Prop Shaft Removal Spyder Chassis with MT75 Gearbox
3 posts
• Page 1 of 1
The MT75 gearbox (as used in Spyder's Zetec conversions) has a large output flange which requires 4 screws to attach it to the mating propshaft flange.
It's a bit of a nuisance in that the propshaft flange diameter is too large to fit through the centre tunnel. This means that the engine and gearbox must be removed should the propshaft ever need maintenance/removal. It also means that should one wish to do alignment checks on the rear axle pinion flange and gearbox output flange, that this job becomes extremely challenging.
Objective, see if it is possible to modify the propshaft so that it can be removed with the engine/gearbox in-situ.
Solution, as the propshaft flange bolts to the gearbox flange with only 4 screws, the sides of the propshaft flange can be machined off. See sketch. The flange can then be withdrawn back through the chassis (through the reinforcing web) and out through the bottom of the chassis.
Note, to preserve the rotating balance of the propshaft, care is required with the machine tool setup to make sure the same amount of metal is removed fromn both side of the flange. In addition, I'm planning on taking the reassembled propshaft back to the balancer to ensure "perfect" rotating balance.
Regards
It's a bit of a nuisance in that the propshaft flange diameter is too large to fit through the centre tunnel. This means that the engine and gearbox must be removed should the propshaft ever need maintenance/removal. It also means that should one wish to do alignment checks on the rear axle pinion flange and gearbox output flange, that this job becomes extremely challenging.
Objective, see if it is possible to modify the propshaft so that it can be removed with the engine/gearbox in-situ.
Solution, as the propshaft flange bolts to the gearbox flange with only 4 screws, the sides of the propshaft flange can be machined off. See sketch. The flange can then be withdrawn back through the chassis (through the reinforcing web) and out through the bottom of the chassis.
Note, to preserve the rotating balance of the propshaft, care is required with the machine tool setup to make sure the same amount of metal is removed fromn both side of the flange. In addition, I'm planning on taking the reassembled propshaft back to the balancer to ensure "perfect" rotating balance.
Regards
- gerrym
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 882
- Joined: 25 Jun 2006
Hi
the file U have attached does not seem to be a .doc. so cant open it up (using word2004 for MAC which is usually OK on any .doc extender)
without seeing the picture I would have thought that machining the flange in a lathe to reduce its diameter would tend to result in a reasonable balance at best or not too much of a re-balance at worst.
wouldnt want to get to close to the fixing holes though
best of luck
Bob Richardson
the file U have attached does not seem to be a .doc. so cant open it up (using word2004 for MAC which is usually OK on any .doc extender)
without seeing the picture I would have thought that machining the flange in a lathe to reduce its diameter would tend to result in a reasonable balance at best or not too much of a re-balance at worst.
wouldnt want to get to close to the fixing holes though
best of luck
Bob Richardson
- bob_rich
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 555
- Joined: 06 Aug 2009
Pictures say it all.
Calcs tell me I'm still well within permitted imbalance (machining tolerance less than 0.1mm parallelism error). Will probably still get it rebalanced. Photo 2 & 3 shows it going through the bulkhead. Photo 1 shows it coming out through the belly.
Regards
Gerry
Calcs tell me I'm still well within permitted imbalance (machining tolerance less than 0.1mm parallelism error). Will probably still get it rebalanced. Photo 2 & 3 shows it going through the bulkhead. Photo 1 shows it coming out through the belly.
Regards
Gerry
- gerrym
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 882
- Joined: 25 Jun 2006
3 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Total Online:
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 27 guests