How to repack a non repackable silencer.

[Spyder fan]

Keith,
I'm bumping your old topic with thanks as I have just repacked the Tony Thompson Stainless Steel rear silencer on my +2 using your method apart from I used an angle grinder to cut through the casing and then a hacksaw to cut through the perforated tube which took about 10 minutes in total.

The Accoustafil was easy to obtain and very good value at less than £15 including postage. Fabricating the joining band, fitting the new packing and reassembly took a couple of hours.

A straightforward job that's saved me over £300 (£299 + VAT & Carriage for a new one) and was very enjoyable to do.

[alanr]

Interesting...
Have you tested it yet?....Just interested from a noise reduction point of view?
I tend to get an exhaust booming sound when taking my foot of the pedal at high speed and I would love to quieten it down a bit. This seems like it might be a low cost solution.

Alan.

[Spyder fan]

Interesting...
Have you tested it yet?....Just interested from a noise reduction point of view?
I tend to get an exhaust booming sound when taking my foot of the pedal at high speed and I would love to quieten it down a bit. This seems like it might be a low cost solution.

Alan.

Hi Alan,
Testing is taking place on Thursday this week when I have refitted the silencer. Full disclosure in that I have a Zetec +2 with 2 1/2 inch header outlet reducing to 2 inch to a micro 80mm diameter centre silencer before the Tony Thompson rear silencer (also 2 inch diameter).

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/je ... ch-u405120

I noticed this year on longer trips that the system was droning between 60 & 70 mph, something it didn’t used to do, so I started to suspect the packing was going inside the silencers. The micro silencer is only £40 so no point trying to repack that, but the rear silencer is a fair chunk of money, so worth the effort. The label on the rear silencer says 2010 so it’s been around the block. There was still a fair amount of wadding inside the box, but it was pretty loose fill, so no doubt it was definitely not doing its job properly and the stainlesssteel wool around the perforated tube was mostly gone..

I will report back on the weekend, but I’m pretty confident it will be a big improvement and back to what I was used to back in 2010.

[alanr]

Hi Alan,
I will await your test report with keen interest!

Alan.

[Spyder fan]

I’m pleased to report a successful test drive. The exhaust now makes the right sporty noise without being overly loud or droning, very pleased with the result. It was getting a bit tiresome on long journeys, but it will be a pleasure on the motorway once again.

You can just make out the new Jetex 80mm diameter centre silencer that replaces an item dating from 2008, the rear silencer was repacked using Keith’s method as described in his original post.

[alanr]

Very Good Alan! Pleased it was a sucess
I shall have to have a go at mine now and do the same, hopefully I can achieve a similar result on a twincam engined car. I do need to quieten it somehow.

Alan.

[Hawksfield]

Hi interesting I have two ss rear silencers from Paul Matty that did not have fibre in them they are a distrubted path and therefore cannot be filled. My silencer is an inline on a S130. Can anyone tell me which makes have absorption fillings. As if I get a replacement that will be the way to go

Thanks John

[StressCraxx]

My compliments on a clever repair. Glass, ceramic, or stainless steel wool mufflers should be sold as a repackable item, instead of welded or crimped together. All of those materials are consumable in exhaust systems. I have a race muffler I use for Laguna Seca that is easily replackable just by removing three small capscrews.

[Spyder fan]

Very Good Alan! Pleased it was a sucess
I shall have to have a go at mine now and do the same, hopefully I can achieve a similar result on a twincam engined car. I do need to quieten it somehow.

Alan.

Adding a centre silencer would be a good way of improving noise levels. The Jetex 80mm diameter micro silencers give good ground clearance and don’t weigh much, no need for extra hangers. I can recommend their single bolt clamps, very sturdy and can be fitted so there are no bolt heads protruding below.
Here’s a link for the clamps https://jetex.co.uk/product/stainless-4 ... eter-pipe/
They do all bore sizes just search for your pipe size

Centre silencer https://jetex.co.uk/product/round-silen ... olume1-2l/

[Spyder fan]

My compliments on a clever repair. Glass, ceramic, or stainless steel wool mufflers should be sold as a repackable item, instead of welded or crimped together. All of those materials are consumable in exhaust systems. I have a race muffler I use for Laguna Seca that is easily replackable just by removing three small capscrews.

My thoughts exactly that silencers should be repackable especially if the casing and tubing is stainless steel, it seemed such a waste to replace something that just needed some new wadding.

[reb53]

[quote it seemed such a waste to replace something that just needed some new wadding.[/quote]

I repacked my stainless twin pipe one a couple of times.
It didn't take long for the packing to disappear and the car sounded like, to quote one bi-stander, " an old tractor".
I thought, " why am I effing around with this" ?
So I went down to the local muffler place, measured up a bit of his stock, and fitted something that looked like it'd do.
On the basis that if it didn't, it didn't cost much, and I'd try again.
It was fine. Not too noisy, but a slightly "sporty" note.
I think it was for a Datsun of some type, and, as it contains no fiberglass, 25 years later it's fine.
I've got plenty of other things to over think without these type problems !
Have a good New Year !

Ralph.