Play in the front wheels, what is it?

[thor]

I checked my front wheels the other day by grabbing the top and pulling/pushing. Slight play and slight clicking sound. On both wheels.

How much play should there be, and if not, what's worn, top wishbone link, wheel bearing, anything else?

Thor

[elansprint]

Thor

With front wheel raised of floor hold top & bottom of tyre & rock wheel if there is movement it is more than likely the wheel bearing but the good news is the fronts are on taper bearings & can be tightened after removal of split pin unless completely shot. If bearings OK you need to look at trunnion on upright or top ball joint. Lotus manual gives procedure.

regards

Ian

[thor]

But how can I tell if the bearing is OK or not? And (silly question!) how can it become loose if theres a split pin on the nut ?

May sound like a complete imbecil, but remember changing top joints on GT6 after being told by a mechanic that they were shot. I still couldn't tell from the outside by rocking. HOW much play should there be, <if any.

Thor

[types26/36]

[quote="thor"]But how can I tell if the bearing is OK or not?...........

Jack up the front, put you hand on the back plate and spin the wheel as fast as you can, if the bearing is rough you will feel it. It will ofcourse have a some sort of feel but a noisy/grinding bearing will feel bad.
Or you can strip the hub and check the bearing races for marks/pitting.

And (silly question!) how can it become loose if theres a split pin on the nut ?................................................................

Bearings are subject to wear without being unserviceable, they bed in and require routine adjustment, this is provided for by the holes in the stub axle (split pin) and the "castlellated" washer which the split pin fits through.

HOW much play should there be, <if any....................................

From memory you should have about 3-4 thou end float on a cold stubaxle, it should not be "rocked" top to bottom as this creates a false impression of the amount of play, the wheel should be moved in a lateral plane (in and out) along the stub axle length. By rocking top to bottom the play will feel excessive.
Normal practice (without the use of a D.T.I.) is to slowly tighten the bearing nut while spinning the wheel, when you come to the position of zero play turn the nut back aprox 90 degrees (+ -) and fit the castlellated washer in the position where the split pin will go through. You may have to move the nut some more to suit the holes. It is better to have slightly more play then the bearing being preloaded as it will overheat with preload.
Brian

[Hamish Coutts]

Thor,

I agree with Brian. I've just checked the manual and it says to adjust the bearing (by tightening the nut) and when you get to the position where there is no play, loosen the nut by 1 flat and insert the split pin. There should always be some play in the bearing. With tapered bearings, if in doubt, err on the loose side (but only slightly).

I find that when a bearing is rough, you can hear it inside the car. Find a nice smooth piece of road, knock the car out of gear and free wheel along it - you'll soon hear any failing bearings.

Hamish.

[thor]

Thanks for good advice, now: Where is the safest place in the front to jack up the spyder spaceframe (placement of the jack)?

Thor

[Hamish Coutts]

Thor,

Either use the jacking points on the cills (check they have not been weakened by corosion) to lift a corner at a time or use the vacuum tank to lift the whole of the front of the car. This is the cylindrical cross member on the chassis. You can't mistake it - it has a tow loop attached and it's vertically below the radiator. From memory the cylinder is about 3? inches in diameter.
I have a small wooden plate on my Jack to protect the cross member from damage and the jack slipping!

Hamish

[chrishewett]

Hamish,
Do you actually use the sill jacking points? I have replaced my inner sills but am still afraid to use the jacking points. I havn't worked out yet what I am going to do when I get a puncture on the road!
Sorry to hijack this thread.
Chris

[berni29]

Hi Guys

As far as clicking noises from the front go, dont forget that if you rotate the wheels while you are checking for play, you will sometimes get a click from the brake pads as they move in the caliper.

Berni

[thor]

And while I'm at it, how can I tell if the top ball joint is shot?

And: gear oil in the trunnions, not grease, right?

T

[rgh0]

There should be no free play in the top ball joint when the weight is off the wheel assembly, any play means its shot. Also If the rubber seal is damaged then water will get in and it will fail soon.

As for grease or oil in the trunnion its up to you. Lotus recommended oil but grease is actully the right technical lubricant for a joint of this design. In practice both work, so make your own choice.

Rohan

[Hamish Coutts]

Hi Chris,

My +2 had galvanised sills fitted by the PO and they seem solid enough. My scissors jack has a pin on it that fits into the jacking point on the sill. What happens when I get a puncture on the road? - don't know as I'm sure with the tyre flat, the jacking point will be too low to get the jack under.
I've got one of these Holts aerosol thingies that inject a moose and compressed air into a punctured tyre to get you going again. Haven't tried it but I hope it works when I need it. (Did you know that Sod's law says that you only get a puncture when it's raining?)

Hamish.

[types26/36]

you only get a puncture when it's raining?) Hamish.

Must be something about water as wipers only stop working when its raining
Brian