Engine Removal & Clutch SS
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I am about to lift my engine out and was wondering if it is ok to leave the clutch slave cylinder in place and fully slacken off the pushrod instead. It is just that I am having trouble trying to remove the large circlip. Also, is it ok not to loosen off any gearbox mounting bolts and to leave the plastic trim/rubber gearstick gaitor. in place inside the car. I have remembered to remove the reverse gear switch so that when the gearbox is angled up it won't ruin the wiring.
- William2
- Fourth Gear
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- Joined: 20 Jan 2013
Not sure about leaving clutch slave. Best way to remove the circlip is a pair of those reversing circlip pliers (squeeze handle & tips move outwards) and then file sideways notches in a pair of tips.
Bill Williams
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
- billwill
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William2
Hi I have just finished an engine removal to sort my usual oil leaks and other improvements.
I removed the engine and left the gearbox with slave cylinder attached and gearbox mounting in place.
I put a jack under the gearbox to stop it hanging on the mounts, there is no need to remove the activating rod/ pushrod or gear lever shift lever
I did not even remove the reverse gear switch or wiring, it was due to be re terminated at this time
Hi I have just finished an engine removal to sort my usual oil leaks and other improvements.
I removed the engine and left the gearbox with slave cylinder attached and gearbox mounting in place.
I put a jack under the gearbox to stop it hanging on the mounts, there is no need to remove the activating rod/ pushrod or gear lever shift lever
I did not even remove the reverse gear switch or wiring, it was due to be re terminated at this time
John
+2s130 1971
+2s130 1971
-
Hawksfield - Fourth Gear
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- Joined: 14 Jul 2004
I have just managed to remove my engine (minus cylinder head) from the car having separated it from the gearbox without trouble. I had to remove the reverse light gearbox switch first so that I could raise the engine sufficiently for the sump to clear the forward cross member, otherwise the switch would have hit the chassis cross hoop member. Surely this switch has to come out for any engine removal. It is so much easier to get at all the various mounting nuts and bolts with the head removed and I can't think of any real negatives for refitting the head once the engine is back in the car.
- William2
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 921
- Joined: 20 Jan 2013
If you replace head when engine is already in car at least you can access the top starter screw and bellhousing screws easily. But if you still have a Generater and Voltage control box when using dowels to lower head it can hit the Voltage control box.
Alan
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
- alan.barker
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William2
My elan is a +2 and does not have a loop x member.
You did not identify what your car is so I just itemised what I did.
I prefer to remove the engine complete but replace block then head much easier to restore ancilliaries
Good luck with the leaks
My elan is a +2 and does not have a loop x member.
You did not identify what your car is so I just itemised what I did.
I prefer to remove the engine complete but replace block then head much easier to restore ancilliaries
Good luck with the leaks
John
+2s130 1971
+2s130 1971
-
Hawksfield - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 611
- Joined: 14 Jul 2004
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