Fitting new diff mounts
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I’m currently fitting new bushes and having a bit of an issue.
When I try to tighten the main middle bolts the nut goes very tight before the washers contact the rubber bush. The washer doesn’t move freely and there is around 5mm between the washer and the rubber bush.
Can someone confirm the thickness of the washers and should I have the torque rods loosened while doing this?
Stupidly I never looked at the old bushes closely enough before removing.
Thanks,
Steven
When I try to tighten the main middle bolts the nut goes very tight before the washers contact the rubber bush. The washer doesn’t move freely and there is around 5mm between the washer and the rubber bush.
Can someone confirm the thickness of the washers and should I have the torque rods loosened while doing this?
Stupidly I never looked at the old bushes closely enough before removing.
Thanks,
Steven
- s28ven
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Hi Steven,
Is the nut hitting the shoulder of the bolt i.e. running out of thread?
Iain
Is the nut hitting the shoulder of the bolt i.e. running out of thread?
Iain
72 Sprint - 0363E
74 S130/5 - 1931L
74 S130/5 - 1931L
- sprintsoft
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sprintsoft wrote:Is yours like this?
It it like this except I have fitted the bolts the other way round because that’s the way they were before and I can’t get the bolts in the correct because of cv’s.
I don’t have the two small washers fitted below the larger washer under the diff ear though and it is very possible that it is hitting the shoulder. It was late and I am tired. Will try this tomorrow.
Would still be interested to know the thickness of the “snubber washer” as I am not convinced the ones in place are the correct thickness.
Thanks, Steven
- s28ven
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The spacers you’re referring to; mine measure at 52mm diameter by 3mm thick. There are two fitted per side, unless you have the diff strengthening bar fitted then you normally only need one spacer.
It does make the job a little easier if you release the torque rods, but not essential.
It does make the job a little easier if you release the torque rods, but not essential.
72 Sprint - 0363E
74 S130/5 - 1931L
74 S130/5 - 1931L
- sprintsoft
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s28ven wrote:It is like this except I have fitted the bolts the other way round because that’s the way they were before and I can’t get the bolts in the correct because of cv’s.
If by "the other way round" you mean you fitted the bolts with the threads at the bottom (and the fuel tank out or body off) then you need to turn them upside down. Why? Because if you don't, removal of the diff will in future require removal of the fuel tank, so you can draw the bolts out.
As to CVs, I have them on my car and can draw the diff mount bolts out easily. Plus 2, though..
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JonB - Coveted Fifth Gear
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The Bolts in the middle of the "Frustacones" should be fitted withe the heads at the bottom. A washer should be fitted under the Bolt Head to protect the Ears of the Diff Casing.
If you have CVs fitted i would strongly suggest you fit a Diff Brace like on Sprints and +2130 cars.
With a diff Brace fitted it may not be possible to fit the "big Penny Washer between the Diff Brace and top of Diff Ears. Depending if someone has jacked up under Chassis and bent it
I fitted TTR "Frustacones/Mounts" to my sprint and they are a very nice bit of kit.
Alan
If you have CVs fitted i would strongly suggest you fit a Diff Brace like on Sprints and +2130 cars.
With a diff Brace fitted it may not be possible to fit the "big Penny Washer between the Diff Brace and top of Diff Ears. Depending if someone has jacked up under Chassis and bent it
I fitted TTR "Frustacones/Mounts" to my sprint and they are a very nice bit of kit.
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
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Jon, I believe this is an S3 DHC so no problem with access to the top of the frustacones.
Alan, I know the book says put the bolt in from the bottom but I don't see any problem if inserted from the top, as long as the length is well clear of the drive components and there is a washer between the nyloc and the bottom of the diff ear all should be OK.
Alan, I know the book says put the bolt in from the bottom but I don't see any problem if inserted from the top, as long as the length is well clear of the drive components and there is a washer between the nyloc and the bottom of the diff ear all should be OK.
72 Sprint - 0363E
74 S130/5 - 1931L
74 S130/5 - 1931L
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sprintsoft wrote:Jon, I believe this is an S3 DHC so no problem with access to the top of the frustacones.
Alan, I know the book says put the bolt in from the bottom but I don't see any problem if inserted from the top, as long as the length is well clear of the drive components and there is a washer between the nyloc and the bottom of the diff ear all should be OK.
All present and correct.
Thinking about it more I think the nut must have hit the shoulder and the washers I have are only about 1mm each. So with this and the two smaller above the nut should solve the issue.
How tight would you suggest I take it. I have seen one post where it was tightened until the buss compressed and bulged out?
Thanks again, Steven
- s28ven
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you are ultimately tightening against the steel sleeve inside the frustacone so nothing should be 'bulging' out
72 Sprint - 0363E
74 S130/5 - 1931L
74 S130/5 - 1931L
- sprintsoft
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Hi Steven,
are you fitting a Diff brace because with CVs the cushion effect of the Rotoflexes is not there
I don't think the Diff Brace is too expensive. We don't want an Ear breaking off the Diff do we
I have seen them broken in the past and when they are welded back on it doesn't look very nice
Alan
are you fitting a Diff brace because with CVs the cushion effect of the Rotoflexes is not there
I don't think the Diff Brace is too expensive. We don't want an Ear breaking off the Diff do we
I have seen them broken in the past and when they are welded back on it doesn't look very nice
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
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