Replacing The Uj On The Steering Collumn

[Roy Gillett]

Help needed.

I have an 'advice' from my MOT inspection on my +2 S130 that the UJ at the bottom of the steering collumn was wearing and would need replacement. Parts obtained from Paul Mattey (very quickly and efficiently as ever), I now need advice as to how to fit it.

My first thoughts are that by slackening off the clamp where the outer and inner steering collumn halfs join I might be able to slide the lower (inner) shaft up towards the steering wheel to detatch the old UJ and install the new one. Am I being over optimistic? I really don't want to be lying on my back under the car trying to sort out the logistics by trial and error (the latter mostly I suspect) in what appears to be a rather tight and inaccessible spot.

Anyone know the easy way?

Roy

[bvt]

Undo the bolt that holds the joint to the column first
you should be able to pull the steering wheel to pull the lower spline out of the joint. Youn only need to move it about 1/2 " so no trying to pull the column all the way out!
Then undo the bolt holding the joint to the rack and lever it off with a screwdriver

Replace in reverse... you may need an assistant to wiggle the wheel to get the spline and joint to line up

Do all this with the wheels straight ahead and make sure the steering wheel/column is in the same position as it was removed.

[Foxie]

Ray,

A caveat on the previous reply. On the later Plus Twos, it is not possible to withdraw the inner column by pulling up the steering wheel, as there is a flange near the top which will not come through the upper bush.

It will greatly assist this job if you remove the radiator and bottom hose, and front weber.

You need to withdraw the u/j clamp bolts completely as they fit in a groove on the splined ends. Remove the outer/inner column clamp. Clamp a vice grip or similar on the inner column in the engine bay, and tap it back up into the outer column tube.

Don't forget the horn earth wire which goes across the u/j .

You should check that the sleeve with the ridge which cancels the indicators is at the 3 o'clock position, with wheels straight ahead. You need to remove the steering wheeel to check this.

Sean Murray

[Foxie]

Forgot to mention that the indicator cancelling sleeve is positely located on the steering column by a pip(s) which fits into a hole in the column, i.e. if it is wrongly positioned it will not slide round on the column, (been there, done that !) Again, with wheels straight ahead, the column must be unclamped at the u/j , rotated , and reclamped in the correct position. Then replace steering wheel in straight on position.

Sean Murray

[Frank Howard]

By the way. Dave Bean will sell you a needle bearing u-joint. Much better than the original flexible coupling. The needle bearing joint contains no rubber pieces which eventually wear out and lead to a loose connection. And if you want to save some money, go to the scrap yard and pull one out of most smaller Japanese cars like a Protege (323), Corolla, or Civic. I think the Protege can be removed from inside the car just inside the firewall. These joints are designed to clamp on to a 13mm shaft which works well on a 1/2" Elan shaft. They do have a different number of splines though, but once you have reefed down on the tightening bolts, there is no way they will let go.

Frank Howard
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota

[Roy Gillett]

Thanks Guys,

All the responses are really helpful. It might not be the nightmare job it seemed at first sight. Not sure I am keen on removing one carb and the radiator. Can't it be done from under the car?

Interestingly my indicators don't cancel at the right spot as things stand so if I can correct that at the same time that will really be a bonus.

Thanks again.

Roy

[Greg Foster]

Roy,
You are on the right track by loosening the clamp(the inner, lower steering column...., has a flat on one side which,.... can slide into the upper column. The compression allen head bolt has a lock nut to fix it in tension with the flat on the column ). There are 2 bolts which hold the impact clamp together. By releasing the 2 impact clamp bolts just enough to slip the lower column up you should be able to remove the Flex joint assy.
As noted in other posts the upper and lower clamping bolts(2) on each end of the flexible coupling joint, by the rack, need to be completely removed.
Also as stated in other posts, to allign the column correctly( IF the turn signals don't turn off when the steering wheel returns to center). you must remove the steering wheel with the front wheels in straight forward driving position,( horn button pops out, disconnect ground to steering column from button, and loosen the nut holding the steering wheel UNTIL THE NUT IS FLUSH WITH THE END OF THE THREADS ON THE STEERING COLUMN(this is to prevent buggering the threads) The steering wheel fits on the tapered and splined end of the upper inner shaft. Get someone to help you. Have them hold the steering wheel while sitting in the drivers seat and you take a hardwood block ( about 8" in length) and a hammer. The person should PULL toward the drivers seat as if pulling the wheel off the column while you wail on the block which is placed against the nut on the end of the column. Make sure the blocks doesnt interfere with anything inside the steering wheel and rests securely on the nut. The wheel will pop of easily. DO THIS BEFORE LOOSENING THE IMPACT CLAMP. Be careful of hitting teeth while swinging the hammer!
Remove the wheel and you will see what appears to be a clip with a nib on it fastened to the upper steering column just below the splines and taper. See how far off the nib is from being centered in the turn signal relaase triggers.
When you replace the flexible coupling , Move the column to center the nib as necessary. I reassemble everything splines,shafts, steering wheel nut and splines,with a little anti seize compound and make sure to lubricate the upper and lower column bushings with a little high quality grease.
Don't tighten the steering wheel down until you make a short safe test drive confirming the nib on the column is centered and the wheel is centered when driving in a straight line. When you retighten the implact clamp bolts, push the upper column down to remove any play in the 2piece column and then tighten when every thing is alligned. The impact clamp acts to hold the column against the lower part of the OUTER COLUMN TUBE thus adjusting freeplay and location of the column in relationship to the horn contact at the top of the column. Readjust as necessary.
Hope this sequence helps you
Greg

[Roy Gillett]

Thanks Greg.,
Very concise and helpful. What is your view on whether the radiator has to come out?

Roy

[Greg Foster]

Roy,
Don't really know.
IF you can get to it with 1/4" drive rachet and socket plus a wrench. My +2 has been modified with a larger radiator, a/c condenser and assundry flashings. I think I replaced the joint without removing any of the stuff.
Good luck
Greg

[Greg Foster]

Roy
Thinking about it , I did remove the joint from under the car with a little help from a friend to reallign everthing. It is tight and difficult and can be done.
Greg

[Hamish Coutts]

These guys supply a good U/J for the steering column. I've just fitted one & it seems fine.

<a href='http://www.spydercars.co.uk/' target='_blank'>http://www.spydercars.co.uk/</a>

Hamish

[Hamish Coutts]

Greg,

Just noticed in your post "My +2 has been modified with a larger radiator". Did you get this specially made or was it a stock item. Wouldn't mind knowing as my rad is nearing it's usefull life and needs overhauled/replaced.

Regards,

Hamish.