Diff Output Shafts - What Slide Hammer?

[AlfaLofa]

I've been attempting to remove the drive shafts (with anti-flail pins) from a spare diff I've gotten hold of - without success to date.

I've soaked the bearings (over a period of days) with 'Liquid Wrench' and I've applied heat using a heat gun.

I've tried the (gently) tapping out method (as per the workshop manual) - but to no avail.

I've tried more vigourous hammering without success.

So I have a couple of questions:

Q1
How much heat do I need and where is the best place to apply the heat:
a) on the bearing face,
or
b) on the outer surface of the aluminium case

Q2
Have any of you slide-hammer users got a picture of the attachment you use to remove an output shaft when it has an anti-flail pin - or do I need to grind the pins away?

[Peter +2]

How about using a cut off old standard drive shaft with three long bolts and spacers to clear the pin?

Peter

By the way I gave up and passed my diff to a specialist to rebuild and replace the driveshaft's.

[Quart Meg Miles]

1. You need to expand the Ali while leaving the bearing as cold as possible, so try and shield the bearing face and pour boiling water over the casing near the bearing housing. St Wilkins didn't do that on mine (and broke his slide hammer) and I didn't think to try it myself in earlier removals.

2. Wilkins only bolted two of the three fingers to a simple metal plate to do the pulling. My shafts are the early size and I think he just had a different pair of holes for each model, including Europas I suppose, and it didn't matter about the spigot.

[Vic]

Here is what I use. I also have a shorter rod that allows me to slide hammer an axle, in the car with the outer suspension installed. The adapter is an old stub axle that I cut off and threaded to fit the slide hammer.

Vic

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[billwill]

You haven't actually mentioned removing the split pin circlip first, but I presume you did that.

[fatboyoz]

Steve,
I did mine a couple of months ago, in situ. I made up a flat plate, drilled in the centre to take the slide hammer and three holes to bolt through the ears of the diff' output shaft. In your case, you would have to use spacers and longer bolts, in the three holes, long enough to clear the anti-flail pin.
I used an electric heat gun to gently warm the case front and back, top and bottom. Also, make sure the area where the bearing is going to exit through is very clean.
Regards,
Colin.

I've been attempting to remove the drive shafts (with anti-flail pins) from a spare diff I've gotten hold of - without success to date.

I've soaked the bearings (over a period of days) with 'Liquid Wrench' and I've applied heat using a heat gun.

I've tried the (gently) tapping out method (as per the workshop manual) - but to no avail.

I've tried more vigourous hammering without success.

So I have a couple of questions:

Q1
How much heat do I need and where is the best place to apply the heat:
a) on the bearing face,
or
b) on the outer surface of the aluminium case

Q2
Have any of you slide-hammer users got a picture of the attachment you use to remove an output shaft when it has an anti-flail pin - or do I need to grind the pins away?

[AlfaLofa]

Thanks for the responses - and yes I have removed the large circlips!!

I haven't tried boiling water - I'll give that a go.

Unfortunately I haven't got an old shaft which can be adapted for use with a slide hammer.

Perhaps I'll knock up a 2-hole plate as suggested by Meg.

Peter - as a matter of interest which specialist did you send/take your unit to?

[512BB]

Steve,

I know a little about building diffs; parts-for-sale-f33/recon-differentials-for-sale-t18555.html

QUOTES;

I haven't tried boiling water - I'll give that a go. I use a blow torch. Nice and evenly, on low, just heat around the casing so that the heat is deflected towards the output shaft, and therefore away from the bearing. Slide hammer already attached, get the housing where the bearing sits, hot to the touch, pop pop pop, bearing removed, simples. You will be surprised how easily it comes out if you heat the casing up enough. If you don't have a blow torch, your heat gun will be fine, just get it HOT.

Unfortunately I haven't got an old shaft which can be adapted for use with a slide hammer. You do not need one. Just use old donut bolts and nuts. No spacers needed either.

Perhaps I'll knock up a 2-hole plate. No, knock up a 3 hole plate. A 2 hole plate will take the bearing out unevenly, 3 hole plate takes it out parallel to the housing, which is what you want, so long as you adjust the long bolts to the same length.

Leslie

[Peter +2]

Steve,

I used a local garage I know through a friend, they are an Alfa specialist Day & Whites at Brands Hatch.

http://www.dayandwhites.co.uk/

Both guys are called John and between them they have a history of Lotus and lots of connections in the car field. It was one of the "Old guys" they know who stripped and rebuilt my final drive including finding a replacement dif as mine was missing several teeth, they also fitted TT output shafts which I supplied. I have only moved the my +2 a few yards so cannot comment on the work but I have no reason to worry and I am grateful for the work they did.


You might also want to try these people, no connection, but they seem to have the right skills. BTW be prepared to replace your output shafts, mine looked very much like those in picture 12 labelled Oops!
http://www.arrowautoengineering.co.uk/page4.htm

Good luck

Peter