Suspension geometry and tyres
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Having just fitted a good pair of secondhand front springs and shocks my already tight 175/80 tyres started rubbing the wheelarch. I intended to replace them with Falken FK-07U 175/70, the same as my spare but have today found out that they are no longer made. I need to order some tyres this week and now have no idea what to buy.
I have read numerous threads on this subject but what are you guys using now?
Second problem. The front tyres were badly worn on the inside indicating negative camber. The manual says this cannot be adjusted. Could this have been caused by the old knackered springs? Roadholding has been vastly improved by the new ones. Wishbones etc are good and the car has been fitted with all new bushes in the last few years.
Life is one damn thing after another!
Chris
I have read numerous threads on this subject but what are you guys using now?
Second problem. The front tyres were badly worn on the inside indicating negative camber. The manual says this cannot be adjusted. Could this have been caused by the old knackered springs? Roadholding has been vastly improved by the new ones. Wishbones etc are good and the car has been fitted with all new bushes in the last few years.
Life is one damn thing after another!
Chris
- chrishewett
- Third Gear
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- Joined: 06 Oct 2003
Chris.
Just for clarity, can you confirm that standard length springs are fitted, and that wheel bearings, disk run-out etc are within tolerance?
I understand the frustration....... been there recently with my Sprint.
Similar problems, but the rear axle.
Regards,
Stuart.
Just for clarity, can you confirm that standard length springs are fitted, and that wheel bearings, disk run-out etc are within tolerance?
I understand the frustration....... been there recently with my Sprint.
Similar problems, but the rear axle.
Regards,
Stuart.
- stuartgb100
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 813
- Joined: 10 Sep 2005
Chris.
Just for clarity, can you confirm that standard length springs are fitted, and that wheel bearings, disk run-out etc are within tolerance?
I understand the frustration....... been there recently with my Sprint.
Similar problems, but the rear axle.
Regards,
Stuart.
Just for clarity, can you confirm that standard length springs are fitted, and that wheel bearings, disk run-out etc are within tolerance?
I understand the frustration....... been there recently with my Sprint.
Similar problems, but the rear axle.
Regards,
Stuart.
- stuartgb100
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 813
- Joined: 10 Sep 2005
Ah............ an echo !
rollocks !!!
Regards.
rollocks !!!
Regards.
- stuartgb100
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 813
- Joined: 10 Sep 2005
I am pretty sure that springs are standard. Bearings and run-out are ok. I am just begining to worry that the camber problem is a chassis turret problem. However they look good and the wear is almost the same on both sides. If it is a chassis problem there will be another +2 being broken for spares!
Chris
Chris
- chrishewett
- Third Gear
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Chris...if the worst comes to the worst, a chassis change is a very easy task, and certainly no reason to scrap the car. It's also a great opportunity to overhaul all those bits that are not easily accesible with the body on...the brake pipes, handbrake tree / rods / cable, and of course, all the suspension / steering bushes etc. etc. A very satisfying job, that results in the car feeling reborn!
In terms of effort, it takes me about one weekend to get the body off and start striping the old chassis, finish stripping the chassis and get all the bits off for blasting / powder coating etc during the following week in the evenings, a weekend and a few evenings to build the new chassis up, and one more weekend to put the body back on the chassis. I'm no engineer, just an enthusiastic amateur. Just made a lot of Airfix kits as a kid!
We're lucky in the UK as there are so many Plus 2s being broken...a new looking galvanised chassis just sold on eBay for ?150, so the job doesn't have to break the bank either.
Mark
In terms of effort, it takes me about one weekend to get the body off and start striping the old chassis, finish stripping the chassis and get all the bits off for blasting / powder coating etc during the following week in the evenings, a weekend and a few evenings to build the new chassis up, and one more weekend to put the body back on the chassis. I'm no engineer, just an enthusiastic amateur. Just made a lot of Airfix kits as a kid!
We're lucky in the UK as there are so many Plus 2s being broken...a new looking galvanised chassis just sold on eBay for ?150, so the job doesn't have to break the bank either.
Mark
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Elanintheforest - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Chris
Trying to raise the doom and gloom talk of chassis changes - from what you have said it seems unlikely to me that you have a chassis problem.
You were presumably reasonably happy with the way the car drove for the years before you changed your front springs?
You say it looks ok in the turrets
The car drives with better roadholding now with the new springs.
Are you sure that the tyre wear is not caused by the tracking being out.
Can I suggest that you put a spirit level vertically against the wheels at straight ahead position to get an estimate of the amount of camber that you have and compare that to the factory figures.
