Rear wheel bearing removal

[stuartgb100]

Has anyone discovered a proprietary tool (off the shelf) to successfully remove the stub axle from the alloy housing?

I thought that with the knock on hubs finally off, I was home and dry, but it looks as if I'm going to have to go and spend money on something to help.

Regards.

[type26owner]

The axle to outer bearing inner race is suppose to be an interference fit. That commonly wears out from fretting and then goes into a 'creep' wearing mode that makes a rather deep groove.

Remove the retaining ring from the inside bearing holding it into the strut aluminum housing. Heat up the aluminum with a couple of heatlamps to about 300F and the axle and inner bearing will nearly fall out.

[stuartgb100]

Everything I'd read/seen said do not apply even a modicum of heat to the alloy housing, so I'd been faffing about trying to concoct some sort of ad-hoc tool from a mixture of press/puller bits and pieces lying around. However the three-pronged inner end of the stub axle was forever in the way.

Presumably when up to the said temperature, a gentle tap on a protective
nut on the threaded end of the stub axle will suffice?

Thanks.

[type26owner]

It didn't come from the factory with the assembly Loctited. If it was ever repaired it's highly like it was though. You should glue it all back together again if you don't want fretting damage to take place everywhere. The anaerobic adhesives melt above 300F.

That's a funny one being told not to heat up the strut housing. The dampener may be affected by the heat but I doubt it. Call the manufacturer to get their input to be safe. The oil in the pocket around the insert is no problem. Just remove the insert first and then the element of danger falls nearly to zero.

[Hamish Coutts]

Guys,

Go with what Keith says.

Remove the inner circlip and apply a bit of heat. The bearing should literaly drop out. I learned this from hard experience. Afterwards cool the driveshaft to remove the bearing from it just as easily.
My strut was knackered and I had to get a new set of fabricated ones from Spyder. These were steel and I now feel a lot more secure (if less original). My choice, though. Bearings were a 'tap' fit in the new struts.

Hamish.

[cliveyboy]

I think the reason they advise against applying heat is as soon as you mention that "Joe Public" grabs the blow torch.
If ever I want to heat up something gently I use a hot air gun.
I think when I worked it out the housing only needs warming up by 60 degree C for the rear bearing to fit.
This is also handy for removal as if you warm up the housing and keep the bearing cool (tricky) it should come out in theory.
The bearings should be OK upto (IIRK) about 120 degrees C before you damage them so you have a margin of error.
If you gently ply the heat to the housing and not directly onto the bearing you should not cause any damage with a hot air gun.

Clive

[stuartgb100]

Thanks all for the help. Bowed to peer pressure and used gentle heat, then a couple of light taps with an hammer. Just got to draw off the inner bearings, now.
Next will be Mr. Bean's stress riser removal ritual, then lap the hubs, before putting it all back together.

Might even make time to watch some rugby.

Regards and thanks.