Short drive with only one driveshaft?
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Hello everybody!
The other night one of my rotoflexes broke (inner on left side). It happened on start so the damages were not to bad, although the handbrake rod on the left side winded up itself around the driveshaft...
I have now disassembled the driveshaft on the left side to be able to push the car.
My question is, can I drive (of course in first gear and very slow, at low speed) with only one drive shaft?
Can I drive up a steep garage driveway, about 10 meters long? My plan is to drive a short distance to a place where I can put the car while waiting for spare parts and time to fix it.
Grateful for advise in this matter.
Magnus
The other night one of my rotoflexes broke (inner on left side). It happened on start so the damages were not to bad, although the handbrake rod on the left side winded up itself around the driveshaft...
I have now disassembled the driveshaft on the left side to be able to push the car.
My question is, can I drive (of course in first gear and very slow, at low speed) with only one drive shaft?
Can I drive up a steep garage driveway, about 10 meters long? My plan is to drive a short distance to a place where I can put the car while waiting for spare parts and time to fix it.
Grateful for advise in this matter.
Magnus
- Magnus+2
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Thanks.
I forgot to tell it is a 1968 +2 (which I have driven for 16 years without any big problems).
I think it is all original back there. What type do you think I have? I suppose I can just try it? If it works it will, or do you think something will break if I try?
I forgot to tell it is a 1968 +2 (which I have driven for 16 years without any big problems).
I think it is all original back there. What type do you think I have? I suppose I can just try it? If it works it will, or do you think something will break if I try?
- Magnus+2
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Magnus+2 wrote:Thanks.
I forgot to tell it is a 1968 +2 (which I have driven for 16 years without any big problems).
I think it is all original back there. What type do you think I have? I suppose I can just try it? If it works it will, or do you think something will break if I try?
If it's all original you will have an open diff.
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promotor - Fourth Gear
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Mangus:
Would love to know how old the Rotoflex coupling that failed was if you know. I just put in new ones from R Dent a couple years ago on my 67 FHC, and they are so far holding up well with 2,000 miles on them.
I bet the one that failed was quite old?
Would love to know how old the Rotoflex coupling that failed was if you know. I just put in new ones from R Dent a couple years ago on my 67 FHC, and they are so far holding up well with 2,000 miles on them.
I bet the one that failed was quite old?
1967 Lotus Elan FHC Spyder Chassis
1972 MGB (since 1975)
1972 MGB (since 1975)
- billmoore42
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Magnus,
As pointed out above, only having one driveshaft connected will allow the disconnected diff output shaft to spin, with no drive going the remaining driveshaft.
Depending on how desperate you are to move the car under its own power, finding some way of locking the disconnected diff output shaft (perhaps a wooden block wedged against the frame or a length of flat bar drilled to match a couple of the output shaft boltholes resting against the frame?) will allow the remaining driveshaft to be driven.
Very much an 'at your own risk' suggestion - the standard diff and driveshaft arrangement is not all that strong and wasn't designed to accept loads like this, but I doubt you will be accelerating hard into your garage.
Good luck.
As pointed out above, only having one driveshaft connected will allow the disconnected diff output shaft to spin, with no drive going the remaining driveshaft.
Depending on how desperate you are to move the car under its own power, finding some way of locking the disconnected diff output shaft (perhaps a wooden block wedged against the frame or a length of flat bar drilled to match a couple of the output shaft boltholes resting against the frame?) will allow the remaining driveshaft to be driven.
Very much an 'at your own risk' suggestion - the standard diff and driveshaft arrangement is not all that strong and wasn't designed to accept loads like this, but I doubt you will be accelerating hard into your garage.
Good luck.
68 Elan S3 HSCC Roadsports spec
71 Elan Sprint (still being restored)
32 Standard 12
Various modern stuff
71 Elan Sprint (still being restored)
32 Standard 12
Various modern stuff
- Andy8421
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billmoore42 wrote:Mangus:
Would love to know how old the Rotoflex coupling that failed was if you know. I just put in new ones from R Dent a couple years ago on my 67 FHC, and they are so far holding up well with 2,000 miles on them.
I bet the one that failed was quite old?
Thank you all for info and suggestions! How the diff works is obviously not my speciality...
I would guess that the rotoflexes on my car is at least 20 years old. I have had the car for 17 years and I have not changed them (I probably should have done that). Actually, I am not shure that the rotoflex itself broke as I found a broken bolt on the ground where it happened. It could indicate that the broken bolt was the initial cause of the "disaster".
Towing a +2 without damage to the bodywork seems to be hard, but not according to everyone. Any more input on that topic would be appreciated.
Best regards.
Magnus
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Andy8421 wrote: but I doubt you will be accelerating hard into your garage.
Good luck.
Much the same words this chappie probably thought as well....:
https://youtu.be/CeX3afEt4C4
But yes, carefully wedged and even more carefully driven, this should be good for a slow ten metre run...
Hal Adams
Evora SR
Elan +2
Evora SR
Elan +2
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HCA - Coveted Fifth Gear
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If you’re trying to get it pushed up a short steep drive, can you not bribe 4 neighbours to give you a push ?
The cars are not very heavy; and it will be cheap (beer)
The cars are not very heavy; and it will be cheap (beer)
Richard
'72 Sprint
'72 Sprint
- richardcox_lotus
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