Heater control cable wont push the control valve shut .

[Keith Scarfe]

Another follow up.
After a few months of use I have found that it is holding shut when reqd OK and opens and closes OK which is great (100% improvement on its original operation). The next problem however is that now that it is all freely and easily moving, it is basically impossible to set the flow anywhere between either fully closed (cold) or fully open (burnt feet). The ideal would be to pull it just off fully closed so only a small flow occurs and the heat is controllable but because it is all well lubricated and freely moving, the pressure of the water in the engine just pushes the valve fully open. I need to increase the friction of the cable. I have tried squashing the outer underneath the clamp. This works a bit but not enough. I need some thing like a screw in a housing to partially clamp the cable to give the friction needed to hold it in place. TBC.....

[ericbushby]

Keith,
Mines like that as well. I filed the corner lightly as suggested and that is fine.
But now when in mid range the setting drifts. There is a balancing return spring to the alternator bracket and the heater drifts towards open or closed depending on the tension on this spring. The `turn to lock` system on the knob doesn`t work so I decided I need to introduce some friction to the cable until I can obtain the correct cable and knob. I made this device which is a great improvement but is not good enough yet.
It does no damage and is easily removed.
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC (grounded, its raining)

[661]

If the wire isn't long enough, piano wire and lead solder, Robert is your mother's brother