Oversteer on corners

[Craven]

Hopefully their thread cutting and sizing is better than on the ones they supplied to me, check the nut fit NOW, mine were oversize.
Stainless is real tough stuff especially once it becomes work hardened, don?t force the nuts on you may well never get them off again. Absolutely true if you use stainless nuts, always use anti-seize grease.

[JonB]

Threads are fine, just checked them.

However, the old spindle is still stuck. I have put loads of penetrating oil on it, whacked the end with a hammer, heated it to dull cherry red, whacked it again, cooled it, oiled it again, whacked it again and had a go with a percussion drill with a chisel end. It's not budging.

[JonB]

I'm going to try a home made penetrating oil made from a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone.

As explained here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7hpmmlYBFM

No secret ingredient needed (no point wasting good hooch)!

[pauljones]

Jon

Have you had to wire brush that whole area to clean it prior to spraying with oil?

[Chancer]

Threads are fine, just checked them.

However, the old spindle is still stuck. I have put loads of penetrating oil on it, whacked the end with a hammer, heated it to dull cherry red, whacked it again, cooled it, oiled it again, whacked it again and had a go with a percussion drill with a chisel end. It's not budging.

Heating the spindle will just make it even tighter as it expands, you need to heat the bore in the chassis, easier said than done and there is the minor irritation of having combustible bodywork very close by.


Do you have any useable threads left on the spindle after giving it the good news?

If so or if you can reclaim them then you can make up a suitable spacer to try and jack it out using the thread, an air impact wrench will help.

Hammering a cherry red spindle is just as likely to rivet it even tighter in place, the heat needs to be localised to the bore retaining it and to be applied as fast as possible to prevent the heat transfer to the spindle, an oxy-acetylene torch is far better (quicker) than propane blowlamps etc.

[MarkDa]

Yes Jon you run the risk of swelling the spindle into the tube if you hit it when red.
Any heat should be directed at expanding the tube. However as it's inside the chassis leg you can only really get at the short stub sticking out.
I think your best hope may be to use an impact wrench either direct at the bottom end or to draw using a very stout tube over the stub - maybe alternately.

[steveh]

Just thinking , is this an early spyder folded chassis with the round air chamber ? if so is the fulcrum spindle definitely removable ? or is it welded in ?

[pauljones]

Thats where i was going with my comment above. Clean it first to see whats what.

I think ill pop in garage and look at mine in morning.

[MarkDa]

Jon posted some pics on page 8 and the cross tube is round.
Welded spindles would explain their reluctance to come out!
Jon hasn't said whether any of the others are lose.
In the first instance we saw double half height nuts which suggested locking one side of a loose spindle though.

[pauljones]

Mines an early spaceframe, its buried in the man cave but i think i can get to the front and have a look. Im sure the cross tube is round too.

It may help, may not. But worth a look.

[mbell]

I have a Spyder CHasis waiting to be fitted. Round cross member/tank with removable spindles. Recently bought S/S spindles from Spyder for it. I think they were ~12GBP each not including VAT/Shipping.

I presume you using a spacer or similar between the nut and the chassis tube or gusseting to try pull it out?

Have you tried the freezing type of penetrating sprays?

[JonB]

• Spindle is removable. The other three came out.
• have tried to use the thread with a spacer to pull it out. Spacer was a bush inner which deformed.
• have soaked in penetrating oil, about to try ATV+Acetone mix
• didn't whack it too hard when hot. Theory was heat would compress the rust a little then the rod might shrink back and loosen.
• have tried a percussion type drill set to hammer but not drill, with a chisel attached

[billwill]

Try a spacer made from a bit of steel gas pipe.

Apply ice or freon to the shaft to cool & contract it.

Plumbers shops sell a freezing kit, intended to freeze water in a pipe for use when replacing split pipes, perhaps such a kit will help.

[MarkDa]

You're going need torque on the spindle at some stage as well as impact.
It will surely go eventually - we're all willing it out with you!

[john.p.clegg]

Weld a big nut on whats left of the thread,impact driver,heat the surrounding chassis,cool the nut/spindle ?

John