CV drive shafts identification & boot replacement

[holywood3645]

Boot is split on my cv drive shaft setup.
I'm can't remember where I bought them years ago, but the boot is split at strut side. Anyone any idea what they are orginally off? As I need to find replacements
Also I've never done this on a cv shaft boot replacement before is it a difficult job?
Thanks
James

[StressCraxx]

Hello James,

I'm almost certain the boots are from a VW Type 3 all the way through VW Rabbit and later transporters.

https://www.jbugs.com/product/86-1084-1.html

Or replace all 4 since they are all the same age and its a good time to relube them.

https://www.jbugs.com/product/9994.html

[h20hamelan]

Why did it happen?

I have a difficult time with the internals, holding things together, while installing boots.

[mbell]

As stated probably VW. See https://www.jbugs.com/VW-Tech-Article-C ... Specs.html

To confirm which. I suggest using some aviation gasket sealer between cv and adapter plate and small bit of silicon under the corner of the bit metal cap to avoid any grease weeping out.

You'll also need a 6 or 8 mm triple square bit for the bolts.

[alanr]

Change it back to Rotoflexes..less hassle!

Alan.

[alan.barker]

If which it looks like your CVs Driveshafts have Alloy Adapter Plates you need Loctite on Threads + use Loctite Activator.
Alan

[gav]

Mine are Ford with 100mm OD on the CV housing and 6 bolts if that helps

[Hawksfield]

Hi
They are on the net. ebay.

John

[Andy8421]

Change it back to Rotoflexes..less hassle!

Alan.

Less trouble with the boots maybe, but you will need to invest in a good club hammer to straighten out the damage when they let go at 75MPH on the M25....

img_2294a.jpg (104.48 KiB) Viewed 8540 times

[gav]

Ouch

[alan.barker]

It can happen with mm CVs if NO Loctite and NO Loctite Activator used on Cap Head Screws in Alloy Adaptors.
Alan

[Andy8421]

Alan,

Thanks for this.

I am trying to figure out from the pictures what broke first. Was it one of the 3 large bolts that go through the adaptor plate, disc and 3 eared flange attached to the hub?

If so, I thought they had nylocks on them?

Any information would be very helpful.

Thanks,

[Foxie]

Change it back to Rotoflexes..less hassle!

Alan.

Less trouble with the boots maybe, but you will need to invest in a good club hammer to straighten out the damage when they let go at 75MPH on the M25....

img_2294a.jpg

When my last Rotoflex failed catastrophically doing a racing start from traffic lights, it also broke off the brake caliper completely, leaving me in the middle of a major junction with an immobile Lotus and a very red face

That's when I changed to CVs.

[alan.barker]

Andy,
It was the Caphead Screws that unscrewed because NOT Loctited. When Screws go into the Alloy Adaptors they need to be Loctited also with Loctite Activator.
Where the 3 Studs go into Ears at Diff or Hub they needed to be drilled out. They had been forced into their holes. In short a bodged assembly.
Alan

[elansprint]

CV joints are from ford Sierra with boots to match