Solid Drive Shafts

[Type28]

Hi

Please see pictures below. My little car Has decided to play up again- what's new!!- the drive Shafts I think, are Susan Millar items- any Idea what the CV joint is from ? It has 25 splines and is 22 mm in diameter. It has a number, Stec 0610 on the side of it .A friend thinks they are Lobro Joints, although I have never herd of them?

Any ideas?

Cheers
George

[JimE]

I was told these were fit and forget. Sorry, doesn't help I know.

[Type28]

That's what I thought.....

[jono]

I replaced mine due to perceived play in the joints but it did not improve much - I put it down to general driveline lash.

The CV's are Granada/Scoprio I seem to recall. I bought new ones from the local motor factor and they fitted perfectly, cost a little less than ?30 each, maunfactured by Shaftech. The originals were by GKN but are no longer available.

What's the problem with yours?

Jon

[Type28]

Hi Jon

The bearing cage broke up. It has damaged the housing or I could have got a new bearing.

George

[Grizzly]

May be worth having a chat with http://www.kelsport.net i'm fairly sure they got the plans from Sue Miller when she stopped selling them. I know they did a couple of tweaks to them but i couldn't tell you what that was, best having a word with them.

[EPA]

I purchased some of the shaftec cv joints from Kelvedon (who where very helpful) and used them to replaced the ones fitted to the Miller shafts I purchased in 2013.
My Miller shafts are the later ones (which also used Shaftec cv joints) but yours are probably the earlier version with the Lobro cv joints.
The reason for changing the joints was that the rubber boots had split after about 7000 miles and as the joints used by Kelvedon are an improved spec I decided to replace them completely whilst I had the shafts off.
Time will tell if the boots last any longer - they are a slightly different design.
The joints were around ?30 each

Ed

[Type28]

Thanks for that Ed- I have sent them a e mail.
Cheers
George

[RichardHawkins]

George,

My understanding of these joints is that you need to limit the suspension droop, otherwise the joint will lock. My car is yet to turn a wheel, but with the suspension at full droop, rotation of the shaft is very lumpy. I shortened the damper shaft by 15mm, and that seems to have fixed it.

Richard Hawkins

[Hawksfield]

Hi
Demon tweaks sell genuine GKN CV,s GKN301142 ?46 +vat

You can get cheaper but not as good you take your choice

WHOOPS they have gone up ?58 now type unmodified no4 25 teeth x 100mm.

Good luck

[el-saturn]

lobro are the best: loebro is what all the german motorsport dept. used when i still worked in that area! so i wouldn't blame that part in the chain of possible failures! sandy

[DavyF]

On my +2s I have fitted Fiat X19 shafts with spacers, made by a engineer friend of mine, I haven't got trying them properly, but, it won't be too long (I hope)

[StressCraxx]

Hi Jon

The bearing cage broke up. It has damaged the housing or I could have got a new bearing.

George

There are two things that would cause the cage to fail, one is over extension as previously noted, or lack of lubrication. Grease is simply oil with a thickener, usually lithium soap. The oil separates from the thickener and the bearings or cage fail.

CV joint grease is less likely to separate, but it will eventually.

[Type28]

Thanks everyone for your comment and help. Got new CV joint ordered.
When I got the car I got new rear shocks fitted that limited the travel -but the damage could already have been done before I bought the car.
Cheers
George

[AussieJohn]

About to replace my cv's, the lubricant had separated and clear oil leaked out early days, I guess this is the cause of failure; any cv lubricant better than others?