Oversteer on corners

[Orsom Weels]

I already tried two nuts on the end of the thread + hammer. There is not enough space to swing it properly. I'm not trying to pull the spindle out at the threaded end, all I need to do is break the rust bond, then I can grind the peened over end back and draw the spindle out.

I suspect that with heating it up & wacking it with a lump hammer, the spindle has swollen tight into the tube already.

But I'm beginning to suspect it is bent. There was no rust on the other three.

Bloody nightmare.

There may also have been a slight bend on the spindle which is also restricting any movement in the direction you are attempting, but that tube is fairly thick walled & well supported each end where it is welded through the crossmember. It would require a massive hit to bend it, the spindle would have to be significantly & very noticeably bent, if not sheered off all together to cause that kind of damage, & then it would likely only be just the exposed end of the tube that would be damaged or there would be witness marks on the crossmember.
I think you need to try to remove it in the other direction. If you don't have good access to give it a decent hit using the method I described earlier, then make up something to push it out. Something like two lengths of stout channel, drill one in the centre to go over the stub of the spindle & bear against the tube, then drill each end of both to accept some studding or long bolts. Place the second piece of channel behind the turret bearing against the spindle & pull the two together with the studding/bolts, one above the crossmember & behind the turret, the other opposite it, just clearing the bottom corner where the crossmember & turret join. Tightening the studding will have the effect of pushing the spindle forwards & out. Again, a little heat & a well placed hit when under tension won't hurt.
There's still lots to try before we admit defeat & start chopping the tube out.

BBB has some good suggestions for getting the car back on four wheels to move it if that becomes necessary, you may even find that it would roll onto a trailer with just the rear wishbone in place.

All the best, Tim

[vincereynard]

To have any hope of a releasing fluid working the part has to be immersed. Could you make up a temporary "bath" attached to the chassis corner that would allow that? Something acetone proof.

Acetone is so volatile that brushing it on would just leave a thin coat of ATF after a few seconds.

[JonB]

One of these - but unavailable at the moment...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/1-5-13-drill-c ... B004J480AA

It's the right length for drilling the bottom spindle as it allows the drill to clear the underside of the car's nose.

Hmm, maybe this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222618056892 though it is SDS plus. I have an SDS drill, it's very large and heavy, but will have the power to drill the spindle out I think.

I'm still concerned about keeping it square while drilling.

[vincereynard]

To have any hope of a releasing fluid working the part has to be immersed. Could you make up a temporary "bath" attached to the chassis corner that would allow that? Something acetone proof.

Acetone is so volatile that brushing it on would just leave a thin coat of ATF after a few seconds.

Plan B the above .
Obtain a length of clear tubing that can be forced over the exposed support tube. Clamp it with a hose clip. Lift the open end up as high as practical and fill the tube with your favourite release fluid. Plug the open end with ??? and push it in so it applies pressure.

Plan C the above.
Fix a tyre valve in the open end and gentle pressurise it. I have done this before, if I can find it I'll send you a pic.

Do the same at the cut spindle end with a short length of tube, also blocked off. (Or the fluid will find its way through any small gap and leave the rest untouched.)

[JonB]

Obtain a length of clear tubing that can be forced over the exposed support tube. Clamp it with a hose clip. Lift the open end up as high as practical and fill the tube with your favourite release fluid. Plug the open end with ??? and push it in so it applies pressure.

Great minds think alike, Vince!

Just got to find some tube... this might work IF (that's a big 'if') the tube / spindle turns out not to be bent.

[vincereynard]

Plan ?

Reverse the situation. Fit the long/pressure pipe to the cut end. Block of the other end with a short pipe between support and spindle thread. Leaving a portion of the thread exposed.

Fit a nut to the spindle and tap on the flats to (hopefully) encourage the fluid to creep.

Good Luck!

[mbell]

Vince tube idea is genius! Personally I'd do that and forget about it for a week to let the fluid do it stuff.

