Oversteer on corners

[661]

Weld a big nut on whats left of the thread,impact driver,heat the surrounding chassis,cool the nut/spindle ?

John

+1

[pauljones]

Plus 2...(im sure theres a joke there somewhere)

[MarkDa]

I'm not convinced that Jon's feeling particularly jokey about this job!

[JonB]

I do not think an impact driver will fit between the threaded end and the bulkhead. Certainly, there would be no space to swing a hammer. I considered welding the nut to the threaded portion but that would mean I could never use the "nuts and spacer" pulling technique again. Moreover, if I did weld a nut to it and try to turn it with a breaker bar, I'd run the risk of shearing the spindle in half. Every time I whack it, a little more damage gets done to the stub at the leading end. I do not want to heat the chassis as it will no doubt buckle in some way, or be otherwise weakened. There is no direct access to the spindle sleeve, as it is embedded in the lower front cross member; this means direct heat cannot be applied apart from at the end bits (about 1cm each side).

I don't have oxy-acetylene at my disposal.

So you can see, my options are limited. Anyone who would like to visit and have a look at it would be welcome..

[Chancer]

Have made up a thick wall spacer, see if you can find a flange nut of the right thread, if not weld a large diameter thick washer to a standard nut then try jacking it out.

If not find someone with oxy-acetylene, preferably a mechanic who is used to persuading seized parts to undo, 1cm at each end is more than enough exposed sleeve to expand it (it will conduct the heat) and the corrosion holding it together will not go any deeper.

[pauljones]

Jon.

I eventually managed to uncover my sypder chassis. The top wishbone has a 8 to 10inch bolt going straight through for the top mounts. The frame has 1in bosses on both sides of the frame uprights. These look square and the long bolts go through very easily.
Heating up both bosses may help. I would also check for damage perhaps evidence of twisting just to rule that out.
I cant see any other reason why yours wouldnt be free to run.

My garage friend suggested an impact socket and longest knuckle bar you can get to try and rotate it.

Hope it helps

[vxah]

What about an inductance heating kit? Used in the motor trade for heating seized bolts etc, a heavy wire loop goes around the part sticking out and the heavy current would then heat the spindle..

[billwill]

What about an inductance heating kit? Used in the motor trade for heating seized bolts etc, a heavy wire loop goes around the part sticking out and the heavy current would then heat the spindle..

I think heating the spindle would be a bad idea, best to cool the spindle and heat the tube (somehow).

[MarkDa]

Are the spindles supported in a tube or two bosses?

[mbell]

Are the spindles supported in a tube or two bosses?

I believe it is tube. Would be difficult to manufacturer with two bosses and line them up.

The things I would try:
1) Put a tougher spacer that the bush tube between nut and torque it up and leave it for a few days, checking/torquing every so often. Maybe give a few taps with hammer for some shock every so often. (Could also try heating the spacer to make it expand and pull the spindle out rather than risk stripping the nut/thread)

2) Lock two nuts on the spindle and use breaker bar or impact wrench to try rotate it in position and break it free.

3) Use some kind of puller/suspension separator tool (e.g. ball joint). Put strong piece of metal over the spindle and fit multiple nuts to secure it on the spindle & get very good thread engagement. Then use the puller/tool between the chassis and the metal piece to force them apart.

[Bud English]

C4?
Everything else has been suggested.

[pauljones]

As hes uk based id say PE6/7, Strangley one of my favourite past times. Not sure the rest would survive but at least the top bolt would be free,if you could find it.

[JonB]

I think it's a tube too, it has to be or the crossmember it passes through wouldn't be gas tight for the vacuum operated headlights. Will be applying the acetone / atf mix this weekend, let's see if that helps. Meanwhile, have been spraying it every day with releasing fluid (an off the shelf product). This may or may not be helping..

[nmauduit]

What about an inductance heating kit? Used in the motor trade for heating seized bolts etc, a heavy wire loop goes around the part sticking out and the heavy current would then heat the spindle..

inductance heating is a very efficient way for applying localized heat, though a dedicated setup is hard to justify in conventional garage environment, esp. if one want a bit of versatility and enough power to solve problems that can't be solved otherwise.

For getting parts unstuck, I see the application of heat as one way to brake metallic or corrosion micro bonds due to thermal expansion, not to get clearance (like one would to do to insert valve seats, with no heat conduction before a swift positioning of the parts).

The problem with the case at hand may lie in some bending of the spindle, from a former front collision of otherwise, and the resulting kink would add resistance to eventual corrosion: it may then be only possible to pull it from the other side (if not bent both sides), so as not to scrape the kink through the tube (if that added resistance is such that it overcomes the resistance of the tube, one way to weaken the spindle would be drilling it, so that it becomes more flexible)... how did the spindle or suspension look before being sawn off ?

[JonB]

I posted pictures earlier on in the thread.

Only one side of the spindle has been cut off. The other side still has a full thread and might be slightly bent. I'm not sure because I cannot get underneath it. Car is mounted too low. Either way it's marginal if bent.