Localised paint repair

[SteveC]

As you can see I've got a few localised paint repairs to do (Boot hindges collapsed and then repaired). Ive not done anything like this before so could do with expert advice.
Can I use a filler (P38)to skim the surface and rub down?
What paint primer would you recommend?
What paint would you recommend.

I can afford a full respray in the forseeable future, so a bit make do and mend.

I've also got a bit spider cracking on the offside wing. Again, a bit of advise please;
Do I sand out cracks and use filler, or V-out the cracks and use gell coat repair kit?

Like i said, not much experience!

Thanks in anticipation.
Steve

[Gordon Sauer]

So assuming you don't have much paint equipment, I've had good luck with UPOL--a series of products in aerosol cans that actually come out of England so should be available over there. They have etching primers, high build primers, and single stage clears. After cleaning with paint prep cleaning produts (and I like ending up with Windex in addition) I'd use 800 to scuff the neighboring red out about an inch along with the patch area. The patch area will have to be smooth to 400 or 600 and if necessary you can use the high build primer that comes from UPOL--just don't get it out onto more red. The when your ready for red, I'd overlap the primer some on the repaired edge/red join as lifting seems to be a big problem when you shoot some color on a patch. Then with that final overlap it should all sand to about 600/800 with the join still being covered with primer. When spraying the color coat I'd try to use a very small gun or even an airbrush and it will be good to know what is on there to match paint types. An airbrush allows more paint control and then mask off unscuffed areas and maybe even shoot through a hole in a handheld piece of cardboard to control overspray. By limiting the paint to scuffed areas, the 600/800 areas, you should be able to blend in after several coats using 1500 and up paper. Unfortunately red is very hard to duplicate since the pigments are so sensitive to fading but you might get close with the paint code and then a good paint supplier may be able to match it better by taking them the trunk lid. Gordon Sauer

[SteveC]

Gordon
Thanks for your advise on this and other posts, if you we're a bit closer I'd bring the car to you to do!

I've got plenty of other questions, so keep an eye out.

I've only has one Lotus (this one), I have had it 25years, I bought it for the looks and performance without knowing the heartache it would give me over the years - I should have been shot.

[c42]

Hi Steve, your local automotive paint supplier will be able to match your colour and fill an aerosol can for you, you should find their prices better than Halfords and the likes for your consumables. Try and do the work dry(sanding etc) and in the warm when you are spraying.

Good Luck
Regards
John

[Gordon Sauer]

I didn't address the other stress cracks but most likely I'd leave them alone until doing the whole thing. Also, I did put aluminum sheets under the hinges so they would be stronger. Then I put a longer stud in the hinge and used Nyloc on it. Mine's been off the road 20 years, a Baby Elan 40 off, slowly coming back together so I thinks for me it's love of the process. Also, have 72 Citroen SM and that's intense but it does run all the time--no frame off for it! Gordon Sauer

[Hal]

To repair gelcoat cracking you need to grind the gelcoat down to the fibre layer over the whole area. Then use resin and re-tissue it using fibreglass tissue. Then use filler, and treat as a paint repair.

If you just fill over cracks they will come through again very quickly. I always reinforce the back of the reapair with a layer or 2 of chopped strand mat (CSM)
There is no such thing as "re-gelcoating', it's done with filler, but ONLY after re-tissueing.

[SteveC]

Thanks Hal

[Gordon Sauer]

Marine suppliers have gelcoat that no longer requires a wax covering to harden (like is done in the mold during manufacture) but with two stage primers I'm not sure it's necessary. Ultimately gelcoat or two stage primers are needed to cover the fiberglass cloth/mat fibers used during repair so no loose/exposed strands will show through the top coat which is fairly transluscent--I've seen cloth show through dark paint jobs. Lotus came with gelcoat and primer and on mine I duplicated that on any repaired area but this was a complete repaint. I didn't have to use any filler (Bondo) with the mat (build up) cloth (surface strength), gelcoat (fiber covering), high-build fill approach. Ultimately they are all "fillers" but this is how the surface was originally built up. As I noted before UPOL makes a canned, high build filler that I found works well on spot repair even though it's not two pack. Stress cracks are too hard to repair I think without car ending up like a patchwork although maybe if confined to trunk hinges and door handles, for example, it may be OK and needed for things to not entirely work the area and eventually pull through. I similarly put alum backing plate on my door handles like the trunk hinges. Gordon Sauer