Girling Hydraulics Clutch

[graboo45]

I have a 1970 Lotus Elan Plus 2S, previously owned by a rich music producer from Bournemouth which had been on static display for decades, before my ownership about five years ago. It has only done 30,000 miles and I am discovering that one of the issues with such a car is rubber deterioration with modern fuel and fluids. The car has not been started for three months, when started I found total lock on the clutch. The master cylinder had completely seized and whilst it was a bast... to get out, now I know how to do it. A local old fashioned Motor Factor supplied me with a TRW Master Cylinder Kit but advised me that re-assembling without servicing the slave cylinder would be pointless. As there is only one critical seal he has advised me to buy another quite expensive master cylinder kit to use the 5/8s seal in the slave cylinder. Anybody done this before??? Is it the same seal???? I don't need sachets of specialist grease, circlips, just the seal so I can be confident of a functioning system. Any others experiences of same would be useful. If I can be of any help to you the favour will be returned in spades. My first Lotus was UHM 3 - built by Bristol Aviation, an Elite in the early sixties and I know the foibles and parts that Chapman raided from other manufacturers parts bins to make that car and most of the following models.

[mbell]

Having changed my clutch fluid hose at the weekend on a car that has been sat ~20 years, to be promptly met with a leaking slave cylinder I'd follow his advise and rebuild the salve cylinder. I'd change the hose if you haven't as well.

Personally I'd recommend contacting your favorite lotus parts supplier (Sue/Mick Miller is generally a good option) and buy a rebuild kit for the slave cylinder. It might have the same internal seal as the master but you'll need the outer dust seal judging by the state of mine.

[AHM]

You would be better getting the Slave cylinder kit.

Stick with your local man - Give him part number SP2204 - the original slave cylinder is the larger 7/8" one which you can't tell until you take it to bits.

TRW (the current incarnation of Girling/Lucas) parts are worth buying the cheapo ones aren't great.

[graboo45]

Thanks AHM - and MBell for your replies - I will let you know how I go on. I quite often use Christopher Neil - Oakmere Motor Group, Chester for parts, will probably have a word with them today. Thanks again.

[graboo45]

For anyone interested, replacing the clutch master cylinder and connecting same to the pedal seemed to be an impossible chinese puzzle. The clevice pin needing to be engaged in one drilling of the push-rod before achieving clearance with my particular pedal box. Others may well have found a better way, but I eventually was able to complete the chinese puzzle by super-gluing the boss of the pin to a hacksaw blade and managed to wiggle it into position. It would help if you had a smaller head and don't wear glasses, the brake pedal trying to pierce my eye whilst aligning all the above.
Be interested to hear of anyone else's solutions.

[fatboyoz]

Graboo,
For piece of mind and longevity, have both your master and slave cylinders sleeved in stainless steel and then purchase the best kits you can for reassembly. Change the fluid every year ot two and, "Bob's your uncle".
I have no problem with the master cylinder clevice pin refitting. I also wear glasses, but have an exceedingly small head. It wasn't always the case, but since fitting my new dash, and the small spaces invoved, I find I have gone down a couple of hat sizes!!
Regards,
Colin.

For anyone interested, replacing the clutch master cylinder and connecting same to the pedal seemed to be an impossible chinese puzzle. The clevice pin needing to be engaged in one drilling of the push-rod before achieving clearance with my particular pedal box. Others may well have found a better way, but I eventually was able to complete the chinese puzzle by super-gluing the boss of the pin to a hacksaw blade and managed to wiggle it into position. It would help if you had a smaller head and don't wear glasses, the brake pedal trying to pierce my eye whilst aligning all the above.
Be interested to hear of anyone else's solutions.

[billwill]

One trick when working on the pedals etc is to take the drivers seat out. You then have more room to wriggle .