Routing of braided clutch hose

PostPost by: jono » Fri Jun 24, 2011 8:02 pm

Can anyone advise me here please?

I have obtained a Goodridge braided clutch hose from Sue Miller with the 90 degree ends - all very nice.

My problem is where and how to route it - over or under the bellhousing? Also where the right angle bend comes from the slave it does get to around 20mm of the exhaust header and I wonder if this is going to be too close? I have rigged a dural heat shield to protect the underside the the slave and the clutch lever gaiter but not the portion to the front of the cylinder. I should add that the headers are cermaic coated which will help a bit.

If I route the hose under the bellhousing it does pull the angle bend away from the header which improves matters marginally however all things being equal I would rather the hose went over the top of the bellhousing for protection from road debris etc.

I have some foil faced fibreglass heat wrap and was thinking about making a sock and slipping it over the hose and angle where it is close the header - do you think this will be sufficient to protect it?

Any thoughts also on support of the hose - P clips fastened to the B/H bolts?

Experience of others in the matter greatly appreciated. Photos gratiously received :lol:

Cheers

Jon

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PostPost by: pauljones » Fri Jun 24, 2011 10:38 pm

Jon,I shall take some pics tomorrow pm time and post on here so you can see what's on mine, not that it is correct but will give you an idea.

Paul
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PostPost by: innesw » Fri Jun 24, 2011 10:50 pm

I'm also waiting for the answer as I've been avoiding routing this for a while too.

Cheers,
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PostPost by: oldelanman » Sat Jun 25, 2011 7:28 am

If it's any help here's how Ive run mine. I've used rubber lined stainless P clips to support it, one on the engine mount and one on the bellhousing. The elbow on the slave end is pretty close to the exhaust as you say and I did toy with the idea of using a banjo fitting instead of the elbow but I don't think the slave has a large enough or flat enough area for it to seat properly on. I also looked at running the pipe over the bellhousing but it would end up running close to and parallel to the exhaust downpipe in an area which possibly has less cooling airflow so may not be any better.
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Master cylinders 001.jpg and
Clutch pipe routing 003.jpg and
Clutch pipe routing 004.jpg and
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PostPost by: Sea Ranch » Sat Jun 25, 2011 6:05 pm

Roger, does your car ever get driven or is it a "Trailer Queen"?? It looks FANTASTIC and totally clean, dry, free of leaks!!! Amazing. :mrgreen:

(Green with envy) Randy
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PostPost by: oldelanman » Sat Jun 25, 2011 6:20 pm

Sea Ranch wrote:Roger, does your car ever get driven or is it a "Trailer Queen"?? It looks FANTASTIC and totally clean, dry, free of leaks!!! Amazing. :mrgreen:

(Green with envy) Randy


Rebuild ongoing, no need to be envious..........I only photograph the bits that are finished :wink: :oops:
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PostPost by: pauljones » Sat Jun 25, 2011 6:31 pm

Jon,

Thats a better picture than mine....Nice looking car,

Paul
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PostPost by: Sea Ranch » Sat Jun 25, 2011 6:37 pm

Well, Roger, looks like the rebuild is nearing completion. Good for you!
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PostPost by: J.E.S » Sat Jun 25, 2011 9:42 pm

Roger - you seem to have mounted the brake master to the left of the clutch - unusual - or am I missing something? John.
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PostPost by: pauljones » Sat Jun 25, 2011 10:01 pm

J.E.S,

I was thinking the same thing,I will post up a picture just so we can compare,
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PostPost by: oldelanman » Sun Jun 26, 2011 7:41 am

J.E.S wrote:Roger - you seem to have mounted the brake master to the left of the clutch - unusual - or am I missing something? John.


That is normal - at least in a RHD car - the master cylinders are reversed because of the limited space available, the inner wing prevents the brake cylinder sitting directly behind the brake pedal. The clutch pedal act directly on the clutch master cylinder but the brake pedal is offset, the pedal box takes care of it.
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PostPost by: pauljones » Sun Jun 26, 2011 9:24 am

This is the route mine takes,off from the master cylinder is a solid pipe which the flexible bolts to,Then it goes along the rear,behind the engine,and drops down the side of the bell housing to the slave cylinder.

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PostPost by: oldelanman » Sun Jun 26, 2011 10:04 am

Paul, Interesting that you have a length of rigid pipe from the master cylinder - is that because the braided line is too short to follow your routing ? I thought the whole point of the braided line was to connect directly from cylinder to cylinder. Maybe the S4 and +2 are different. PM lists different hoses for Elan and +2, both say "cyl to cyl" so perhaps they are different lengths and you have the shorter one.

Jono, How long is the hose you got from Sue Miller ? I suspect that the one I have may be for a +2 as it does seem a bit longer than it needs to be for the S4. Hadn't realised this possibility until looking at Paul's pictures. Not that it really matters now it's fitted, better that than too short I guess and I'm not about to change it now anyway.

Sorry if this thread is drifting away from +2
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PostPost by: jono » Sun Jun 26, 2011 1:06 pm

All,

Many thanks for all your suggestions - I have followed the Roger method!

Roger - will check the length of the hose when I get back home (currently at work - well you have you pay for these toys somehow :lol: )

Cheers

Jon
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PostPost by: jono » Sun Jun 26, 2011 3:55 pm

Roger,

The + 2 Miller clutch hose is 43 inches in length.

Jon
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