I can't get my wheel nuts off!
22 posts
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Hi
I've recently switched from 3 eared spinners to octagon fasteners and I ran into a completely unexpected problem when removing the nuts.
Mine's a 2 seater which compounds the problem- on concrete if trying to undo the nut on the front the car is so light the wheel itself actually turns when applying force- sticking it in gear etc has no effect. Eventually what I had to do was chock the wheel with a small block of wood but even then the car was trying to "climb" up it. Tightening is not a problem.
Maybe my experience is unusual but I'd suggest owners of 2 seaters with these fasteners carry some sort of wedge- and don't have a puncture on soft ground unless you have a passenger with you who can apply the brakes whilst you remove the wheel!
John
I've recently switched from 3 eared spinners to octagon fasteners and I ran into a completely unexpected problem when removing the nuts.
Mine's a 2 seater which compounds the problem- on concrete if trying to undo the nut on the front the car is so light the wheel itself actually turns when applying force- sticking it in gear etc has no effect. Eventually what I had to do was chock the wheel with a small block of wood but even then the car was trying to "climb" up it. Tightening is not a problem.
Maybe my experience is unusual but I'd suggest owners of 2 seaters with these fasteners carry some sort of wedge- and don't have a puncture on soft ground unless you have a passenger with you who can apply the brakes whilst you remove the wheel!
John
- worzel
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 611
- Joined: 13 Jan 2004
worzel wrote:Hi
I've recently switched from 3 eared spinners to octagon fasteners and I ran into a completely unexpected problem when removing the nuts.
Mine's a 2 seater which compounds the problem- on concrete if trying to undo the nut on the front the car is so light the wheel itself actually turns when applying force- sticking it in gear etc has no effect. Eventually what I had to do was chock the wheel with a small block of wood but even then the car was trying to "climb" up it. Tightening is not a problem.
Maybe my experience is unusual but I'd suggest owners of 2 seaters with these fasteners carry some sort of wedge- and don't have a puncture on soft ground unless you have a passenger with you who can apply the brakes whilst you remove the wheel!
John
The solution to this problem is to cut a length of strapping (wood lath) to a distance of the brake pedal depressed and edge of the seat frame and wedge it in between. This will hold the brakes on while you undo the offending nut. It works when checking brake lights by yourself too.
Gary
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garyeanderson - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2626
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Gary and John,
The three eared and the octagon spinners should have the same threads and if they are holding 200 to 220 ft/lbs of torque, they should stay on. I have been told not to grease Lotus spinners or over torque them.
Gary, you are right if you are alone, a board to hold the brake on is a great idea. It works if you don't have a block for the wheel. If you are using a breaker bar or a torque wrench it is easy to spin the front wheels.
200 to 220 ft/lbs of torque will keep the spinners tight. It takes a little more to loosen them, so if you use a torque wrench make sure you dial up the torque when removing the spinners as it may damage a torque wrench, Also make sure the torque wrench is reversible.
Sarto
The three eared and the octagon spinners should have the same threads and if they are holding 200 to 220 ft/lbs of torque, they should stay on. I have been told not to grease Lotus spinners or over torque them.
Gary, you are right if you are alone, a board to hold the brake on is a great idea. It works if you don't have a block for the wheel. If you are using a breaker bar or a torque wrench it is easy to spin the front wheels.
200 to 220 ft/lbs of torque will keep the spinners tight. It takes a little more to loosen them, so if you use a torque wrench make sure you dial up the torque when removing the spinners as it may damage a torque wrench, Also make sure the torque wrench is reversible.
Sarto
lotus elan 1966 S3 FHC
36/5785
LHD
36/5785
LHD
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mac5777 - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 501
- Joined: 05 Jul 2004
andyhodg wrote:Another solution is to use the spanner in an attitude where you are pushing down on the spanner rather than lifting. That way your effort increases the load on the tyre rather than reducings it and causing it to spin.
Andy
Problem with that is most people can apply much more leverage by lifting than they can by pushing down, ie they can (reasonably) comfortably lift more than their own weight.
- hatman
- Third Gear
- Posts: 366
- Joined: 05 Oct 2004
With regards to leverage and a comfortable angle to tighten or loosen a spinner, a 9:30 or a 2:30 o'clock position with a downward force is the easiest on my old back and I can judge the 200 ft/lbs. of torque without a torque wrench after I have got the feel of that torque. I explain it in more detail in the Business Vendors Listings under knockoff tool.
Hatman, it is easier for me to use my weight with the leverage I get from a long breaker bar or a torque wrench as long as I can stay in, what I call the sweet spot (in the 9:30 or a 2:30 o'clock position). I now use a 25 inch, reversible, ratcheted torque wrench with no less than 250 ft/lbs max. I use gravity leaning into it. I'm not lifting the 200 lbs, the leverage works to lessen the actual force needed. Using a ratcheted breaker bar/torque wrench keeps me in the easiest controlled position to know the torque and not over tighten the spinner nuts. Over tightening the spinners may damage the spinner's threads and/or hubs.
Personally, I don't like the nader nuts for looks and the spanner wrench slips off too easily. Another stupid USA safety thing, of removing the spinner ears. They must have just watched James Bond tear up another car and thought we needed protecting. If anyone knows more about "WHY NADER" I'm curious.
Just some thoughts, Sarto
Hatman, it is easier for me to use my weight with the leverage I get from a long breaker bar or a torque wrench as long as I can stay in, what I call the sweet spot (in the 9:30 or a 2:30 o'clock position). I now use a 25 inch, reversible, ratcheted torque wrench with no less than 250 ft/lbs max. I use gravity leaning into it. I'm not lifting the 200 lbs, the leverage works to lessen the actual force needed. Using a ratcheted breaker bar/torque wrench keeps me in the easiest controlled position to know the torque and not over tighten the spinner nuts. Over tightening the spinners may damage the spinner's threads and/or hubs.
Personally, I don't like the nader nuts for looks and the spanner wrench slips off too easily. Another stupid USA safety thing, of removing the spinner ears. They must have just watched James Bond tear up another car and thought we needed protecting. If anyone knows more about "WHY NADER" I'm curious.
Just some thoughts, Sarto
lotus elan 1966 S3 FHC
36/5785
LHD
36/5785
LHD
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mac5777 - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 501
- Joined: 05 Jul 2004
I just stand on the bloody spanner, body weight does just fine.
Gordon
Gordon
1972 LHD Sprint 5 Cabriolet - sold!
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freddy22112211 - Second Gear
- Posts: 160
- Joined: 21 Sep 2003
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