Tips on installing Rotoflex couplings

[tvacc]

Nice thing about the chain thing...you can vary the amount of the compression....

[richard sprint]

Thanks to all for their posts.

I fitted the rotoflex today on both sides but only the ones against against the discs as the chassis is off the car and therefore the wrong height to complete the installation.

I used the tip of tapering the bolts and this made it an easy install. I guess it will become more tricky once the drive shafts are ready to be fitted and access becomes tight.

One issue that I noticed is that the caliper does not sit equally across the disc on the n/s rear by approx 1 or 2 mm (there is however no fouling of the disc on the caliper). The inner wheel bearing is pressed into its full extent so cannot work out why there is this discrepancy?

If I were to fit a washer in between the caliper and its mountings this would be rectified but not sure this is good practise - would be interested in receiving others thoughts on this...

Richard

[lotusfan]

Richard

Do it - think of it as a spacer not a washer, I had to do the same thing on both sides.

[alexblack13]

Are your caliper mounting bolts drilled across the heads Richard? Some are some are not. If not drill them to take some lock wire.Torque them up then lock wire them to prevent slackning off. esp' if the calipers are on spacers to center them.

Probably teaching Grannie to suck eggs here. Sorry for that if its the case...

Alex...

[richard sprint]

Hi Alex

No the bolt heads are not drilled/wired (the originals were not either) but do have the sprung washers (the ones with a broken end). Have you ever experienced these coming loose? I would have thought that with the washer and 'thread loctite' and torqued up this would be sufficient?

I found a very thin washer yesterday as the gap off centre was more like half a mm, fitted a pair and this has corrected the 'off centre' position of the caliper....

[alexblack13]

Brill Richard, Well sorted mate. Any of the lock methods will work ok for you. I don't use Loctite here I must admit. Its easier to remove some lockwire slacken, then wind them out (I dose them with some copperslip) To each there own though.

I have not seen good new spring lock washers fail. I just use lockwire because its easy and we always used it when we raced Karts. Drilling the bolts is easy and lockwiring is foolproof and very cheap. When you have the kit. Proper pliers are the dear bit. Lock wire in stainless is not too bad and comes on a decent roll size. I have had mine for 10+ years. You Can borrow mine if you like. I will send you the kit. send it back when finished

Lotus Elan.net tool share club ??

BUT...You should be fine with any of the methods you mentioned.

Another step forward then!! Great !!

Alex B....

PS..Send me your bolts and I will drill them for you and send them back with the kit.

[richard sprint]

Thanks for offer Alex, I think I will stay with the sprung washers and 'thread' loctite. If after a shake down and spanner check there should be cause for alarm I may come back to you..

I've got one of the old BMW CSL bats and that has wire locked bolts so like the idea of getting some stainless wire for the forthcoming resto. - where could I get this and what are the pliers for tensioning this?

Richard

[alexblack13]

Hi Richard,
Use new lock washers and torque them up. You should not need Locktite which can make them a bu**er to shift again. Esp' if you use the wrong type! Nothing wrong with a bit of belt n braces though, so up to you.

lock wire kit is available at almost any car show stand selling decent quality tools etc. Failing that.. Demon tweeks would be a good supplier for E.G.

Pics of an example of what you are looking for. I have had these ones for a long time and they were made in far east. around 15 - 20 quid.. No real point in spending lots of money on them due to infrequency of use.

Hope this helps..

Alex B....