steering shaft sliding clamp

[wolfchen]

The steering shaft on my elan s2 has a sliding connection under the dash to effect a collapsible column ,I think
it's held together by a grub screw and clamp. I have tightened it multiple times but it invariable loosens in a bit of driving. I have tried Loctite blue,as Loctite red might make it permanent and if worn would need to be replaced,
so is there a better sturdier design or fix, it's annoying to attend to as it is hard to access under dash.

anyone else tackle this problem ?

[RogerFrench]

Make sure it's bearing squarely on the flat of the inner shaft. It will quickly loosen if not.

[ericbushby]

Hi,
Is there a locknut. You have not mentioned it. The grub screw should be tightened to the correct torque and then locked with the nut.
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC

[oldelanman]

Tighten the two bolts holding the clamp together before tightening the grub screw or the two halves of the clamp may not be seated properly and may move causing the bolts to loosen. If it's correctly fitted and, as already said, bearing on the flat section of the shaft and with the locknut in place, you should not need Loctite.

Correct torque for the grub screw according to the W/S Manual is 26-32 lb ft. No specified torque given for the two clamp bolts but standard figure for 1/4" UNF is 5-7 lb ft.

[wolfchen]

thanks will break out 1/4 drive torque wrench

[rgh0]

Tighten the two bolts holding the clamp together before tightening the grub screw or the two halves of the clamp may not be seated properly and may move causing the bolts to loosen. If it's correctly fitted and, as already said, bearing on the flat section of the shaft and with the locknut in place, you should not need Loctite.

Correct torque for the grub screw according to the W/S Manual is 26-32 lb ft. No specified torque given for the two clamp bolts but standard figure for 1/4" UNF is 5-7 lb ft.

That's how I do it.

In the stresses of racing I find that the shaft can sometime slide forward and the steering wheel hub start to hit the shaft tube. I have had to reset it a couple of time on a race weekend but now if I assemble it right it does not move to much but still needs checking once a year to ensure I have adequate clearance.

On a road car unless you lean on the wheel heavily it should be good for much longer

cheers
Rohan

[nmauduit]

In the stresses of racing I find that the shaft can sometime slide forward and the steering wheel hub start to hit the shaft tube.

yes, then if the horn is still connected via the steering whell button it goes on ... so before going on the track I disconnect my horn.

[rgh0]

In the stresses of racing I find that the shaft can sometime slide forward and the steering wheel hub start to hit the shaft tube.

yes, then if the horn is still connected via the steering whell button it goes on ... so before going on the track I disconnect my horn.

Yes I have had that occur also and now I pull the horn relay off when on the track

cheers
Rohan

[Foxie]

In the stresses of racing I find that the shaft can sometime slide forward and the steering wheel hub start to hit the shaft tube.

yes, then if the horn is still connected via the steering whell button it goes on ... so before going on the track I disconnect my horn.

This happened to me too.

The horn would come on on the corners, and go off again on the straights.

The driver in front thought I was doing it deliberately.

Very embarrassing....