Removing diff output shaft bearings

PostPost by: vernon.taylor » Wed Apr 04, 2012 6:11 am

Salut

Along with Leslie's lovely looking diff, I managed to find a good diff case and late output drive shafts for not much money (always nice whan that happens).

The output shafts still have their bearings. How does one remove them, please - and put new ones?

I read up how to put things back together on the forum and am currently and discretely emptying the freezer :o

@+

Vernon
User avatar
vernon.taylor
Fourth Gear
Fourth Gear
 
Posts: 678
Joined: 05 Nov 2010

PostPost by: garyeanderson » Wed Apr 04, 2012 7:43 am

vernon.taylor wrote:Salut

Along with Leslie's lovely looking diff, I managed to find a good diff case and late output drive shafts for not much money (always nice whan that happens).

The output shafts still have their bearings. How does one remove them, please - and put new ones?

I read up how to put things back together on the forum and am currently and discretely emptying the freezer :o

@+

Vernon


Here ya go Vernon

This is the disassembly part. The assembly part is going to wait for a couple days till I get ready to press things back together again.

outpit shaft with bearing and snap ring.JPG and


outpit shaft with bearing and snap ring pliers.JPG and

This had been on the shelf for a while, If I were actully removing the bearing I would clean the rust off the output shaft before pulling.
outpit shaft with bearing and snap ring pliers expanded.JPG and


outpit shaft with bearing and snap ring removed.JPG and


Lefty Licy
outpit shaft with bearing puller inplace.JPG and


You will need

two new bearing 6202-rs2
two new seals, I beliewve they are 40 x 30 x 7mm
and a good press to reassemble.

The bearing puller does not need to be as large as what I show but to do the drive axle it does so buy a big one.

Gary
User avatar
garyeanderson
Coveted Fifth Gear
Coveted Fifth Gear
 
Posts: 2626
Joined: 12 Sep 2003

PostPost by: vernon.taylor » Wed Apr 04, 2012 11:59 am

Merci, Gary. Got the circlip pliers but not the puller. I'll have to be careful when I ask for one in a shop - if I make a mistake with the French translation, it might sound like 'dick puller' :shock:

@+

Vernon
User avatar
vernon.taylor
Fourth Gear
Fourth Gear
 
Posts: 678
Joined: 05 Nov 2010

PostPost by: ardee_selby » Wed Apr 04, 2012 12:08 pm

vernon.taylor wrote: ...it might sound like 'dick puller' :shock:

@+

Vernon


As Gary has said...you need to get a big one! :D

Bon chance avec - Richard
ardee_selby
Coveted Fifth Gear
Coveted Fifth Gear
 
Posts: 1090
Joined: 30 Sep 2003

PostPost by: Bud English » Sat Jun 23, 2012 6:25 pm

I searched the forum, both with the internal search engine and Google and didn't find what I was looking for. I'm going to ask the question here because it pertains to the same job and the thread is fresh...

I'm trying to remove the drive axles from the diff. The manual directs you to remove the clip and "gently tap" the axle out. That clearly wasn't written for my +2 that has been sitting for thirty plus years. I have removed the clip and cleaned the housing around the bearing. The housing is clean and not corroded, but the face of the bearing is clearly rusted. The gentle tap method isn't working. Right now both bearing faces are soaked down with PB Blaster while I regroup. I've seen pictures if blown out ally housings (thanks Gary) and don't want to go that route. There has to be a better way than just using a bigger hammer.

Any suggestions??
Bud
1970 +2S Fed 0053N
"Winnemucca - says it all really!!"
Bud English
Fourth Gear
Fourth Gear
 
Posts: 938
Joined: 05 Nov 2011

PostPost by: Kerryt333 » Sat Jun 23, 2012 6:34 pm

Hi Bud,
I had to use a bit of heat on the diff casing & a slide hammer.The slide hammer tends to keep the pulling force in a straight line
so less chance of shattering the diff casing.
Regards
John
Kerryt333
Second Gear
Second Gear
 
Posts: 69
Joined: 30 Nov 2009

PostPost by: AHM » Sat Jun 23, 2012 6:56 pm

If it isn?t coming out easily you haven?t applied enough heat to the aluminium. If it has been stuck in with bearing fit, that lets go at about 200 oC
AHM
Coveted Fifth Gear
Coveted Fifth Gear
 
Posts: 1251
Joined: 19 Apr 2004

PostPost by: garyeanderson » Sat Jun 23, 2012 7:01 pm

Kerryt333 wrote:Hi Bud,
I had to use a bit of heat on the diff casing & a slide hammer.The slide hammer tends to keep the pulling force in a straight line
so less chance of shattering the diff casing.
Regards
John


AHM wrote:If it isn?t coming out easily you haven?t applied enough heat to the aluminium. If it has been stuck in with bearing fit, that lets go at about 200 oC


This is the best advice I have read here, I agree 100% with both posts.

Gary
User avatar
garyeanderson
Coveted Fifth Gear
Coveted Fifth Gear
 
Posts: 2626
Joined: 12 Sep 2003

PostPost by: Bud English » Sat Jun 23, 2012 8:41 pm

Thanks everyone! Heat was the missing element. A few seconds with the MAPP gas torch and they popped off cleanly with the slide hammer.

I was only taking the diff apart to change the gasket and seals, but found one bearing completely shot. Wonder what I'll find when I disassemble the trans to change those gaskets and seals. :shock:
Bud
1970 +2S Fed 0053N
"Winnemucca - says it all really!!"
Bud English
Fourth Gear
Fourth Gear
 
Posts: 938
Joined: 05 Nov 2011

Total Online:

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 20 guests