steering clunk solved: now what?

[chicagojeff]

With some good advice from the board, I figured out that my safety clamp on the steering column was clunking against the end of the clevis pin that holds the clutch pedal to the master clutch pushrod. All of the problem is down in the footwell. What I can't figure out is how to get enough clearance? I can pull the steering column shaft way out--so that it is about 4 inches from flush with the dash, but short of that, I can't figure out how to solve this. It must be that when I replaced the clutch master cylinder a month or two ago, it lined up the pushrod a little further out (into the footwell) so that it now won't clear the safety clamp.

Has anyone got a good idea? How much leeway is there is where the two steering columns attach, isn't it about 3 or 4 inches? I feel like I'm gonna be pushing it if I try to clear it by bringing the clamp "up" towards the driver, and there just doesn't seem to be enough room to clear it behind the clevis pin going the other way.

I feel like the only solution might be to replace or shorten the clutch pushrod, but man, this is so frustratingly close! The only other thing I can think of is some really tight and neat clevis pin solution, more like a rivet or something that won't get in the way.

thanks all. Jeff With 3 more Nice Days before Extreme Cold in Chicago

[Frank Howard]

Jeff,

I have a suggestion that will solve your problem and cost nothing. It will require a fair amount of work however as a side benefit, it will make your car easier to enter and once in, appear much more spacious.

First of all, there is plenty of overlap between the solid inner column and the hollow outer column and there will be even more if you can move the steering wheel and the outer column closer to the front of the car. If you remove the outer column and machine in another cut like the one that the impact clamp sits in, you will be able to place the impact clamp in this new cut, which is closer to the steering wheel. I machined the cut using a bench grinder.

The steering column housing (the thin metal tube the covers the moving column) is too long. Simply shorten it a few inches and reinstall the lower bushing in it by drilling the two required holes in the housing.

Your clamp will now be safely away from the pedal box (eliminating a potential disaster if it were to interfer with it in the middle of a turn) and not only will the car be easier to get into, but the once in, the interior will seem much roomier. One of the best improvements I made to my car.

[chicagojeff]

that's a good idea, I'm just wondering what others do? How "far out" do people have their steering wheels from being flush with the dash? In other words, what's typical length of column between the dash and the back of the steering wheel? thanks all. Jeff

[Frank Howard]

Jeff,

The outer housing is touching the dashboard cut out. When I refinish the dash, I plan on opening up the cut out to match the contour of the outer housing so I can push the wheel forward even further. You don't want to drive your car like a little old lady (or a NASCAR driver, arms bent 90 degrees, wheel up against your chest) do you? Arms straight, Jimmy Clark style is the way to go!

[john.p.clegg]

Frank
Try adjusting the seat rearwards???

John

[chicagojeff]

For now, I had to pull the steering wheel and the outer column out, so that there is about 1.5 inches between the dash and the backside of the steering wheel. Does that distance sound okay to others? Obviously, a good solution (when it isn't freezing outside!) is cutting down the column and getting the steering wheel even closer to the dash, I am just trying to figure out what others have as the measurement I have described.

thanks anyone.

[Frank Howard]

John,

If I push the seat back, I can't push the clutch or (more importantly) the accelerator to the floor.

Jeff,

Not sure where you are getting your 1-1/2" measurement from. After I shortened the column, the back side of the black center hub on my wheel measured 3" from the dash. The top Phillips screw that holds the plastic cover for the direction and high beam switches is 1-1/2" from the dash.