Early +2 heater question

PostPost by: Alex » Tue Nov 13, 2007 8:48 am

Hi,

Does anyone have an early +2 with the heater outlets from the heater to the eyeball vents blanked off? Mine have been blanked on the heater with thick card disks. The eyeball vents have then been connected to the lower exits on the heater which should go into the footwell.

I'm sure this is some sort of cobble up by a previous owner, but just thought I'd ask.

My next problem is finding exit tubes to put the heater back to standard! Maybe a trip to a plumbers merchants and a bit of time in the lathe!

Cheers

Alex
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PostPost by: greg.harvey » Tue Nov 13, 2007 8:57 am

I have a late Plus 2 and the eyeball vents seem to be fresh air only - they don't draw off the heater at all. I haven't actually looked, but the heater works because the footwells and windscreen vents get nice and hot, so I guess the eyeball vents just go straight outside. Are you sure "standard" wasn't no heat through the eyeball vents and at some point someone has rigged yours up so they blow warm air?

Or perhaps mine is the rogue setup?

Be interested to see what others say. :-)
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PostPost by: Alex » Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:01 am

Hi Greg,

That was a quick reply!

I'm 99% sure warm air should be able to come out of the eyeball vents. It did on my Dads +2 years ago and it should acording to my workshop manual.

+2 heaters were never very good due to the air inlets being in a negative pressure area in front of the windscreen!

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PostPost by: greg.harvey » Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:22 am

I just happened to be here. ;-)

Oh, that's interesting! I'll have to investigate mine then. I get a solid jet of fresh air, but no heat, regardless of where the air mix slider is.
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PostPost by: TeeJay » Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:24 am

Hi Alex,

Yes warm air should come out of the face vents.

The Workshop pages are attached and should explain all.
Attachments
diagram of air flow.jpg and
heating & ventilation components.jpg and
heat & vent description.jpg and
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PostPost by: greg.harvey » Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:29 am

Now Alex has his answer, I feel I can hijack this thread! ;-)

Any idea why mine would blow cold? I guess there'll be some kind of air director attached the the air mixer lever in the cabin which is either broken or disconnected?
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PostPost by: TeeJay » Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:59 am

Greg,

Check that the Air Distribution cable (the lower long one) is adjusted such that the heater flap is fully open when the lever is in the "INTERIOR" position.

Also check that the heater deflector is fitted. The early +2's deflectors had self tapping screws, later ones were pop riveted.
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PostPost by: greg.harvey » Tue Nov 13, 2007 10:09 am

Thanks, I'll check! :-)
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PostPost by: tcsoar » Tue Nov 13, 2007 10:39 am

Hi

I had my heater out a few months back and refurbished it, (part of a very long restoration). As I remember it, there are two flaps inside the heater, one to direct the air between the different outlets, the other diverts the air through the heater to give you heat. The problem with mine, as told in various previous threads, was that the flaps have rubber seals on the edges and foam on the backs of them. This disintegrates and the air ends up finding the easiest path through. Mine is not back in the car yet so I do not know how much better it will be.

Chris.
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PostPost by: mikealdren » Tue Nov 13, 2007 11:10 am

Chris,
I'm still looking for the best materials to refurbish my heater. Lots of people have used foam from domestic door strip insulation but I would like to use sheet foam like the original.

I'm also looking for a good solution for the rubber seals. Any ideas gratefully received.

................. and of course I also want something that will last a long time!

Mike
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PostPost by: tcsoar » Tue Nov 13, 2007 11:59 am

Mike,

I followed a suggestion already posted for the rubber seals on the edges and used a bicycle inner tube. For the foam backing I used a piece of foam sheet from a tool case, the type that can be cut out to the shape you need for meters etc. Tried it on the bench and they both work well, how long they will last :roll: .

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PostPost by: mikealdren » Tue Nov 13, 2007 2:22 pm

Well I found what looks like the ideal material in B&Q, self adhesive underlay for wooden flooring.

The catch? It's in 10m rolls at ?44. They have a non adhesive version at less than ?10 but it's still a lot of money when you only need a square foot or so.

The problem with bicycle inner tubes is that they are usually rubber and I remember them going hard on my old pushbike. Never mind, I'll risk it.

Mike
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PostPost by: bengalcharlie » Wed Nov 14, 2007 8:03 am

Just fixed my heater. could not make it to work and thought that the main reason was the heater hose running form the thermostat housing to the top of the heater element was running high and air could have been trapped.
I did manage to source a hose coming off a holden that did the trick but still no hot air so I then decide to check the other end of the heater hose that runs to the bottom hose and guess what. The hole was blocked so cleaned it all and lovely warm air is coming into the cabin.
I do not need it though for another 6-7 months due to summer arriving in Aotearoa. :lol:
Cheers
Robin
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PostPost by: denicholls2 » Wed Nov 14, 2007 10:13 pm

Not sure if Plus 2 is same as Europa, but suspect it is. I believe someone on the Europa list sourced an improved material intended for HVAC purposes at the local hardware store. You might want to check their archives, would have been Spring when I was fiddling with my new dash (but wound up by reusing the existing flex hose.)
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PostPost by: kcrossle » Sun Nov 18, 2007 6:25 pm

greg.harvey wrote:Any idea why mine would blow cold?


Could be the same reason that mine does - an absence ot tubing connecting the eyeballs to the heater :o . Can someone tell me what it is made of?
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