Gearbox reverse light switch

[Iyarno]

Just need a trained eye to look at this picture.

1. Is the bolt in the top of the photo intended to be the reversing light switch?
2. If it is the correct location for the switch, is this a switch or just a bolt put in to 'plug' the hole? There is no movement on the bolt when reverse is engaged, and no sign of being able to attach any wires to it.

My 68 Elan +2 has a manual switch on the dashboard to turn on the reversing lights, so I'm trying to get them working from the gearbox again. I figure this is just a bolt used to plug the hole because a PO couldn't source a replacement switch.

Thanks all...

[john.p.clegg]

Yep,just the same as mine (68 Plus2)...or is it just slightly out???

John

[Iyarno]

Thanks John. The position looks identical. Do you think mine is actually a switch or just a bolt? Should the switch move up/down when reverse is engaged?

Ian

[alexblack13]

No. The moving part is internal. No moving parts are visible.

Select reverse and put a meter across the terminals checking for closed circuit (continuity)...Out of reverse should give 'open' circuit, I.E. no continuity..

John will no doubt be along in a mo' .

Alex..

[Iyarno]

Thanks for the info. I'm pretty sure mine is just a bolt, with a nut to prevent the bolt from entering the casing too far..
I certainly can't see or feel any kind of terminal - I could remove it but I fear I might not be able to get it back in without a bit of hassle. I don't want to do this unless I can get hold of a switch.

One last question, are the wires soldered onto the switch, or do they use eyelets of some kind?

Ian

[alexblack13]

That certainly looks like it is a switch in your picture. It's in the correct location and the locking nut is to allow one to adjust the switch and lock into position..

Adjusting... (making sure the switch is working 1st using a meter) Select reverse and gently screw in the switch until it bottoms out, then turn it back about 1 - 2 turns. Make sure still closed circuit and the box disengages and re engages reverse OK. Then re-test the switch. OR, again in reverse, wind in the switch until it 'closes' electrically and then another 1/4 turn & lock up with the nut. Check gear selection / de-selection again.

The 'terminals' are very small brass 'loops' and one has to solder the wiring to them. Not unusual to find these broken off which can render the switch U/S. They are not 'Lucar' type connections. Take the switch out for testing if you can and if the 'terminals are ok, solder on a new cable. Test, (Push in the little pin!) and replace..

They are very reliable normally and you should be able to get it out and back in ok. (+2?)

If switch is u/s I am sure new ones are available from the usual suspects.. Here for eg...

http://www.lotusmarques.com/parts/datas ... ght-switch .... Bit far away granted but good pic' of the remade switches..
AB...

[Iyarno]

Took the switch off, much easier than I thought. It is indeedy a switch which I've now cleaned up. The pin at the bottom however does need to be pushed in ALL the way before the buzzers sounds on my multimeter and any kind of wire connectors it might have had seem to be broken off - there are only a couple of pins either side. However I'll try soldering a pair of wires onto this directly and give it a try before hunting for a new switch. Hopefully some fine tuning/adjustment should get it working reliably.

Cheers Alex/John, very useful info.