S4 Heater and Choke cable Knob Question
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I know these parts are NLA so I wanted to restore the ones I have. The chrome bezel is pretty much rusted and wanted to re chrome them. But it seems that the knobs have to be removed from the cables. or at least, they have to pull out of the cable housing with the cable intact. But for the life of me, I cannot figure out how they are to be withdrawn. Any help? Thanks Allan
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Hi Allan,
The cable on mine was crimped and soldered to the solid rod that protrudes from the plastic knob. I placed the steel part of the unit in a vice to act as a heat sink and heated up the end where the cable fits. I kept pulling and the old cable came out. Replaceing the cable was a reverse of the removal procedure, although you may have to open up the crimps a little.
Hope that helps.
Regards Mick G
The cable on mine was crimped and soldered to the solid rod that protrudes from the plastic knob. I placed the steel part of the unit in a vice to act as a heat sink and heated up the end where the cable fits. I kept pulling and the old cable came out. Replaceing the cable was a reverse of the removal procedure, although you may have to open up the crimps a little.
Hope that helps.
Regards Mick G
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Thanks Mike, appreciate the response. My knobs only pulled out about 3 inches, I guess the housing locks them in somehow, so when you pull them out you can turn it a 1/4 turn to lock them in the extended position. Is there a way, or position, you have to turn the knobs to fully extract the knob with the cable? All I need to do is to seperate the bezels for the cable assembly so I can chrome them. Thanks Allan
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Allan, once you've turned the knob so that it's not in the locking position it should pull right through the outer. I recently spent a "happy" few days trying to reverse the procedure when the inner came loose at the carb end and the whole thing pulled out when I went to start the car. If it comes out a few inches and jams there's probably a kink or something at the far end of the inner that you'll need to straighten it out with pliers first. The choke wire is thin enough so minor kinks will pull through but the heater wire is a lot thicker so if there's a bend or a kink in that it may well jam in the outer so you need to check the engine end a bit more carefully. There's no secret mechanism though - at least not in mine.
Stuart Holding
Thame UK / Alpe D'Huez France
69 S4 FHC
Honda GoldWing 1800
Honda CBX1000
Kawasaki H1 500
Yamaha XS2
Thame UK / Alpe D'Huez France
69 S4 FHC
Honda GoldWing 1800
Honda CBX1000
Kawasaki H1 500
Yamaha XS2
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Thanks Stuart, that makes a lot of sense. I thought they worked that way. But for the life of me, I could not understand why both stopped at the same position. I thought the knob had a pin or something that would release them. They rotated 360 degrees freely, and didn't see any kinks, but I will check again when I get back home in November. Thanks Allan
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