Clutch Mystery

[john.p.clegg]

I'll put my penny on lack of travel by the slave cylinder ( wrong size master/slave,air in the system,sloppy clearances.)or mal-adjustment of the actuating rod..

John

[robertverhey]

My money's on the crankshaft bush or clutch driven plate sticking on dry splines. Hopefully not, as both are gearbox/engine out jobs. So exhaust the other ideas first!

[john.p.clegg]

Sorry Robert but I don't think it has anything to do with the exhaust (unless the pipe is too near the slave cylinder/pipe)..

John

[terryp]

Thanks to all but hopefully its the slave cylinder or hydraulics as I can engage now if I press really really hard.
I've also been searching through the archives and found that someone recommended that it be re bled after a few presses of the pedal.
I didn't do this
Unfortuantely I have to wait until Sunday .....

Terry

[Spyder fan]

Keep bleeding love

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Vzo-EL_62fQ

maybe play this whilst your wife is pumping

[terryp]

Will do!

[alan]

it's good to see at last your baby is up and running keep pumpng

[AHM]

Terry,

My guess is that it is the pushrod adjustment - The diagram in the manual is wrong. Ignore the diagram and set as described - the words are correct.
Ie you need the amount of free play described, rather than between the two points on the diagram, which aren't the contacting surfaces.

Try pumping the clutch twice rather than pressing hard.

[AHM]

If you play that she might think it is for the car... and tell you to sell the bleeding thing!

Judging by your Avatar she may prefer this:
The car that is, not the wife
Start one minute in then look at the avatar.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1c37JayMQ0

(Won't suit all tastes! - Good grief what a racket)

[ricarbo]

If the clutch is dragging (failing to release), and it sounds like it is, here is one easy way to prove it.

With the engine running, try to engage reverse!

If you get a horrible noise of gears crunching, the clutch is not releasing properly. It doesn't do this on the forward gears because of the syncromesh, which blocks engagement unless the gears are at the same speed.
I'd agree with others that incorrect pushrod adjustment is the probable cause, but if a quick couple of pumps of the pedal makes it work, then it needs bleeding, which seems to cause a lot of people difficulties, often needing several attempts. There was a recent thread on this.
I find the easiest way to adjust the pushrod is to disconnect the external return spring, then alter the pushrod length until it is definitely a bit loose, to guarantee full engagement of the clutch and release of the hydraulic pressure to the master cylinder. I use the rod to push the slave cylinder piston fully back, then check it is not touching at the clutch lever. Free to rattle a bit.
Another cause of insufficient movement of the slave cylinder can be wear in the pushrod and clevis pin at the master cylinder.
regards
Richard

[joe7]

We been having the same problem with difficulty getting the trans in gear and all the same issues. We checked everything out but couldn't find a problem. Some time in the recent past there had been an oil leak in the rear of the engine so it went into a shop for repair. They pulled the engine and replaced the rear seal. Since we couldn't find any external problems we pulled the engine this time. After pulling the engine we noticed that the outer edge of the flywheel where the clutch doesn't come in contact with the flywheel was black as was the clutch disc. Apparently the shop didn't clean the flywheel or replace the disc both which were oil soaked. So its time to remove the flywheel for a good cleaning and install a new clutch disc, hopefully problem solved.

[terryp]

Well I managed to get my wife to help this evening and although after bleeding the pedal feels no different the symptoms are getting slightly better, which would indiate to me that the plate is sticking on the splines. Reverse is a little problem and it clonks in.
I can remember putting a smear of grease on the end of the main shaft and on the roller bearing but I can't remember greasing the splines as I have never done this in the past. Of course the car has sat in this assembled state for about 18months , more than enough time for it to stick.
All I can do is what Rohan suggested and drive it a bit and see if it improves
The other problem is I have a few other problems to overcome first!
Thanks to all

Terry
I did read in the archives that some one carefully squirted wd40 in through the clutch arm rubber at the splines and it cured it.

[rgh0]

Adjust the slave cylinder rod so all the slack is removed and no free play in the arm. Then get you wife to depress the clutch while you watch the slave cylinder. If its fully bled the slave cylinder push rod and throw out arm should all start moving as soon as the clutch pedal starts to move. if this is the case and you are still having problems engaging gear when stationary and the clutch fully depressed then the issue is inside somewhere. Reset the specified amount of slack in the slave push rod and drive it a bit to see if it frees up whatever is dragging. if not then it is unfortunately engine out

good luck
Rohan

[terryp]

Thanks Rohan
Lets keep out fingers crossed. But I have to sort the carbs first as its strombergs its running a bit rough!
Cheers
Terry

[lotustastic]

I don't know how difficult the clutch is on the elans to bleed with traditional foot pumping methods (my s3 is still being restored), however my old 75 MGB was impossible to fully bleed with traditional wife foot pumping methods. Because of the location and angle of the slave cyl hose (air would never escape) I HAD to use a power bleeder to get it fully functioning and working. After reading the forums, the b's were notorious for this. Perhaps, this may be adding to the difficulties on your ?lan.

Just a thought to throw in the mix..

David D.