Overhauling the back end

[rgh0]

...... I wonder if I couldn't get away with greasing all the grease points and topping up the gearbox / diff oil? Problem is the diff looks like it will spit it all out again. I have Red Line MTL for both, having done a bit of on-forum research, and I think it might improve the gear shift. Of course, the gearbox is leaky, too, but I suspect less than the diff.

You should use Redline MTL for the gearbox only and Redline 75W90 gear oil for the diff. MTL is a GL4 oil specifically for manual gearboxes and the 75W90 is a GL5 oil specifically for hypoid diffs

cheers
Rohan

[JonB]

OK (reaches for the Opie Oils website address)...

[JonB]

Ok, a quick look at the back end this morning. As reported on another thread, donuts look OK but have tiny cracks and some stretching around the bolt holes.

Diff pinion seal is gone. Output shaft seals look better, still a tiny bit of leakage but most of the oil's sprayed out of the pinion seal. I've a Spyder chassis and I wonder if I can replace the pinion seal in situ? Anyone tried?

[alan.barker]

Make sure the breather on the diff is not blocked
Alan

[Bigbaldybloke]

Hi Jon
Not feasible to change the diff input seal in situ, no space once you have disconnected the prop shaft. If you are replacing donuts or fitting cv joints it?s not much more to remove the diff, on a spyder chassis it comes out the left hand side ok. While it?s out I?d change all the seals and refill it with oil before you put it back in

[JonB]

Make sure the breather on the diff is not blocked
Alan

Yes.. hard to do that with the diff in place, so I hear. If only I knew when the seals were last replaced.

[JonB]

Hi Jon
Not feasible to change the diff input seal in situ, no space once you have disconnected the prop shaft. If you are replacing donuts or fitting cv joints it?s not much more to remove the diff, on a spyder chassis it comes out the left hand side ok. While it?s out I?d change all the seals and refill it with oil before you put it back in

That's the plan I think... As I have the car on stands I can get under it, so I feel less intimidated by the job.

[JonB]

Time to get this thread back on track.

From other threads, I've completed the following:-

• Removed diff, clean and paint, fit new pinion seal, drain and refill with gear oil and refit.
• Fitted new N/S outer driveshaft and bearings.
• Cut the safety pins from the shaft spiders, ready for fitting CV shafts.
• Lapped in and fitted N/S rear hub

Doesn't sound like much, but it has taken me weeks so far. Left to do:

• Fit new diff stabiliser bushes
• Fit CV jointed driveshafts
• Free up N/S rear brake caliper and fit missing pad retaining pin
• Adjust handbrake pad preload / balance. I think this needs to be done because the tree fouls the doughnuts if the handbrake is left on when pulling away so it is probably getting pulled too far inwards.
• Bleed braking system, change fluid.
• Torque up N/S hub nut.

All parts are on order, including the CV shafts. Hey! One day it will be back on the road. It badly needs a clean and wax. Covered in all sorts of nasty dust, including grinding dust.

Some things are notable by their absence - like suspension bushes and new diff top mount rubbers. I do not have the tools to do the bushes (press and mandrels) and the top rubbers are difficult to get at. I'm going to leave it as-is and see how it goes. If the CV jointed shafts cause problems, the diff will be moving about and it will be very obvious (knocking noises).

[Bigbaldybloke]

Hi Jon
Good to see you are making progress, better than me recently, I?ve been laid low with this cold/cough bug that?s going around, not quite flu but pretty close. Did you fit the diff brace while it was out?
Wishbone bushes are possible without a press, I did mine in my big bench vice using a couple of carefully selected sockets to press the old bushes out and one to push the new ones in. I did have trouble getting one old one out so melted out the rubber with a gas torch then carefully split the remaining outer sleeve of the bush with a junior hacksaw. A bit of a pain but all possible in a home garage with a bit of ingenuity and determination!

[JonB]

Thanks, BBB!

I have the lurgy too, what a PITA. Garage is cold and damp, but I do what I can. Taking the rear wishbones off is just a matter of 4 bolts (the outers are already out), then I can have at it.

I do have a problem, though. The rear wheels have witness marks from the wishbone bolts. There's a ring of scraped metal right on the inner lip of the wheels. Clearance is very tight. I think it is caused by the outer bushes being worn and flexing too much under load. Possible?

[Donels]

I have successfully replaced the bushes using a threaded bar to pull them in and suitable spacers. Just coat liberally with a lubricant. You can use the same method to get them out but I also removed the rubber and inner sleeve using a junior hacksaw.

[JonB]

Another question, this time about the rear wishbone bolts.

According to this there are no washers under the bolt or nut:

http://www.lotuselan.net/wiki/DA_-_Rear_Suspension_%2B2

However, I spoke to Sue Miller and she said there are washers on the baby Elan suspension.

Which is correct?

[john.p.clegg]

JonB
Do your bolts have the thin heads?

John

Edit
If not , get them in the lathe and take them down 50%.

John

[JonB]

Yes, they all have thin heads.

[oldelanman]

Another question, this time about the rear wishbone bolts.

According to this there are no washers under the bolt or nut:

http://www.lotuselan.net/wiki/DA_-_Rear_Suspension_%2B2

However, I spoke to Sue Miller and she said there are washers on the baby Elan suspension.

Which is correct?

Washers are shown in the parts list.
https://www.rdent.com/manuals/index.html