Now covered approx 400 miles with the type 9 installed, no leaks or nasty noises have occured. Having congratulated myself on a job well done the inevitable has happened, cannot select reverse, the clutch does not release. As those who have read my article will know I spent a lot of effort making sure the clutch worked properly so you can imagine my distress.
So first things first,
Bled the system, this made no difference I then reconnected my slave master cylinder, thus reproducing the bench set up, clutched worked fine.
Suspicion now fallen on the car master cylinder so removed it from the car for inspection. All seem fine except for some ovality in the clevis pin holes. As this could loose stroke I cleaned up the clevis pin holes and fitted a larger diameter pivot pin. Also fitted replacement seals as a precaution. Reassembled it to the car and rechecked the operation, again no difference.
However what I did notice and had not appreciated before was that the clutch would fully release part way down the stroke only to start to drag beyond this region. Strange! So rechecked the cluch operation this time using roughly 3/4 stroke and each time I operated it this way it was fine.
So the solution to this isssue will be to limit the clutch pedal travel.
I have not worked out why the clutch operates like this, perhaps the centre boss on the pressure plate contacts the friction plate at the extreme end of its travel. It had not occurred to me to check this feature assuming that once the plate had released that was that. However this is a hybrid set up with an RS 2000 friction plate and a Lotus pressure plate which has a centre boss, I don't think the RS 2000 pressure plate has a centre boss just fingers for the release bearing to work against. I don't have dimensions to hand to determine if this could be a cause, but if anyone is following my article for their project you need to be aware of this.
Put another 60 miles on the car today, clutch behaved perfectly using limited travel, peace of mind restored.
So first things first,
Bled the system, this made no difference I then reconnected my slave master cylinder, thus reproducing the bench set up, clutched worked fine.
Suspicion now fallen on the car master cylinder so removed it from the car for inspection. All seem fine except for some ovality in the clevis pin holes. As this could loose stroke I cleaned up the clevis pin holes and fitted a larger diameter pivot pin. Also fitted replacement seals as a precaution. Reassembled it to the car and rechecked the operation, again no difference.
However what I did notice and had not appreciated before was that the clutch would fully release part way down the stroke only to start to drag beyond this region. Strange! So rechecked the cluch operation this time using roughly 3/4 stroke and each time I operated it this way it was fine.
So the solution to this isssue will be to limit the clutch pedal travel.
I have not worked out why the clutch operates like this, perhaps the centre boss on the pressure plate contacts the friction plate at the extreme end of its travel. It had not occurred to me to check this feature assuming that once the plate had released that was that. However this is a hybrid set up with an RS 2000 friction plate and a Lotus pressure plate which has a centre boss, I don't think the RS 2000 pressure plate has a centre boss just fingers for the release bearing to work against. I don't have dimensions to hand to determine if this could be a cause, but if anyone is following my article for their project you need to be aware of this.
Put another 60 miles on the car today, clutch behaved perfectly using limited travel, peace of mind restored.
Richard
- rjaxe
- Second Gear
- Posts: 196
- Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Hi rj
Perhaps a longer bolt with an additional nut on the clutch master mount lise the one shown in this thread would be a simple Lotus solution
elan-f14/pedal-stop-t25461.html
Perhaps a longer bolt with an additional nut on the clutch master mount lise the one shown in this thread would be a simple Lotus solution
elan-f14/pedal-stop-t25461.html
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garyeanderson - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2634
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Hi Richard
We have "conversed" before about T9 boxes. My car uses a T9 mated to a Rocket to BDA bellhousing. I was strongly advised before carrying out the transplant to bolt the engine, box and clutch together off the car and rig up a temp hydraulic circuit- just to check for any selection problems. The reasoning behind this was that because the Rocket bellhousing is deeper than the std cast iron 4 speed one the throw of the clutch arm might differ. In the end I had a new fork pivot post made to allow the height of the post to be adjusted to compensate for any differences in operation. This might be your problem.
John
We have "conversed" before about T9 boxes. My car uses a T9 mated to a Rocket to BDA bellhousing. I was strongly advised before carrying out the transplant to bolt the engine, box and clutch together off the car and rig up a temp hydraulic circuit- just to check for any selection problems. The reasoning behind this was that because the Rocket bellhousing is deeper than the std cast iron 4 speed one the throw of the clutch arm might differ. In the end I had a new fork pivot post made to allow the height of the post to be adjusted to compensate for any differences in operation. This might be your problem.
John
- worzel
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 614
- Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Thanks guys, I have now fitted a stop for the clutch pedal.
I have discovered that there was an adustable stop already fitted in the pedal box but was not able to move it so I have fitted a temporary solution until I can remove the box and sort out it out.
Cheers
I have discovered that there was an adustable stop already fitted in the pedal box but was not able to move it so I have fitted a temporary solution until I can remove the box and sort out it out.
Cheers
Richard
- rjaxe
- Second Gear
- Posts: 196
- Joined: 04 Dec 2006
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