fitting exhaust headers

[DonKearley]

Does anybody have a strategy for getting the exhaust headers in/out?
I was puzzled by the dents and welds on the exhaust headers of my S4, but I quickly realised where they came from when I tried to extract the headers before removing the engine for a gear-box overhaul. In the end I gave up and got the engine out with semi-dangling exhaust headers using a crow-bar to persuade the pipe around the chasis engine-mounting lug. I will replace the headers with shiny new stainless ones, but do I really have to reverse that procedure to get it all back? Is there a better way - please?

[john.p.clegg]

You could replace the studs with allen screws,helicoils in the head...

John

[msd1107]

Not only COULD you replace the studs with allen head bolts, but you SHOULD. It may have been possible to get the old cast manifolds off the studs without major mayhem. If you buy new headers, it most likely will be nearly impossible to install them without the studs being removed first. If you really want the studs, remove them first, then double nut them on the outside, then screw them in, remove the outside nut, then tighten.

David
1968 36/7988

[twincamman]

ok ....i removed the studs and replaced them with cap head bolts thiis alows more wiggle room

[AHM]

Nothing wrong with studs.

I read on this forum that it is easier to feed them up from below - works for me

[MickG]

Hi Don,
I think this has already been suggested but as AHM has stated it's easier to fit them from below.
Not too sure I can explain this well but here goes. Remove the engine mount on the exhaust side after supporting the engine. Feed the two manifolds, headers call them what you will down between the engine and the chassis and arrange them as they are to fit on the head. Then lift the loose assembly up and on the studs. It still requires a little fiddling but is relatively stress free. I was quite amazed how easy it was and would be a lot easier with cap screws as suggested by others. Then refit the engine mount, job done .

[john.p.clegg]

Mick

Slightly confused...." it's easier to fit them from below."...... "Feed the two manifolds, down between the engine and the chassis"

Does that mean drop them in from above but work below to fit them??

John

[MickG]

Hi John ,
Yes sorry about that I used AHM's post incorrectly
What I meant although did not explain too well was to lower the manifolds down from the top and then raise them up both together. All done while standing and dangling over the front wing.
There is no need to get under the car until you connect the pipes to the Y piece.
Still dosent make a lot of sense does it. To be honest its easier for me to do than explain.

Regards Mick G

[RichC]

from below is only way i have found on +2 . remove dynamo also.
I fitted a set of SS headers from Susan Miller in summer . .

[DonKearley]

Thanks for all suggestions. Have found the Allen bolts and will refit it all when the gearbox comes back.

[rgh0]

Make sure you use a good quality anti sieze on the socket head bolts so they come out easily next time. i use the Loctite nickel anti sieze. Also get a ball headed allen key to do them up as it gives you easier access at an angle where its needed
cheers
Rohan

[JJDraper]

Don't know if this helps, but I will pass on my technique used on my +2.

First, place a jack under the sump, with a piece of wood/plank or some such in order to take the weight of the engine when you remove the engine bracket & alternator/dynamo.

Remove gearbox/exhaust pipe bracket. Then gently jack up the engine/gearbox until you can get to all header nuts OK. Undo the nuts & remove to a safe place (i.e lose them). Prise away the header/manifold - generally don't even need to split them from the main system/'Y' piece if all you want is to remove the head. If the purpose is to remove the headers from the system, then you have to wiggle them about to remove from the 'Y' piece. With no alternator/engine mount in the way, this is pretty easy. As the say, reassembly is the reverse - except you need to buy new nuts to replace those now in a safe place.. Always keep a stock of spare ones.

If working on the engine, lower engine & refit engine mount until ready to put it all back together. When the new Spyder chassis was fitted, their special engine mounts made it even easier. However the method above worked fine well the old conventional folded steel chassis.

I find this method works fine, especially if all you want to do is replace the exhaust header gaskets - if you haven't used gasket cement.

Jeremy

[billwill]

I shortened my exhaust studs to the minimum, barely half a turn of thread showing when done up tight, but even so I found that I could not get my twinned manifolds down along side the engine after I had put the head on the engine. This was without disconnecting the engine mount (which I did not try).

I took the head back off again, then put the exhaust pipes into approx the right place, then put the head back on, wiggled the pipes onto the exhaust studs etc etc.