heater box?

[h20hamelan]

my fan circulates air sometimes, other times not at all. and other times, it works great.
I have hooked up a direct fused jumper and is ok sometimes (but not always).
I would like to have the blower motor rebuilt/replaced.

wondering how much/far i need to go to get the wiring out, so i can move the dash to access the blower box.
seems possible to just disconnect harness connectors (drivers side) without having to disconnect each switch connection from dash. But possibly the vacuum headlight knob does not come off...(or does it)

would like to make it easy as possible!

what experiences do you folk have?


regards
james

[jono]

sorry to be harbinger of doom but it's a dash out and heater box out job I'm afraid

[h20hamelan]

readings from other posts show it is dash out.

what is the easiest way to get to the box.
unplug the harness loom or...each circuit control. i.e can i unplug where the harness comes from the rear (also the dash side)

thanks
james

[stugilmour]

James, the details may vary a bit for LHD & RHD and the exact Plus 2 model, but from memory of the stock set-up on my Federal LHD car is listed below. General idea is you can detach the front and rear looms and remove the dash. The real pain is getting them all back together correctly with potentially faded wire colours; I replaced them with block connectors during my re-wire, so something to think about.

One tip to mark each wire and corresponding block. Electrical supply shops have sheets of peel and stick numbers & letters in pairs to mark stuff. I gave up and decided to re-wire the car completely, but understand others have used these with success.

Second tip. The Federal wiring diagram is really helpful for this job because the schematic sort of honours the physical locations of all the connector blocks. Can be very helpful. I will see if I can scan a copy and post it here if you don't have one.

• There were several (like 15 or 20) bullet connector blocks located left hand side of the car that need to be free. These take care of the front and rear looms. Might take care of the interior lights as well?
• Separate loom branch to the column. Most of the wires grouped at mid-point of column.
• Interior light switch wires both sides by the dash brackets; Purple/White and associated Black ground.
• Several Black grounds located at the bottom right dash mounting bolt/body attachment bolt.
• Wires to the resister and heater motor mounted left hand side of heater box; spade connectors.
• Check right hand side of heater box for a relay; present only on the Federal cars with intermittent switch for the Park lights. If there has to be unfastened; spade connectors.
• Wires to the door window motors, possible puddle lights on later cars.
• Choke cable. I unfastened at carb and pulled the whole affair through the fire wall.
• Bonnet release cable. I was able to remove the bracket from the back of the dash I think.
• Air trunking from eye ball vents and heater box outlets.

Pretty sure I missed some items.

HTH

[h20hamelan]

got the box out without removing many wires.

i would like to put a new motor in, not rebuild this old thing.

what have people used

thanks

[stugilmour]

got the box out without removing many wires.

i would like to put a new motor in, not rebuild this old thing.

what have people used

thanks

Wow that was quick James. I salute you sir!

I am not sure if this is the correct one, but the guys (rdssdi Bob) in some archive posts mentioned this supplier and it is the only 12v Smiths motor I could see. Click on `Product Options`` to get 12v, Part No: M1210...

http://www.thhs.co.uk/products/general- ... miths-type

HTH

[h20hamelan]

Yea

had noticed the UK version, thought some in the lotus N. American community had a feel for what works here.

I know shipping is quick from the UK and cheap.

Seems a standard motor for vehicles, and could probably use the rear housing with the three mounting holes.

and i live in the middle of nowhere, a few hours drive to get anything. and shipping to calgary vancouver overnight.


thanks

[DavidLB]

I've used the thhs motor the shaft had to shorted if I remember correctly otherwise fine
Davis

[DavidLB]

I've used the thhs motor the shaft had to shortened if I remember correctly otherwise fine
Davis

[h20hamelan]

for all

Purchased a 35502 a bit too long but could fit
now have a 35576 from 4seasons/unimotor that does not have the smith mounting but only $40cdn delivered to my door

guess i will use some hose clamps and... to make it work
may even get busy cutting the old motor housing to use the exact bits. not too much work with a jig/band saw


thanks

james

[h20hamelan]

will also keep ya posted on my "never-fail" heater-core

[singerv]

While you are replacing the fan motor are you replacing the fan blade assembly? I was not able to deftly remove mine without catastrophic damage to it. I am still looking for a source for the fan blades, looks like 155mm diameter it is a smiths part but at this point I would be more than happy to make anything work.

thanks Vince