Duratec surfacing primer

PostPost by: cabc26b » Fri Apr 06, 2007 6:17 pm

Looking for comments from any one having experience using this primer. I remember it being recommended somewhere in lotus land. I will be using a PPG urethane in the end so a heads up on topcoat compatibility would be appreciated as well as issues using fillers and the SEM primers for guides on pinholes and low spots.

Recommendations on other high build primers in the above environment are also welcome.
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PostPost by: denicholls2 » Mon Apr 09, 2007 2:50 pm

My caution to you is not to do what my PO did. High-build primers build surface cover quickly. If you keep building, you will have a surface that's nice and faired -- and as brittle as dried modeling clay. Any ding will crack it, and your expensive paint, right off. Don't ask how I know. :cry:

If you keep to the idea of 2-part, make sure you have the right equipment. This stuff makes a very nice shine but can mess you up for life if you inhale much of it.
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PostPost by: garyeanderson » Mon Apr 09, 2007 3:23 pm

My friend makes fiberglass molds for kit cars and uses duratec primer because its cheap and it uses MEK peroxide (always in stock) for a hardner and it also sands well. PVA isn't adsorbed into it so it releases without a finish coat. When he's done with the mold plugs, he cuts them up and throughs them out. Stick with PPG primers for PPG paints. I have been using K38 high build priner and K201 hardner on the last couple Elans and will be using it on my Elite as soon as it warms up here. Its about $200 for a gallon of primer and a quart of hardner. This should be enough to do a Elan and all the opening panels (doors, headlamp buckets, boot, bonnet, bumpers, screen frame)

2 cents and change
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PostPost by: c.d.s. » Tue Apr 10, 2007 3:20 am

Hello,

I have used duratec in my engine bay with good results. Any decent paint will stick to it well. I used glasurit 22 line (no clear coat for me!) without any problems.

You will still need to use primer after duratec, whatever system you are using should be a guide. I used an appropriate plastic prep/cleaner used for plastic bumper painting after sanding and before top coats.

The only caution Is that you have a very limited time before the duratec sets off and you have hardened duratec in your gun :oops:

http://www.gunnarracing.com/

this gentleman uses duratec for restoring 904 and 906 porsche's.
He does good work and if you follow the history of images, many tips on working with fiberglass and duratec.
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PostPost by: cabc26b » Wed Apr 25, 2007 2:25 am

Gentlemen, thanks for advice.

I will mostly likley switch over to PPG for the build coats as thats what I am using for the topcoats and was going to prime with PPG over the duratec. Thanks Gary .

On the brittle nature of the duratec surfacing primer, is that a property of a polyester material , or just duratec or applying too much. The leading edge of my light weight hard top will chip with the slightest impact ( and that was before the primer.
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PostPost by: c.d.s. » Fri Apr 27, 2007 5:09 pm

I didn't find any issues with a brittle coats.

There are some nooks and bends in the engine bay that wont exist in the exterior contours of the body and I haven't had any issues with duratec.
I applied twice, as I sanded through some bits as duratec is almost too easy
to sand.

Im not sure that denicholls2 was specifically commenting about duratec
when talking about brittle high build primers?

good luck,


Carl
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