Bad day today - 2 oil leaks and clutch is worse when hot

PostPost by: terryp » Sat Jun 21, 2014 1:42 pm

Hello
I thought I was getting there but today 3 more problems.......
1. My clutch that was better now gets worse when the car is hot. I'm running silicone fluid and wondered whether this compresses more with heat? I've made a little heat shield to try and shield the slave cylinder from the exhaust , this has made it a little better but not completely?
2. Oil leak on the little shelf at the back of the exhaust side of the head. See picture. I have been scanning the archives and it must be from the rear head bolt coming out the gasket. (The d cups and cam cover is dry at the back). The quantity is a covering on the little shelf after a 4 mile spirited run) Is it possible to seal a bolt and is it ok to remove 1 bolt and apply sealant and then retorque just the one bolt?
3. Oil leak from fuel pump, this seems to be coming out on the bottom seam of the pump almost if it's porous? Is this possible? I can see an electric pump approaching!

Thanks Terry.
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image.jpg and
Oil leaking onto top little shelf.
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PostPost by: alan » Sat Jun 21, 2014 5:55 pm

hi Terry,
the o?l leak on the fuel pump is from the little hole in the fuel pump bottom casting. This is to let fuel escape if the diaphragm has a hole. The problem with the mechanical pump is you can find a refurb kit but there is never the special round seal in the kit which stops the leak.
If you fit an electric petrol pump why not but remember to fit a pressure regulater in the line to control pressure.
A+ Alan
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PostPost by: fatboyoz » Sun Jun 22, 2014 4:30 am

Terry,
I also had limited success using silicon fluid in my clutch. Also made a heat shield, but eventually went back to DOT 3 fluid. Has been fine since.

Also had a very similar leak that you discribe in your second question. I eventually tracked it down to a leak from the rear-most oil gallery plug. There are four of these. The forward and aft plugs on my head are single hex' headed plugs and are located adjacent to the front and rear exhaust exits. The other two are located between 1 and 2 and 3 and 4. I fixed the problem by using Viton O'rings under the heads.
Perhaps a good clean around the area using brake cleaner, and then good illumination whilst running the engine at idle will reveal all.
Cheers,
Colin.
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PostPost by: terryp » Sun Jun 22, 2014 8:45 am

Thanks Alan , Colin
The funny thing was I was leak free for about 50 miles. The area around that oil plug is also completely dry.
I have to take the car for its CT on Tuesday which is a bit of a run so I'll see how much leaks out after that.
Any body know whether I can take out one head bolt?

Thanks
Terry
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Sun Jun 22, 2014 9:00 am

I have slackened a fraction of a turn and then re-tightened individual head bolts many times without problems. But never fully removed a bolt to apply sealant but I don't see why it would not be possible.

Worth a try as then downside is you have to remove the head anyway to fix the leak

cheers
Rohan
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PostPost by: terryp » Sun Jun 22, 2014 9:34 am

Thanks Rohan.

Terry
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PostPost by: Elan45 » Sun Jun 22, 2014 1:35 pm

Use the green wicking Loctite to seal an already installed bolt or plug. I can't remember the number, but I'm sure your dealer will know. I first started using it on the banjo fitting that feeds oil to the head and cam on my Coventry Climax engine, and that's even under pressure.

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PostPost by: terryp » Sun Jun 22, 2014 1:41 pm

Roger
Is that without removing the bolt I.e round the head?
Thanks
Terry
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PostPost by: terryp » Sun Jun 22, 2014 1:49 pm

Loctite 290 penetrating!
Thanks Roger

Terry
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PostPost by: Elan45 » Sun Jun 22, 2014 5:01 pm

Terry,
I typically assemble clean parts, or in a case like yours, I'd spray brakecleaner on the assembled fastener, let thouroughly evaporate, then apply the wicking Loktite externally to the joint. When I use this on the banjo bolt on the Coventry Climax, I let it cure overnight.

I first used this product in the late 70's, with not so good results. The stuff is much better now .

Roger
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'67 Elan S3 SE upgrade to 26R by Original owner
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'70 Elan +2S RHD
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PostPost by: terryp » Sun Jul 27, 2014 10:03 am

alan wrote:hi Terry,
the o?l leak on the fuel pump is from the little hole in the fuel pump bottom casting. This is to let fuel escape if the diaphragm has a hole. The problem with the mechanical pump is you can find a refurb kit but there is never the special round seal in the kit which stops the leak.
If you fit an electric petrol pump why not but remember to fit a pressure regulater in the line to control pressure.
A+ Alan


Alan
Hope you are well. I don't suppose you know of a fix for that little seal? It's getting very annoying. Seems to be worse in this hot weather.
All the best
Terry
Ps I'm not in the CLF anymore!
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PostPost by: nomad » Sun Jul 27, 2014 11:48 am

The green loctite I'm familiar with will lock whatever it's used on permanently so that the item can't be removed without heat! Its great stuff if used as intended. I've used lot's of it, but wouldn't recommend it for that application. Blue loctite is for locking threaded fasteners temporarily. Perhaps it will do your sealing for you as well.

Kurt
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PostPost by: twincamman » Sun Jul 27, 2014 4:39 pm

Just two oil leaks????? Lucky you ..... I carry a spare quart of oil .......Ed
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Editor: On June 12, 2020, Edward Law, AKA TwinCamMan, passed away; his obituary can be read at https://www.friscolanti.com/obituary/edward-law. He will be missed.
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PostPost by: terryp » Sun Jul 27, 2014 6:35 pm

2 at the moment Ed, but the gaskets are only 200miles old! Plenty of time to find a few more I suppose

Terry
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