tire/wheel width, lowering, flares & cutting ?'s, again....
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I've searched this great forum but still get confused. On an S4 elan, with say the 2.25 ID springs front and rear, what are my tire/wheel options on a slightly lowered for racing coupe? Can I eventually run 205/60 if I want more then 185, without flares, cutting the inner lip a bit? Can I run 185 without flares if the car has been lowered. What wheels will I need (have original steel now). And if I need flares where do you recommend I find some?
- mini64
- Second Gear
- Posts: 179
- Joined: 26 Aug 2005
I have a standard S4 with 185-60R13's Toyo Proxy RA1s all around on lotus plus 2 standard 5.5" wheels. I didn't even trim the inner lip. It couldn't get much tighter, but it works. The rolling radius of the proxies is a lot smaller than the standard tires, but I love the way the car feels. It tracks really well, still handles nimbly and can really hold a corner. Dan
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collins_dan - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1102
- Joined: 09 Jan 2006
I also have a stock S4 with 185/60 tyres on the standard steel rims and unmodified wheel arch lip - Bridgestone RE71's (they're getting a bit old, but at 2000 miles a year...). They just fit but at the end of the day another 185/60 may not - not all 185/60's have the same profile width. My rear spring perches are standard but have been slightly modified (read hammered in!).
Something to watch out for with oversized tyres is possible impact on the front wheel arch when the car is on or close to full lock under cornering load - I have heard of wheel arches being torn when the spring compresses and the tyre, now at an angle to the body, catches the top of the wheel arch.
Something to watch out for with oversized tyres is possible impact on the front wheel arch when the car is on or close to full lock under cornering load - I have heard of wheel arches being torn when the spring compresses and the tyre, now at an angle to the body, catches the top of the wheel arch.
Elliott - 70 S4 dhc
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ElliottN - Second Gear
- Posts: 171
- Joined: 19 Apr 2004
Note that the standard 4.5" wheels are only marginally OK with 155-13 tires. For wider tires, the easiest upgrade is with 5.5" wheels.
If you run 4.5" wheels, the tire pressure needs to be reduced compared with the 155-13 tires, which reduces tire life, cornering, and braking performance.
5.5" wheels make the tire cross section wider, which increases the problems with tire interference on the inside of the wheel arch and spring retainer. Small diameter springs alleviate the interference on the inside. You may have to remove material on the inside of the wheel arch to gain clearance and some tires may be difficult to fit without rubbing under some conditions.
At the front, try to not hit bumps with substantial steering lock.
Note that 185/60-13 tires are substantially smaller in diameter than 155-13 tires. You may not like the increase in revs. Try to get 185/70-13 tires, the diameter is almost the same as 165-13 tires. However, the problem is in getting high performance tires.
David
1968 36/7988
If you run 4.5" wheels, the tire pressure needs to be reduced compared with the 155-13 tires, which reduces tire life, cornering, and braking performance.
5.5" wheels make the tire cross section wider, which increases the problems with tire interference on the inside of the wheel arch and spring retainer. Small diameter springs alleviate the interference on the inside. You may have to remove material on the inside of the wheel arch to gain clearance and some tires may be difficult to fit without rubbing under some conditions.
At the front, try to not hit bumps with substantial steering lock.
Note that 185/60-13 tires are substantially smaller in diameter than 155-13 tires. You may not like the increase in revs. Try to get 185/70-13 tires, the diameter is almost the same as 165-13 tires. However, the problem is in getting high performance tires.
David
1968 36/7988
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msd1107 - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 765
- Joined: 24 Sep 2003
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