Tips on installing Rotoflex couplings

PostPost by: richard sprint » Thu Sep 03, 2009 10:48 pm

I seem to recall a past post to the effect that one installs the new couplings then cuts the metal band?

I offered up the rotoflexes this evening but the holes do not line up - so the question is does one have to get brutal to get the bolts through or should the metal band be removed first?

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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Thu Sep 03, 2009 11:37 pm

Metal band has to remain on. That's what squeezes the rubber enough to get the bolts in. Make sure your axle is 'inline' with the stub axle, ie, not drooping. Even with the band on, I remember struggling to get the last bolt in.

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PostPost by: richard sprint » Thu Sep 03, 2009 11:40 pm

Thanks Greg - I will have to get brutal it seems...

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PostPost by: 1964 S1 » Fri Sep 04, 2009 2:20 am

Greetings, the archives here explain it pretty well.... I use a pair of vise grips clamped just under the bolt head, parallel to the bolt, and "steer" it in. I've done a bunch and to tell you the truth, it wasn't difficult. (ONCE you figure out how to get an Elan high enough to get under it to figure out how high you need to get it to reach up and in and swing your elbows while supporting the outer suspension in a fashion to let the hub rotate.) As Greg says, line up the axles. I start at the differential end and allow for full rotation of the drivetrain.
Eric

oh yeah, almost forgot, keep all the nuts loose on the bolts until you've got all the bolts through the rotos, at both ends... if you have probs, check out our archives, it's full of suggestions/solutions.
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PostPost by: reb53 » Fri Sep 04, 2009 6:14 am

A good way to make things a lot easier is to have bolts that are longer than necessary so that you can grind a taper on the end. That allows you to give them a "little" tap to get them through with-out destroying the thread.

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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Fri Sep 04, 2009 8:09 am

Hi Guys,
These are a little fiddley to fit. Even with the metal banding in place the holes are always a little out of line.To help this try the following, (which can all be done before getting on ones hands and knees). Do you have an old driveshaft? Even better. Take THREE jubillee clips and make up a new metal band.Make sure the 'adjusters' as we will call them are evenly spaced around the coupling so you can adjust each hole a little.You can draw them up evenly to obtain the correct spacing. Use the old drive shaft as a 'jig' to test. Get the best fit you can before going below. Plenty of copperslip and as Ralph said grind a small lead in taper on the bolts if need be. This works! sometimes also you need to wiggle the bolts a bit to get them entered into the holes.

Its a pain of a job though. Main reason I went the Spyder driveshaft route. I only have two to worry about now. :?


Have fun now....

Alex B.... 8)
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PostPost by: johnsimister » Fri Sep 04, 2009 4:32 pm

Doughnuts don't have to be so problematic. I've had many tuned Imps over the years which used identical doughnuts, and the Rootes Group used to supply its dealers with a clamp to make removal and replacement easier. The clamp consisted of a not-quite-complete circle of steel band with the open ends bent outwards at right angles and a clamping bolt between the two ends to close the circle up and compress the doughnut as required.

Colin Valentine of the Imp Club had a batch of replicas made a few years ago, one of which I have. I recently used it on my Elan and the doughnut removal/replacement was a doddle provided the driveshaft was horizontal.

I've been down the three-hoseclips route and, while it does work, it's laborious and the clips tend to cut into the rubber on the metal leaves. The proper tool avoids this damage and is much quicker to use. I would even use it on new doughnuts instead of the band with which they are supplied, because I could then ensure the holes are in exactly the right place instead of being annoyingly misaligned.

I don't know if Colin still has any of his compressors but he can be contacted on 01904 738708.

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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Fri Sep 04, 2009 5:40 pm

Got a picture of the clamp John? Sounds V intersting.

I found the rubber already slightly damaged when I took off the metal bands from the new ones. Prevented any more with strips of inner tube. So no more damage.
Laborious?? I use my little lecy (Bosch) nut driver on the hexes of the clips.Easy peasy & as quick as you like. I like the three clips 'cause you can 'adjust' each hole individually. Works really well!

I always thought the imp ones were different. Someone on Epay is selling what looks like these as Elan type, and the ones I looked at were not for the Lotus Elan!. They did not have the 'intermediate' metal leaves between the 'bolt hole' leaves. I remember trying them on My +2. They fitted but did not last and wound up even morer than Lotus item. Producing a very 'surgy' drive.

I take it the comp' Imp guys are using the heavier duty lotus type?

The proper clamp sounds like the answer though. Lets have a look at the pic's.We can perhaps have some made & it might be worth talking to Colin. Will it be ok just to ring him out of the blue as it were?

Alex B....
Last edited by alexblack13 on Fri Sep 04, 2009 10:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: andyelan » Fri Sep 04, 2009 5:50 pm

Hi Richard

I've just done the donuts on my Plus 2 and didn't find it too much of a problem but you do need to compress the road spring or you will struggle. Use a pair of spring clamps.

Also don't forget that 9 bolts out of the 12 per side are specials and not standard items

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PostPost by: johnsimister » Fri Sep 04, 2009 8:57 pm

Alex, you're right that the tuned-Imp people use 'competition' doughnuts which are the Elan type with an additional leaf between the main bolt-carrying leaves. Standard Imp doughnuts would be hopeless in an Elan, and the poor-quality ones too often sold in the past (they sometimes had 'CUK' moulded into the rubber) were hopeless in Imps too. I used to break them regularly.

It should be OK to phone Colin Valentine. I'm sure he'd be pleased at the possibility of selling more doughnut clamps if he's still involved with making them, or he could point you in the right direction for acquiring one. He's one of the Imp Club's two competition secretaries. That said, it probably wouldn't be hard to make your own. I'll post a pic over the weekend.

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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Fri Sep 04, 2009 10:14 pm

Does anyone know anyone who has bought the 'Lotus' couplings from Ebay?

Ok John I look forward to havin a look at the pics of the clamp.

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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Fri Sep 04, 2009 10:45 pm

The couplings I am talking about are said to be from Portugal and are (In my opinion) Def' not suitable for Elan /+2 . They are the non HD Imp type. And he is asking about 75 quid a pair. There are a pair for sale now

John, I also saw a coupling clamp on Ebay. Have a look and tell me if its the same..


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PostPost by: johnsimister » Sat Sep 05, 2009 12:50 pm

The clamp on eBay is exactly the same as mine. Pic below - had to do an image grab as eBay won't let you pull pics off an ad onto the desktop any more.

John
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Rotoflex clamp.jpg and
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PostPost by: tvacc » Sat Sep 05, 2009 1:32 pm

YOu can also use a Vice Grips with the Chain attachment. I have been using it for years. Dont know where I bought it...but I will look.

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jht ... arch=false

They are made by Irwin...available at most major retailers.
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Sat Sep 05, 2009 5:02 pm

There you go guys. Two very good options 'off the shelf so to speak.Add the clips route and you have no excuses for having difficulty fitting roto's... :D :D The chain device could be used for other uses also.. Very interesting!!

I have the way to do it now and the metal in stock :roll:

Cheers for that guys.

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