Propshaft Position Through Chassis Tunnel

[RAJ2628]

Ian, Donels, Billwill
Thanks for your interest and response.
Billwill - I did a dry fit of the carbs and air box and there is plenty of space, confirming the 10mm vertical offset imparted through the 2 engine mounts. The 1.125" spacers are fitted.
Donels - The original mounts were beyond knackered. The car was stored in less than ideal conditions for 33 years and so much of the car was in an unfortunate condition. When I bought the mounts I measured the offset between the 2 mounts and the 2.35° Y axis engine tilt compares favourably with my friend's S4 which has a very similar tilt angle.
Ian - thanks for the photos. Today I removed the prop shaft, gearbox mounting and loosened the 4 chassis to mount bolts to see if I could re-set to a better condition in an attempt to move the engine and bell housing a bit more to the passenger side. I failed. However if there is a significant twist or off-set it has not affected the gearbox to chassis alignment, which you might think it would. The gearbox mounting plate fit without issue.
The upshot of today is that the assembly is good in many aspects but I still have that protrusion of part of the bell housing - starter motor cover. I know its just a couple of millimetres but it shouldn't be like that. Also the prop shaft routing seems to me a little more to the right than I expected.
I was hoping someone on the forum has seen this situation before and it not to be an issue, or had an answer for it. I am aware of the diff offset.
I have added a pdf with a few pics to show the prop shaft and a couple of the protruding bit of the SM cowl/cover.

Thanks

Al

[Hawksfield]

Al
Your diff mounting bolts are upside down. Nuts to the top.

John

[RAJ2628]

John
Thanks, I'll swap them around.
Al

[snowyelan]

Timely topic. I just went out to see what my clearance was like and my newly installed glass bowl pump (SJS) is touching the fiberglass. My starter cap is clear of the fiberglass. From pressing on the glass in the footwell there appears to be a 1/2" or so gap to the fiberglass, which makes sense with manufacturing tolerances considered.

I have new uprated engine mounts, and an approximately 1/4" insulating spacer between pump and engine. The spacer was used with my old smaller diameter pump, and the engine mounts appeared the same as the old ones less the 1/4" or so of vertical collapse. Exhaust side spacers are the same, as is the transmission mount.

I guess I'll order a smaller diameter pump. I don't think removing the insulator is a good idea. Heat soak and lever position relative to the cam lobe being my concerns.

Does anyone have an original pump they can measure, mounting flange to furthest point on the diameter?

[oldelanman]

I guess I'll order a smaller diameter pump. I don't think removing the insulator is a good idea. Heat soak and lever position relative to the cam lobe being my concerns.

Does anyone have an original pump they can measure, mounting flange to furthest point on the diameter?

The original pump measures 92 mm overall from the mounting flange. I have an all metal AC pump fitted currently to my Stromberg S4 (same engine mount both sides) and there is approximately 20-25mm clearance to the side of the footwell, I can't measure the pump in situ but the gap between mounting face on the block and the footwell is around 100 mm so with the original pump and insulating spacer fitted there would be little or no clearance. That said my S4 has a large soft rubber grommet in the side of the footwell adjacent to the pump which provides some extra clearance and avoids a hard foul condition. I'm fairly sure the grommet is original factory fitment so maybe was added by Lotus to later cars to overcome this problem ..anyone else have one on their car?

[lotusfan]

..anyone else have one on their car?

Yes - the grommet shown is not the original one. It is a sill jacking point grommet from an MG Midget which is a good fit.

[snowyelan]

Thanks for the pics and dimensions. My glass bowl measures the same, 92mm. I guess I'll order a smaller pump.

[quaybook]

There should be an access hole for greasing the front propshaft UJ through the chassis backbone and body on the driver's side (RHD) with a massive grommet sealing it. Drivers seat has to come out to get at it.

[Davidb]

I didn't want to further disturb this thread but thanks to the people who responded to my question about greasing the front u joint. I had removed the seat and the plug--my question was how to lube the actual u joint--I think somebody already answered: You fit a long grease nipple before you fit the driveshaft in the tunnel! I cannot get even a tiny grease gun onto the nipple because it won't go between the jaws of the yokes.