Wheel Spinner torque setting/brake fluid

[106500]

Could anyone advise the torque settings for my three wing wheel spinners please. I have recently acquired a tool which can be used with a torque wrench thus avoiding use of a hammer! My Elan is an S4. Thanks.

Also, just how necessary is it for me to replace the brake fluid periodically? Mine has been in the car for the 4+ years I've had it - I havn't had any problems.

[john.p.clegg]

Off the top of my head the figure of 220 ft/lbs comes to mind...........

John

[ElliottN]

200 ft/lbs for the spinners.
I'd be thinking of changing the brake fluid soon - they may feel fine but any water collecting in there will ultimately be causing corrosion (e.g. caliper pistons). 4-5 years is pushing it.
rgds,

[ElliottN]

200 ft/lbs for the spinners.
I'd be thinking of changing the brake fluid soon - they may feel fine but any water collecting in there will ultimately be causing corrosion (e.g. caliper pistons). 4-5 years is pushing it.
rgds,

[bcmc33]

Not trying to be a smart-ass, but the spinner torque setting should be at 210 lbsf ft. (285Nm)

Technically, (according to current OEM standards), the brake fluid should be changed at 2 yearly intervals. But in reality, it depends on how hard you drive and brake in order to make any water ingress into the brake fluid have any detrimental affect. Under persistent hard braking conditions the calipers can heat-up sufficiently to make any water content boil ? and as you can imagine, this will have a serious affect on braking performance.
The potential corrosion is a secondary issue, but will become a problem if the car is not normally garaged and the brake fluid not changed for about 10 years.

Water ingress generally occurs through the caliper seals, so I play safe with an annual maintenance routine of 5/6 pedal bleeds at each caliper - which I believe should be adequate to keep the car in good condition.

Brian Clarke
(1972 Sprint)

[mac5777]

Hi 106500
No matter what tool you use I think the torque would be the same for our 3 eared spinners.
If you go to the BUSINESS AND VENDOR LISTINGS and open my listing mac5777 you will see this:
I saw data, which I now cannot find, that Lotus recommended 160 to 180 ft/lbs of torque. I did find in my lotus manual data showing 200 to 220 ft/lbs of torque for the octagon earless spinners. I use 200 ft/lbs of torque with no problems. Hitting your spinners with a hammer you will never know what torque has been beat on and possibly damaging them. Getting over torque wheels off can be a real chore. I have been told by a lotus body shop that an extension bar broke, trying to loosen an over tightened spinner.
Brian says 210 which is right in the middle. I do suggest checking them from time to time regardless what settings you use.

Elliott uses what torque I use (200) Others have said that they were surprised that it took that much torque.

Sarto

[bcmc33]

Hello Sarto,

I use your spinner tool with a large snap torque wrench set at 210 lbsf ft.

The Brian Buckland book states that the octagonal Federal nuts should be torqued to 160-180 lbsf ft, but does not mention the spinners.

Just to muddy the waters a little ? I use my spinners with a little smear of copper-slip grease on the thread. I know this issue has been discussed on this forum many times and opinions are divided equally on the grease/no grease application. Brian Buckland does comment that although Lotus recommends no greasing ? he uses copper slip.

I?ve had this discussion many times with friends that have wire wheel cars ? they are generally agreed that the hub splines are greased but the hub threads not.

It is well known that the actual tension created by a set torque will be different between threads greased and not greased. In terms of standard fasteners, the difference is in the region of 20%. It is interesting to know that 160 lbsf ft greased provides the some clamp load as 200 lbsf ft ungreased ? which, of course, is the 20% factor. Having said this however, I don?t feel comfortable tightening less than 200 lbsf ft.

I would be interested to know if there should be any difference between steel and alloy wheel applications.


Brian Clarke
(1972 Sprint)

[pamitchell]

I follow the 200 ft/lb rule for my KO spinners. I use Sarto's K/O tool with a 12 in bar. Standing on the end of the bar gives the required 200 ft/lb
force needed. Probably more if I weighed myself recently!
Phil

[106500]

Regarding the replacement of the brake fluid, I'm thinking that the easiest way to bleed the system is to raise the car and remove all four wheels. Whats the best way to do this? i.e it seems to me that I should'nt use the conventional jacking points on the body for 4 x axle stands as the whole chassis will in effect be hanging off the body! Thoughts appreciated.

Also, whats best way to drain the fluid - just pump it through each bleed nipple in turn using the brake pedal Thanks.

[john.p.clegg]

I have four scissor jacks slightly modified with a 1" box section fitted on the tops,these are made to fit,at the front under the arms just in from the lower suspension mountings,and at the rear,under the A frames right next to the upright mountings...........so can lift all four corners remove the wheels and play to my hearts content.........

John

[oldokie]

I use a floor jack under the center of the chassis, a bit aft of mid-point, then set stands as John described, this method also is handy for moving the car about the shop or turning it around.