Mysterious Coolant Leak

[david.g.chapman]

My +2 has been sitting in the garage (in winter) for a few weeks now, but is suffering from an intermittant coolant leak appearing at the bottom of the bellhousing.

There is no leak for days at a time, and then a small pool of coolant appears (10 or 20 drops worth). Then the leak stops again. The engine has not been run.

I can see no evidence of leakage from the hoses, core plugs, drain plugs etc. The radiator is new,and the water pump looks OK. The cylinder head gasket at the back looks dry.

There is no problem with coolant in the oil or combustion chamber problems.

Assuming that the block is not cracked, is there anything else at the back of the engine that could cause the leak?

Dave Chapman.

[stuartgb100]

Dave,

Does it definitely taste as being coolant?

Regards.

[elanman999]

Dave,
There is a core plug at the back of the block but that one does not normally rust from the outside. It could also be dripping down from the heater connections, are the clips tight?
Best of luck.
John

[Dave-M]

Condensation inside the Bell Housing?
Dave-M

[nebogipfel]

Dave. My vote also goes to the core plug on the back of the block behind the flywheel.

Unfortunately they do rust from the inside

[lotusanglia1965]

Seconded ,sorry,
Martin

[Elanintheforest]

My heater hose gave out just by the heater matrix...some dribbled down and found it's way out just by the bellhousing. The hose had perished just after the clip, so no matter how tight the clip...it came out. Try moving the hose around to see if it drips. A nice easy fix if it is that!
Mark

[david.g.chapman]

I did not about a core plug at the back - I only have the Brooklands Books manual on the +2 and there is no view of this part of the engine.

It is definitely coolant - and the heater hoses look OK.

Anyone know how to change the plug without taking the engine out!!!

Dave.

[twincamman]

yes--- but it involves a sacrificed goat a voodoo chant and secret meetings at midnight ed

[nebogipfel]

Or remove the starter and assuming you have a very thin long arm jointed in 6 places ........... sorry no, It would still be impossible.

So it's back to magic chants and sacrificing small furry animals I'm afraid

Sorry I know this doesn't help

[twincamman]

look----the coolant may be traveling down the chassis or under the motor or tranny to drip at the lowest point or first hole it comes to -it could be from the drain tap on the left side of the block --so before you yard the engine give a close look at all the hoses and clamps and the condition of the rad and water pump ----clean the motor and tranny with lots of water and var sol until its squeaky clean--- then move it when dry to an area with paper or cardboard under the car so you can see what is leaking where --check to see if its from the clutch slave cylinder-and heater systems -then run the engine the pressure when hot will drastically increase the flow if its the plug----[this will be much easier on the furry animal population ]--if you want a car that wont leak get out of British cars buy a caddie ed

[type26owner]

Anytime you've got a freezeplug leak like this it's good practice to ponder if this was aggreviated by a stray electric field. One not so obvious a source in that local area would be from a radio or the starter.

Best not to use the engine block as an electrical conductor for the headlight circuit for instance.

And for crying out loud install a ground from the radiator to the engine if you've got an electric fan. It uses the coolant as the path otherwise. Corrosion is driven by tiny electrical potentials.

Install brass ones back in there especially around the alternator. The AC field is a killer.

You need to know this stuff before tearing into it so you can recognize the symptoms.

[david.g.chapman]

Thanks for all your replies.

I have run the engine, and the leak got worse for a few minutes (a drip a second) and then dried up. This probably because of the Bars Leaks I had added earlier. There was no sign of my blue coolant anywhere (except at the base of the bellhousing).

Bars Leaks can be quite useful as it is supposed to lubricate the water pump as well as blocking any leaks that might form. I have been told that Jaguar used to add it to new cars!! What do you all think?

However, I have a suspect core plug with possible wafer thin edges around a developing hole. If the hole enlarges quickly, the Bars Leaks will be overwhelmed.

So I am pulling the engine - first time for me!!

Dave Chapman

[twincamman]

good luck ---are you pulling the engine tranny as a single unite?--get a hoist so you can maneuver round and get a hand from a buddy [ hoists test the shear strength of the wires and ground straps you forgot to un do ] ----ed ------- Jags needed all the help they could get to stop leaks --must have supported a whole shift at bars leak

[david.g.chapman]

Just the engine - the gearbox/clutch was overhauled a few thousand miles ago.
I will take the opportunity to look at the flywheel as well - I have some mild clutch judder.

Dave Chapman.