Rotoflex bolt alignment tool

PostPost by: Elseezed » Thu Jan 28, 2016 7:56 pm

image.jpg and
Rotoflex bolt alignment

Yes it's a G clamp with a groove and Angle steel welded on. Used this tool on my Ginetta G15, made lining the holes up easy one bolt at a time.
Hope it helps. Les.
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PostPost by: pereirac » Thu Jan 28, 2016 10:08 pm

Looks like a great idea and beats two hose clips ... :D
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Thu Jan 28, 2016 11:19 pm

Sorry
No it doesn't...

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PostPost by: billwill » Fri Jan 29, 2016 1:03 am

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PostPost by: bill_s708800 » Fri Jan 29, 2016 1:14 pm

p1050271.jpg and
Still use the jubilee clip. First tap tapered tool in to align the rotoflex and the drive the tool all the way thro' using the rotoflex fixing bolt.

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PostPost by: Elseezed » Wed Apr 13, 2016 9:10 pm

Tried to use the G-clamp, which I used on an Imp & Ginetta G15. Could not use on +2 wishbones and chassis in the way. John was right about the jubilee clips, that is what I used to align the bolts. Another job done. Les.
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PostPost by: reb53 » Thu Apr 14, 2016 6:20 am

Speaking of which, and going slightly off topic, am I correct in thinking that Rotoflexes for a +2 are the same as standard Elan ?
Nothing different ?

Ralph.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Thu Apr 14, 2016 7:21 am

Yes,the same...

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PostPost by: reb53 » Thu Apr 14, 2016 7:26 am

Thanks John. Pretty sure they were but thought I'd better check.

Ralph.
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PostPost by: 512BB » Thu Apr 14, 2016 7:29 am

Correct Ralph, no difference between Elan and +2 donuts.

I have found that the easiest way of fitting donuts is with 3 jubilee clips. That way, you can adjust the 3 bolts you are trying to fit very precisely, in or out.

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PostPost by: stevebroad » Thu Apr 14, 2016 2:45 pm

I used 3 Jubilee clips, so I was able to adjust each bolt hole individually.

PS, just noticed posting above, I needn't have bothered :-)
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PostPost by: Elanman99 » Thu Apr 14, 2016 4:16 pm

Well I always used 3 wormdrive hose clips, but now having seen this thread I'm upping it to six clips!

Then I will have individual adjustment for each hole alignment.

Oops! just remembered, I have CV shafts.

On a more serious note, I hope I never have to do any work on the rear suspension that involves taking off a driveshaft. Fitting the Sue Miller type shafts was probably the worst job I have ever done in the 48 years of Elan ownership.

Ian
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Fri Apr 15, 2016 7:14 am

img_0022.jpg and
hose clip method
img_0022.jpg and
hose clip method

Steve has it like me, very expensive and difficult to make :lol:
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PostPost by: Mazzini » Fri Apr 15, 2016 7:25 am

Elanman99 wrote:Well I always used 3 wormdrive hose clips, but now having seen this thread I'm upping it to six clips!

Then I will have individual adjustment for each hole alignment.

Oops! just remembered, I have CV shafts.

On a more serious note, I hope I never have to do any work on the rear suspension that involves taking off a driveshaft. Fitting the Sue Miller type shafts was probably the worst job I have ever done in the 48 years of Elan ownership.

Ian


I have JAE/Dave Bean CV joints and they were easy to fit, what was the problem with Sue's?
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PostPost by: Elanman99 » Fri Apr 15, 2016 7:44 am

Mazzini wrote:
Elanman99 wrote:
On a more serious note, I hope I never have to do any work on the rear suspension that involves taking off a driveshaft. Fitting the Sue Miller type shafts was probably the worst job I have ever done in the 48 years of Elan ownership.

Ian


I have JAE/Dave Bean CV joints and they were easy to fit, what was the problem with Sue's?


I have fitted scores (possibly hundreds) of Rotoflex couplings in the past and I found the easiest method was not to disconnect any of the suspension but to pre-assemble the shaft with its two couplings and juggle this into position between the diff and hub spiders moving the hub up and down as required. I tried the same technique with the MM shafts thinking that the CV shafts axial compliance would allow the studs to slip into the spider holes. I think there is enough movement for this to happen but it relies on one end of the shaft being fully seated against its spider first.

The biggest problem was the hole alignment which meant that the studs engaged with the holes but initially not enough thread protruded to get enough engagement with the nuts. When I did get the nuts on and started to tighten them up I was committed, but the aluminium adapter plates are now so firmly seated I know I will struggle to ever separate them.

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