I think Tim's idea to try push it out is also good. Is there room to fit a three leg puller? If so I'd make a big thick spreader to go on the front of the chassis and use the puller against that to try push the pin out, being very careful to keep it all square.

[billwill]

I doubt if any commercial puller could be used on this job.

To make a puller which will push it out sawn end first, get some steel flat stock and some long threaded bar (i suggest at least 10 mm thread, plus nuts.

Drill three holes in two pieces of flat steel bar the centre hole on one side to fit over the spindle and press against a nut that you have screwed all the way down the available damaged thread. The two outer holes of each flat bar should be just clearance for the threaded bar. the centre hole of the rear steel bar to be big enough to allow the whole suspension tube to fit through it.

Assemble the rig onto the car, using two threaded bars in the outer holes spanning right across the outside of the lower chassis member.

Slowly tightening the nuts on the threaded bars will then exert force on the spindle from the threaded end through to the cut end.

Threaded ROR should read as Threaded Rod.

Puller for stuck suspension spindle ?

[Orsom Weels]

I doubt if any commercial puller could be used on this job.

To make a puller which will push it out sawn end first, get some steel flat stock and some long threaded bar (i suggest at least 10 mm thread, plus nuts.

Drill three holes in two pieces of flat steel bar the centre hole on one side to fit over the spindle and press against a nut that you have screwed all the way down the available damaged thread. The two outer holes of each flat bar should be just clearance for the threaded bar. the centre hole of the rear steel bar to be big enough to allow the whole suspension tube to fit through it.

Assemble the rig onto the car, using two threaded bars in the outer holes spanning right across the outside of the lower chassis member.

Slowly tightening the nuts on the threaded bars will then exert force on the spindle from the threaded end through to the cut end.

Threaded ROR should read as Threaded Rod.

JonBpuller.jpeg

Essentially just what I suggested above except I would use channel or box section for extra strength But Bill is clever enough to include a diagram

[c42]

Hi John

In the past when in need of a long drill bit I have resharpened a long masonry drill bit, these will even drill hardened steel and are available in plain or SDS.

Regards
John

[vincereynard]

With the "pressure" tube connected to the cut end (Plan ??) you could do both.

Inject release fluid under pressure AND put a force on the end of the spindle.

[elanfan1]

Here's another idea - bear in mind i am no engineer so I could be talking crap!

Drill it out using a smaller diameter drill leaving enough behind so it doesn't matter if the hole isn't absolutely square/straight. Then use a narrow bladed hacksaw or even a tile saw to cut into opposite edges of the hole and you should then be able to knock it out. A fair bit of effort but probably quicker than soaking it.

[billwill]

Essentially just what I suggested above except I would use channel or box section for extra strength But Bill is clever enough to include a diagram

Your description was what triggered my message. I have built such a puller recently, but smaller to push out a stuck bolt in the trunnion bush, but I haven't actually used it yet.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~

If Spyder have gone to the trouble of making a special jig to fix this, it must be a fairly common problem ?

[JonB]

@Bill
Nice diagram! I was thinking along those lines last night but using something stronger like a section of I beam such as you find on a press. I'd dreamed up a sort of calliper with a bottle jack, as I found the threads are not strong enough to sustain the pressure.

[rgh0]

I think the idea of trying to push the acetone and ATF mixture under pressure in from each end of the chassis tube is a good one. Drilling and tapping the tube for a grease nipple to enable it to injected under pressure from a grease gun or similar may work better than trying to fit a tube over the pin that will take any significant pressure without blowing off

If I was going to try to drill out the pin from the tube using a 90 degree angle drive in a hand held drill I would make up a pilot guide that sits over the tube and centres the drill on the pin and keeps it straight as it goes in. once you have a small hole in the pin you can drill it out larger and larger or get a fin saw blade to cut it until the pin collapses.

cheers
Rohan