HEATER VALVE

PostPost by: bcmc33 » Sat Jul 09, 2011 1:48 pm

Just noticed the heater valve leaks when open.
I know this has been talked to death a number of times, but is there a suitable alternative to the standard valve?
Or can the leak be repaired?
The system is drained at the moment, so maybe I should remove the valve to see why it leaks, and hope I can repair and reassemble it properly.
Brian Clarke
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Sat Jul 09, 2011 2:38 pm

bcmc33 wrote: can the leak be repaired? maybe I should remove the valve to see why it leaks, and hope I can repair and reassemble it properly.


Probably depends what it looks like inside, I did'nt think it was worth the time and effort to try to repair this one.
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heater valve 002 [HDTV (1080)].JPG and
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PostPost by: garyeanderson » Sat Jul 09, 2011 3:20 pm

Yes another re-run but a good one. Brian shows the valve out and completely disassembled. Before that happens, Get a new heater valve (stock replacement) see link, I believe its just a tr6 heater valve. With the old valve still in the Elan, drill out the rivet of the old heater valve. Pull the valve guts out and inspect the face the valve (still in the Elan) that the seal rides on and if still in good shape drill out the rivet in the new valve and move the guts over. re-rivet or small screw hold the valve in place. If the part that is screwed into the head is no good (corrosion or what ever) then remove it (easier said than done) and fit the new valve complete as purchased. I think that orientation of the valves lever arm is important so note the position of the cable when swapping parts.

http://www.google.com/products?q=tr6+heater+valve&hl=en

p-a
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junk Elan heater valve.jpg and
Junk heater valve, this is all I replace if the other half of the valve is still good.
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PostPost by: bcmc33 » Sat Jul 09, 2011 5:00 pm

Problem solved - Took it apart to find the diaphragm split, so new valve required.
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PostPost by: rmd24 » Sat Jul 09, 2011 5:29 pm

Hi Brian, I bought one from Paul Matty's last year, can't remember how much it was but I didn't think it expensive at the time. I'm sure you know that you have to release the N/S engine mounting and jack up the engine to give adequate clearance to screw out the old valve.

Roger.
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PostPost by: Yum-yum » Sat Jul 09, 2011 6:19 pm

After having had three of these valves fail on me in the '90s when my car was a daily driver (along with the aggravation of failed motor mounts) and having to raise this side of the motor to change the valve, I fitted a pipe elbow in line with the valve to rotate it 90 degrees upward. Strange, ever since I did the elbow mod the valve has remained good.
I did not need to change either the control cable or the heater hose, they both enter at the same angle and close to the same length. It does not appear so in the picture but there is just enough swing to unscrew the valve without its outlet port hitting the thermostat housing.
Along with not needing to raise the motor anymore to change the valve, this also reduces wear on the threads in the head as the valve would need to be tightened to a new location with each new fitment. This in itself would be a good reason to follow piss-ant's practice of not disturbing the housing if the original location is used. My fitting does look kind of funky and I have tried to think of ways to make it lower profile. I may go back to the original position and do the takeapart process for future replacements.
DSCN1525.jpg and
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PostPost by: bcmc33 » Sat Jul 09, 2011 11:17 pm

rmd24 wrote: I'm sure you know that you have to release the N/S engine mounting and jack up the engine to give adequate clearance to screw out the old valve.
Roger.

Well, there I was placing the jack under the engine in preparation to lift it up when the great realisation dawned upon me - stupid boy :oops:, I said to myself, tall block engine. :roll:
Removed the adjacent temperature sensors and off it came. :)
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PostPost by: elansprint71 » Sun Jul 10, 2011 9:20 am

Image
I have a deep hatred of the heater valve, scratched my hands on it too many times, it's the ugliest part of the car.... etc.
After a long search I found a brass fitting with the correct thread Plum Center(sp?) had to ship it half-way across England as it was the only one on their entire inventory!
I fitted a ball-valve behind the dash, I can reach across and move the lever which is adjacent to the air-flap on the heater in the passenger side.
At some point the blue hoses will go, as black silicone is now available.
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PostPost by: RedS4 » Mon Jul 11, 2011 4:34 am

I have a deep hatred of the heater valve, scratched my hands on it too many times, it's the ugliest part of the car.... etc.
After a long search I found a brass fitting with the correct thread Plum Center(sp?) had to ship it half-way across England as it was the only one on their entire inventory!
I fitted a ball-valve behind the dash, I can reach across and move the lever which is adjacent to the air-flap on the heater in the passenger side.


Pete
Photos please!! :)

Almost a year ago I purchased a new valve but have not had the gonads to try changing it over. :oops: The "partial replacement method" appeals...
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PostPost by: Bruce Crowthorne » Thu Jul 14, 2011 4:37 pm

Replacing it is pretty quick and easy - as long as you bear in mind you have to undo the engine mount and jack up the engine ....
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PostPost by: RedS4 » Sat Jul 16, 2011 3:08 am

I found a brass fitting with the correct thread Plum Center(sp?)


Is "Plum Centre" the thread name (like "Whitworth" or "UNC")? :?:
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PostPost by: elansprint71 » Sat Jul 16, 2011 6:34 am

RedS4 wrote:
I found a brass fitting with the correct thread Plum Center(sp?)


Is "Plum Centre" the thread name (like "Whitworth" or "UNC")? :?:


Apologies! I knew it had a US spelling but, so it turns out, only partially. It is Plumb Center; a chain of plumbers' merchants in the UK; why the have chosen to use the US form of centre is beyond me, as are many things these days. :roll:
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