torque rods

[street]

simple but annoying....

when installing the torque rods i cannot get the washer cups to sit under pressure on front and rear of sow ear, the rear is loose on right side and front on left side of "ears" it like both seem to be floating in the recess.

I have changed sides and it it does is swap over the front rear scenario above

Any suggestions,

Brand new rubber bushings being used, rods have welded front cup.

[2cams70]

One suggestion - I really think you need to get yourself a digital camera or phone with camera so you can post pictures to help explain what you are trying to describe. Remember too it’s difficult to turn a sow’s ear into a silk purse

[john.p.clegg]

Sound like the diff is not fitted " square" to the chassis/propshaft ?

John

[elanner]

Yup - it should be simple, assuming you have the correct bushes & washers. Note the assembly sequence in the workshop manual:

The torque rod rubbers are assembled in the following sequence from the front:-
Rubber bush (next to fixed washer), cup washer with large hole, differential unit lug, cup washer with large hole, rubber bush, cup washer with small hole, and finally the nut which should be torque loaded to the figure given in 'Technical Doto'.

It's hard to get the washers wrong, because the small hole washer will only fit at end of the rod, next to the nut, while the large hole washers will slide along the rod, over the step at the end. Are you sure you have the correct bushes? If yours are too thin you'll never be able to get them tight.

Nick

[Rickrey]

Can I, slightly, hijack this discussion ?
I just recently found that my torque rods had no washers— just the rubber bushings. I found a couple anti-roll bar washers that fit the front of the ear and used two tapered higher duration suspension bushings at the rear.
My question: What is the purpose of the tapered hole and tapered nut at the end of the torque rod ? The previous owner had severely tightened down the tapered nuts and lock nuts.
Second question: Should the tapered nuts be left a little loose(with locking nut tight) to allow some rotational movement or should they be tightened down ?
Thanks

[bitsobrits]

The tapered washer into the tapered recess of the torque rod provides for a higher strength and more stable (in shear) bolted joint than a plain bolt and washer through the torque rod would. That nut needs to be very tight here! The fore/aft forces generated by the diff housing under loading and unloading are quite large, and the torque rod bushings need to be in good condition with everything tight or you will risk stress cracks at the torque rod forward mounting points.

[billwill]

I have a recollection that the washers for the bushes are slightly cupped, not flat, but I don'r remember for sure and haven't found a diagram.

[Bud English]

I have a recollection that the washers for the bushes are slightly cupped, not flat, but I don'r remember for sure and haven't found a diagram.

The washers that I have are as Bill describes; flat on one side, domed on the other. The parts list shows a nut and washer on both sides. I've never found a source for the washers. In a pervious thread it was noted that Kelvedon Lotus sells a "Torque Rod Nut" shaped to fit. That might be good if used with a lock nut????

https://kelvedonlotus.co.uk/product/dif ... e-rod-nut/

[Craven]

It was done with this at one point, tie rod to chassis then fitted with a bolt and lock nut.
I think you guys are talking different ends.

[Bud English]

Exactly. Started at one end then switched to the other. Both ends covered at this point I think.

What you pictured is what I have on my '70 +2 as well.

[Rickrey]

Thanks all. That’s a mighty skinny rod and chassis bolt. I understand how the tapered nut gives more surface area for the fastener.
As an aside, RD Enterprises shows the rubber bushings to be the same as the sway(anti-roll) bar end link bushings.