In respect of tyre choice can you borrow some wheels from anyone with 165 r 13 or 165/80 r13 on. If you could try two on the front you would know if the car looks right, arch clearance etc and how it drives. If you dont know anyone locally I will happy bring two down to Donington if you are going providing that you can return them to Retford in Nottinghamshire within a week or two
Dave
Trying to raise the doom and gloom talk of chassis changes - from what you have said it seems unlikely to me that you have a chassis problem.
You were presumably reasonably happy with the way the car drove for the years before you changed your front springs?
You say it looks ok in the turrets
The car drives with better roadholding now with the new springs.
Are you sure that the tyre wear is not caused by the tracking being out.
Can I suggest that you put a spirit level vertically against the wheels at straight ahead position to get an estimate of the amount of camber that you have and compare that to the factory figures.
In respect of tyre choice can you borrow some wheels from anyone with 165 r 13 or 165/80 r13 on. If you could try two on the front you would know if the car looks right, arch clearance etc and how it drives. If you dont know anyone locally I will happy bring two down to Donington if you are going providing that you can return them to Retford in Nottinghamshire within a week or two
Dave
- Dave_Newcastle
- Second Gear
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Chris, I agree with Dave.
I also believe if the front wheels are toed out the inside rubber will wear. Knackered springs could also cause it.
I have Michelins on my little Elan and love them, I have BF Goodrich on the +2 and they're lousy on a Lotus. Eric
I also believe if the front wheels are toed out the inside rubber will wear. Knackered springs could also cause it.
I have Michelins on my little Elan and love them, I have BF Goodrich on the +2 and they're lousy on a Lotus. Eric
- 1964 S1
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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Thanks for the support.
I have checked the wheels with a spirit level and there is definately a lot of negative camber, maybe as much as 5 degrees. The situation doesn't look good but I am taking the car to a friends garage on saturday and we will measure and check everything so I should know exactly what the problem is.
I hope it is not the chassis as I could not face a chassis change after seven years of changing everything else!
Chris
I have checked the wheels with a spirit level and there is definately a lot of negative camber, maybe as much as 5 degrees. The situation doesn't look good but I am taking the car to a friends garage on saturday and we will measure and check everything so I should know exactly what the problem is.
I hope it is not the chassis as I could not face a chassis change after seven years of changing everything else!
Chris
- chrishewett
- Third Gear
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- Joined: 06 Oct 2003
Chris,
If you need to borrow them to check for fit etc., I have a set of +2 alloys with 165*80s fitted.
They are a spare set.
Anything to help prevent a chassis change.
Hamish.
If you need to borrow them to check for fit etc., I have a set of +2 alloys with 165*80s fitted.
They are a spare set.
Anything to help prevent a chassis change.
Hamish.
"One day I'll finish the restoration - honest, darling, just a few more years....."
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Hamish Coutts - Third Gear
- Posts: 498
- Joined: 29 Jun 2004
I have just got back from the garage checking the suspension and here are the results.
We can find no obvious problem with the turrets. After minute examination there appears to be no rust, cracks, movement or defects of any kind. However the distance between the two turret tops may be up to 1.5mm less than the distance stated in the manual (755.65mm) . This may not be significant as it is difficult to measure accurately and may not be that different.
All bushes etc were perfect and no problem with wheelbearings or runout.
The tracking was way out. Toe-out was 6mm when it should be nearly 5mm in.
It still appears to have a little negative camber.
I am hoping that the tracking was the main cause of the tyre wear.
Would the tracking being out affect the camber? After adjusting the tracking the camber seems to be less but hasn't been measured with the proper equipment.
I will now fit the new tyres ( 175/70 ) and recheck the tracking. Fingers crossed.
Since fitting the new carbs ( 40dcoe 151 ) it goes like stink and holds the road like it should.
Chris
We can find no obvious problem with the turrets. After minute examination there appears to be no rust, cracks, movement or defects of any kind. However the distance between the two turret tops may be up to 1.5mm less than the distance stated in the manual (755.65mm) . This may not be significant as it is difficult to measure accurately and may not be that different.
All bushes etc were perfect and no problem with wheelbearings or runout.
The tracking was way out. Toe-out was 6mm when it should be nearly 5mm in.
It still appears to have a little negative camber.
I am hoping that the tracking was the main cause of the tyre wear.
Would the tracking being out affect the camber? After adjusting the tracking the camber seems to be less but hasn't been measured with the proper equipment.
I will now fit the new tyres ( 175/70 ) and recheck the tracking. Fingers crossed.
Since fitting the new carbs ( 40dcoe 151 ) it goes like stink and holds the road like it should.
Chris
- chrishewett
- Third Gear
- Posts: 407
- Joined: 06 Oct 2003
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