Steering column bracket thread
24 posts
• Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
First thoughts- If you are going to have the car raised then it'll be easy enough to get at the diff end so you should be able to either have the shaft in the tunnel or feed on from rear.
After research - Yes
viewtopic.php?f=37&t=37586&start=
After research - Yes
viewtopic.php?f=37&t=37586&start=
- MarkDa
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1113
- Joined: 15 Apr 2017
Jon,
Whilst I know your car is a plus two and mine is an S4, I also thought that the engine might go in from underneath. However I tried, I could not get the cylinder head pass through the chassis, the block will, but I could not fit the complete engine.
My understanding is that the Elan and Elan plus two chassis are the same in the area around the engine.
Richard Hawkins
Whilst I know your car is a plus two and mine is an S4, I also thought that the engine might go in from underneath. However I tried, I could not get the cylinder head pass through the chassis, the block will, but I could not fit the complete engine.
My understanding is that the Elan and Elan plus two chassis are the same in the area around the engine.
Richard Hawkins
- RichardHawkins
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1280
- Joined: 05 Jul 2008
Go for the poly bushes, unless you've cured all oil leaks these will last longer!
As for the propshaft, what I found easy was to lay the back end up over the diff. This gives room for the engine and gearbox to get into place without interference. Once they are bolted up, it is easy to bring the propshaft forward and to slide it into place. I did it alone through the hole in the side of the center hump - with a partner guiding from the rear should be a cinch. Once in all the way, just pull back to the diff flange and secure.
As for the propshaft, what I found easy was to lay the back end up over the diff. This gives room for the engine and gearbox to get into place without interference. Once they are bolted up, it is easy to bring the propshaft forward and to slide it into place. I did it alone through the hole in the side of the center hump - with a partner guiding from the rear should be a cinch. Once in all the way, just pull back to the diff flange and secure.
Henry
69 Elan S4
65 Seven S2
69 Elan S4
65 Seven S2
- SENC
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1030
- Joined: 30 Dec 2015
As you seem to distain the KISS priciple .
What about making a jig to support the engine and box in its finished position.
Source / attach a good gantry to the garage roof.
Then you could lift the body onto the engine - simple.
What about making a jig to support the engine and box in its finished position.
Source / attach a good gantry to the garage roof.
Then you could lift the body onto the engine - simple.
- vincereynard
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1071
- Joined: 12 Jan 2015
Actually for those with a 2 post lift this might be a much better solution than dangling an engine over the nose cone.
I have what I thought was a decent crane when I bought it but I had to drill an extra hole to get the reach for my sprint so it wouldn't do +2.
Added to which one needs to create a platform to sit the car on so the crane legs can go underneath.
Unfortunately my garage has a trussed roof so a lift won't work - I have a pit but it's not the same.
Mind you all this pre-supposed a Spyder chassis and whether the head will go through the chassis - does it?
I have what I thought was a decent crane when I bought it but I had to drill an extra hole to get the reach for my sprint so it wouldn't do +2.
Added to which one needs to create a platform to sit the car on so the crane legs can go underneath.
Unfortunately my garage has a trussed roof so a lift won't work - I have a pit but it's not the same.
Mind you all this pre-supposed a Spyder chassis and whether the head will go through the chassis - does it?
- MarkDa
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1113
- Joined: 15 Apr 2017
Mine did and, as they are very close no.s, there's no reason why PP should be any different.
I did buy a longer (60mm X 60 mm?) length of square tube for the crane. And had the back higher.
Slipped in no problem.
Make sure you have the mounts the right way round, that caused confusion. You can have them already fitted to the lump with the rubber mounts loosely fitted to the chassis as the engine mounted bits go in front.
I did buy a longer (60mm X 60 mm?) length of square tube for the crane. And had the back higher.
Slipped in no problem.
Make sure you have the mounts the right way round, that caused confusion. You can have them already fitted to the lump with the rubber mounts loosely fitted to the chassis as the engine mounted bits go in front.
- vincereynard
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1071
- Joined: 12 Jan 2015
24 posts
• Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
Total Online:
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 46 guests