Clutch Not Disengage

[patrics]

Hi Robin,
Correct m/cyl is 5/8 and correct slave is 7/8 . Anyway you shouldn't need to change to a larger m/cyl.

Clutch should be fully working with

Pedal travel 3.5" (91mm)
M/cyl input rod travel 1" (25mm)
Slave cyl travel 0.44" (11mm) I think this travel is restricted to 0.39" (9.8mm) to avoid over stroking the clutch - bolt underneath pedal.

If you get the above then the hydraulic / pedalbox side of things is okay. If not then recheck clearances and bleed system. After that check the clutch fork and pivot.

Is the hose to the slave cylinder still leaking?

Regards
Steve

[JACKJABBA]

Could be you need to bleed the system again. I had the same problem on my +2s. I put a sledge hamer wedged between the clutch pedal and the steering wheel pushing the pedal to the floor and left it for two days. After that the clutch worked great. Had the same problem with the brake master cylinder and the same trick worked for that.

Motor cycle racers tie the brake leaver back to the bars when not in use for the same reason.

I think it was Keith who pointed out that these need to be bench bled as air gets trapped due to the way they are mounted in the pedal box assy.

Regards Carl

[bengalcharlie]

thank you all for your replies to my problem.
the measurements of the rod and pedal travel were especially helpfull and they helped me into making the final decision and that was to replace the master cylinder by a 3/4 cylinder. problem solved and finally a driving car.
the pedal pressure is firm but and not unpleasant.
I think that the reason for not clearing the clutch plate entirely is because I replaced the clutch and relase bearing when I put engine and gearbox together years ago and I think that the clutch plate might be slightly thicker than original.
one problem solved, up to encounter the next one!!

[nigelrbfurness]

Hi All
I've been searching the archive for a solution to a problem I've had a number of times over the years on my Elans, all series - that of the slave cylinder snap ring popping out and allowing the cylinder to slide forwards towards the exhaust manifold thus causing loss of clutch operation. Has anyone come up with a modification or a tip to prevent this happening? Apart from trying to fit a hose clip to add a bit of extra resisitance I can't see a way of preventing this fault occurring. Has anyone tried another slave cylinder - say a Sprite/Midget tye that screws tot he bell housing, obviously with a bit of engineering!

Thanks in advance

Nigel F.

[john.p.clegg]

Nigel
Is the snap ring in the right way,they are pressed out of sheet and one side is slightly chamfered the other square..

John

[billwill]

Maybe the groove in your slave cylinder is no longer nicely rectangular.

[reb53]

Maybe the groove in your slave cylinder is no longer nicely rectangular.

Exactly what I found on mine a few months ago.
Wasn't popping out but looked like it could so remade the groove in the lathe.
Now a bit wider, but much sharper.

Ralph.

[rgh0]

The original snap ring (with no eyes) was thicker than a standard circlip (with eyelets) if you use a normal standard circlip it may push out of the groove due to this. Use of a snap ring is a pain from an access and removal perspective from its lack of eyes and the exhaust being in the way so you see circlips used. I use a double circlip as with a little modification ( or normal wear) so that the groove accommodates that double circlip.

cheers
Rohan

[billwill]

As far as I recall, though the original clip has no eyelets, the ends are cut at a slant,, not directly radial. with the gap being wider on the inside than the outside.

This means that the chisel like ends grip into the pins of a circlip pliers when you stretch it open, with the pliers pins in a radial direction (as opposed to 'along the cylinder' when used eyelet circlips).

I agree though that it is a difficult, tricky operation, and you must wear safety goggles in case the clip breaks or suchlike.

[rgh0]

Hi Bill
Their are special pliers for the snap rings that were originally used on the slave cylinder. They have a small flat blade on the end instead of the round pin ends for circlip pliers. The flat blades engage the chisel ends on the snap ring. These make it easier to remove but still not easy in the cramped location.

cheers
Rohan

[billwill]

Hi Bill
Their are special pliers for the snap rings that were originally used on the slave cylinder. They have a small flat blade on the end instead of the round pin ends for circlip pliers. The flat blades engage the chisel ends on the snap ring. These make it easier to remove but still not easy in the cramped location.

cheers
Rohan

Aye, I may have had some of those ends originally, but they get lost easily.

[StressCraxx]

Hi All
I've been searching the archive for a solution to a problem I've had a number of times over the years on my Elans, all series - that of the slave cylinder snap ring popping out and allowing the cylinder to slide forwards towards the exhaust manifold thus causing loss of clutch operation. Has anyone come up with a modification or a tip to prevent this happening? Apart from trying to fit a hose clip to add a bit of extra resisitance I can't see a way of preventing this fault occurring. Has anyone tried another slave cylinder - say a Sprite/Midget tye that screws tot he bell housing, obviously with a bit of engineering!

Thanks in advance

Nigel F.

Nigel,
I had trouble with this too. Minding the sharp edge of the snap ring goes in the loaded position helped, but left much play in the cylinder sliding in the bell housing fitting. I added a second snap ring in the groove and all is good now, but it takes twice as much swearing to remove the leaky slave!

Regards,
Dan