Dry sump system

[l10tus]

Does anyone use a dry sump system in a road going Elan?

If so, where's the best place for the tank?

Pictures / description would be great!

Thanks,

Phil.

[jimj]

Or, more particularly; why?
Jim

[l10tus]

Jim,

Well, I have to remove my sump - it has a split ( probably from being jacked up under the sump by PO.)

I have all the dry sump components, so thought this would be a semi/ permanent solution whilst the tin sump is being repaired?

Other than that can you help?

Regards,

Phil.

[jimj]

Actually, I can, or rather I know someone who can. Graham Walker rallies his Elan with a dry sump. You can contact him via his website. He`s a Scimitar specialist.
He`ll claim not to know me, but he really does. Tell him Jim and Carole told you to bother him.
Jim

[danielmo]

Not an Elan, but I have a Series 4 Seven that had a dry sumped BDA in it and the oil tank was in the compartment behind the seats. It seemed like a long way to go, but it worked.

[RichardHawkins]

Phil,

I am also considering a dry sump system, but for a different reason.

Theoretically the scavenge pump should create negative pressure in the crank case. The scavenge pump needs to have more capacity than the pressure pump, otherwise the sump will not be dry. I can find plenty of references to dry sump systems producing negative pressure, but none that are specific to a twin cam.

I hope that if crank case pressure is negative oil leaks will be removed or reduced, and that is what I really want, an oil tight engine.

I was hoping to find room in the nose of the car for the oil tank.

All thoughts welcome, especially if someone is running a dry sump system.

Richard Hawkins

[stevebroad]

My last twin cam engine was dry sumped and the tank was in the boot. No issues. I fitted a fuel tank sender so I could keep an eye on the level.

[el-saturn]

.................the basics first: the closer to the engine the better! in my opinion the only good position is TO THE RIGHT, or to the left of your right light pod, by modifying the bottom of a 100quid dry sump tank. lots of cars (lhd drives tend to use the passengers leg room (=unnessesary) as i see it ---------------don?t ever use the boot! (way too far away!) i could add some pictures (btw: oil lines are also shorter MY WAY = vital weight) cheers sandy

[65ginetta]

I have recently completed a S3 Coupe Dry Sump installation for my wife's road, track day LHD Elan. The Oil tank is in the passenger footwell. I created a special thermal enclosure and also installed a full closed circuit air conditioning system for the cabin. The Thermal enclosure is visible in the cabin picture and also the A/C bleed features. The oil tank filler is accessed under the bonnet in the top left corner of engine compartment.
I also fitted a Pre Crossflow Ford dry sump engine to my 1965 Round Tube, G4 Ginetta and for this installation I positioned the dry sump tank under the bonnet. I attach a couple of pictures of the two installations.

[stevebroad]

.................the basics first: the closer to the engine the better! in my opinion the only good position is TO THE RIGHT, or to the left of your right light pod, by modifying the bottom of a 100quid dry sump tank. lots of cars (lhd drives tend to use the passengers leg room (=unnessesary) as i see it ---------------don?t ever use the boot! (way too far away!) i could add some pictures (btw: oil lines are also shorter MY WAY = vital weight) cheers sandy

Back in the 80s - 168bhp at the wheels, 12 second 1/4 mile times, 9000rpm. No issues with tank in the boot, as long as pipes are big enough (1/2" ID minimum)

[l10tus]

Gents,

Thanks for the replies so far - especially the photo's of existing positions - much appreciated.

I hope someone can send a couple of photo's of the Tanks' position in the Elan's nose and rearmost positions, I'm really interested in using the easiest option, but consider all positions have pro's and con's going for them ?

What is the minimum size tank that's advised to not go below?

Thanks for sharing your past experiences and present installations - this knowledge base is priceless!

Regards,

Phil.

[65ginetta]

This is a picture from my 'dry build' for the dry sump tank. I always try to pre assemble any major installations or modifications, long block/bonnet clearance etc. This picture should give you some idea of how much leg room you loose. I'm 5' 10" and can sit quite comfortably in the passenger seat with slight bent legs. I have the original 1966 Roll cage which although not FIA, suits the car but also restricts how far you can push the seat back.
You will need to heat shield the cabin from high oil temp, I made a composite non-woven thermal housing to enclose what you can see in this picture but unfortunately I didn't take a picture. The Front Door is held by Turnlock fastenings. I've also integrated an A/C into the car as we live in the Southern States and it can get hot in the summer. My Twin cam system takes about 7 pints to fill with probably another 1 to 2 pints in the cooler and engine scavenge pan. The Pre Cross Flow G4 takes a pint less but all these figures are pretty subjective and I just like to see plenty of oil flow and minimal aeration in the oil.
This car is not a true racer, just for Jacqui to enjoy and wring its neck fairly frequently.