S1 S2 Steel Wheels and Nuts

[Seveneer]

Lotus Elan S1 and S2 - Steel wheels 4.5x13"

Despite careful balancing, I always have vibrations with my S2 Elan. After checking the wheels very carefully, I found that the wheels were not well fixed. The holes seem to have grown with time, the nuts go deeper in and touch the studs. The previous owner has widened the inside of the nut, but this is not enough anymore. When attaching the wheel with only one nut, I feel the wheel moves against the flange! Worse, two wheels have cracks and can't be used anymore.

Happily, I could buy S1 wheels. I had these sandblasted and repainted. But now I find these are different from the S2's. The S1 holes are smaller and the nut is pushing into it. The S1 nut has 65? taper, S2 nut has 58?.

Can some one explain this? Are the S1 and S2 wheels different?
Tapers 58? and 65? correct?
Smaller S1 hole correct? What about the step in the S1 holes? Should I drill them away?

I want to make sure I do the right thing, to avoid problems in the future! Thanks for your help

Louis Lempereur
[email protected]

[Seveneer]

One more question !

I think the bad status of the nuts and wheels is due to excessive locking force, probably by pneumatic tools. Despite careful reading of the Elan Workshop Manual, I found no mention about the torque to apply to the wheel nuts. I only found this on the website : "The tapered nuts on four-stud wheels should be torqued to 25 ft/lbs". Correct ?

Thank you !

Louis Lempereur

[rgh0]

yes 25 to 27 ft lbs is torque, you can find it at the end of the specifications section in the workshop manual.

I agree the distortion you see probably resulted from over tightening

I believe all the bolt on wheels fitted from S1 to S4 were the same. Knock ons where always an option or part of the SE spec on later cars.

regards
Rohan

[redskatejbf]

Iam confused as to what torque the wheel nuts should be torqued up to......my workshop manual page 27 notes... wheel nuts (octagonal) 200 - 220lbs.ft. / 27.65 - 30.42kg.m.
I do not know if three eared spinners would be any different, its a S4.
I also have a note of my own from a post on this site to use 160 / 180ft.lbs. not 200ft.lbs.
I have to admit I use a hide hammer for the last 41 years without a problem, tempting providence there I suppose.

Regards John.

[rgh0]

We are talking about the 4 wheel nuts used on each of the bolt on style wheels at 25 ft lbs torque not the large single spinners used on each of the knock on wheels which require 200 plus ft lbs or a good wack with a hammer if so inclined (which is what i do).

The bolt on wheels were standard on S1 and S2 cars with knock on wheels being an option starting around the time of S3 cars and part of the SE package. Not many S3 and S4 cars came with the bolt on wheels (my S4 Elan did) as most took the option for knock ons

regards
Rohan

[redskatejbf]

Oh dear......I must leave the Bordeaux (Fronsac in this case) alone, I did not look at the text or picture close enough before posting, my apologies.
Slurp, Slurp, John.

[Tahoe]

yes 25 to 27 ft lbs is torque, you can find it at the end of the specifications section in the workshop manual.


regards
Rohan

This seems like a very small torque, is it only because they are steel wheels? What about Panasports, Minilites, etc? I would think they could have a higher torque value. 25 lb-ft is not very tight concidering the stud size.

,Russ

[Seveneer]

Thank you Rohan for the torque value. I checked my manual again, but did not find. May be this critical value was added in a later edition !

I got a torque wrench and found the torque is very close to the one I had with my small hand tool. See picture. So, tightening by hand, even with a small lever will do the job right. I feel my wheels could have been destroyed by over tightening with a pneumatic tool set too strong. So, be careful !

Now, I will install my "new" wheels from the S1. I will use the original S1 nuts to avoid problems with the different angle. Also, I plan to drill away the "step" so that the nut can apply fully on the cone. Transfer the tyres. Balance. And hopefully drive a smooth Elan soon !

Louis Lempereur

[Seveneer]

While checking the inside of the wheels, I found that the end of the cones were longer than the flange. So, in fact, the wheel would apply on the four cones, not on the flange. I had the wheels machined so that there would be a gap of approx 0.5mm between the end of the cones and the flange, being sure the wheel effectively is on the flange when tightened !